davebugs

IIR AMC was a large manufacturer of dashboards for the big 3 back in the day. Wonder what Toyoto's recently announced increase to 17% of Mitsu heavy Industries (Subaru) will mean going forward. Dave

Nipper, I must have done something wrong then. I'm middle aged - I survived. And I wonder how anyone survived with all that is now outlawed. Three stooges (don't want kids poking each other in the eyes), lawn mowers have so many 'safety' features and emissions stuff that they are pathetic. Back in those days people actually believed in personal responsibility. Everyone wasn't looking to figure out how they could get some kinda victim label. And then figure out how NOT to work or have any responsibility using that label. This EXACT thing is unfolding now with the mortgage crisis! Folks gambled and lost (0 down, interest only, etc.) and now are 'victims' and OUR money will end up bailing them out. Then the gov't will come along late (as usual) and add a bunch of regulations to try and basically 'create' common sense. This also ties into the personal responsibility thing. Kids actually did stuff outdoors - for fun. Not glued to video games. Kids learned to win AND loose. And how to handle both situations. Yea - they were bad days alright. I'm actuall off to an investment thing to try and learn exactly where we are in this mess with the financials. Investing along with cars are my two main hobbies. Gonna be late. Gotta run. But yea - there was a lot to admire about those days. We're moving forward but I'm not so sure I'd call it 'progress' in many ways. Dave

Glad you figured out which hole was which. Atleast you didn't actually drive it like that. I appologize - GG and I were answering the original post at the same time. Perhaps tomorrow I'll take pics of my ATF 'flush' from 3 drain and fills. I kept a sample of all 3. Frankly I could feel better about how the fluid still looks. I'll try and take a pic tomorrow. The car was a 2006 Impreza with 52k on it and the ATF never serviced. This may be a case of where you are either better off paying for the flush or making a gizmo to do a flush. Dave

And our lives (and wallet) weren't governed by expensive polution control devices. When there was NO plastic under the hood. When there was NO alchohol in the gas (and all the problems it causes). I could go on - as I'm sure most folks could. Yea - those days. I'm middle aged I guess and boy do I miss those days. Able to work on a car without a having a code reader and computer... Bumpers that could cause damage rather then just being damaged... Those days. Life was good.

Could be even dumber and in the tank! Oops - accessable on the shock tower suddenly doesn't look so bad. Before everything went fuel injected it was very easy to add those cheap inline clear filters. Now sometimes its difficult to find a clear filter that can handle the pressure and a lot more of the fuel lines are metal so it's harder to find a home for them. I haven't had this issue on a Subaru yet. VW puts a filter and pump in a little box under the pass rear floor that is a pain to get apart when it all rusts and not convenient access at all. This is on their 3rd generation golf/jetta's and the filter is atleast twice the size of a Subaru fuel filter. Dave

Are you sure that you hit the right hole (sex jokes aside?). Was it on the drivers side hidden by some hoses (assuming that we ARE talking about the auto trans). Have you checked the level at all? Dave

I've had luck using an impact wrench. It's quick enough and they really aren't torque'd that tight. I just hold the can sprocket by hand (watch the fingers) and it only moves maybe 1/2 inch. The impact (air or elec) is much quicker than a wrench and breaks them loose. Perhaps I've just been lucky. I had tried those Sears rubber strap wrenches and a ratchet but that's a 'bad' combo - too much 'give'. Dave

FYI - no biggie I just did a 95 2.2 into a 97 OBW (that originally had a 2.5). I needed to use the AC bracket from the 2.5. So don't be in a hurry to part with that bracket incase the 2.2 AC bracket doesn't work. The 'other' small thing(s) are some vacuum lines and the breather hoses that come off the heads and go into the airbox. Very minor especially if you don't cut the vacuum lines under the intake when you remove the donor motor. Dave

I poked around and looked on Ebay last night for speed bleeders. They are big on Motorcycle listings - not so much for cars. I own 10 vehicles and service others. 10 x 20 = 200. The Motive still makes sense for me even if with the necessary adapters it costs 100. I would like to try the speed bleeders on atleast one vehicle though. What I found so far in my searching the shipping costs as much as the bleeders. Unless I want to make a pilgrimage to Summitt or something. Dave

There are plans to use a week sprayer and a master cylinder cap from the 'Help' rack for probably under 20 bucks. I need to do new and antique vehicles - preferably by myself. If it costs me 100 bucks for tools (one device with 3 specific adapters) that is pretty bullet proof to use I don't have a problem with that. One time on one car and the unit probably pays for itself. BTW some folks never put fluid in the unit - they just use it for air pressure. When I get one I'll probably try that since I need to use some DOT3(Subaru's and others), DOT4(late model VW's), and DOT5(antiques) and they don't play well together. Dave

My cheap rotor place closed at 2pm today. I've had pretty good luck with their 'Quality brand' rotors. Had one bad out of the box one time - other than that they've been fine. Brembo is what Advance was quoting. I just had them on my VW and they didn't hold up as well as I expected. Then again the Mintex pads seperated from the backing on the rears and made a mess of the rotors. FYI no Advance Gold pads listed for the 2006 Impreza. Only problem with working on new cars is that stuff isn't stocked yet like the rotors. Most folks seem to have the pads in stock. I just had the same issue with a 2003 Acura. Back to reading about Motive pressure bleeders and pads. Thanks folks. Dave

Did you buy a generic one or the 0107/1107 that is a direct fit for a Subaru? I need 3 different adapters for my cars. I'm thinking of leaning towards what appears to be 'real caps' rather than the generic things that get clamped on with chains. I plan on ordering this week. Dave

Got a new grinder/cutoff tool today. One of the few tools that I had to borrow occasionally. In the past for rust I've just used the scotch brite small disks on an air drill but they don't really remove solid material. Don't know if I'm skilled enough with a grinder for delicate work like dressing a rotor. I like the idea - just don't know if I could pull that off. Next time I get to work on the car guess I'll find out how this unfolds. Dave

Thanks for the info. Only place open was Advance - Brembo rotors 81.94 front, rear N/A. On the rare occasion that I get rotors cut they are 7.50. Thinking of Bendix, or Wagner, or Contiseal pads. About to start searching about pads now. In the past I have never installed pads without having the rotors/drums cut or replaced. Then again the pads are half the price of one rotor, that along with your comment makes it look like pads only. Then I'll see what happens. When I get them off if they look rougher than they did at a quick glance I'll see if they can cut them and still be legal. Thanks again, Dave

Definately the clutch clips!! Last car I did they were actually out of stock. 5 or 6 bucks that could cause you to pull the motor (or tranny) again! A very wise investment. Dave

I reseal the baffle plate(Ultra Grey) - some folks replace it. I always get the flywheel resurfaced - but that's just me. Apparently the rear main seals don't usually go bad - sometimes I replace it anyway. Folks here that have done more than me will chime in. Good time to evaluate TB, WP, idler pulleys, cam/crank seals, etc assuming that you're pulling the motor. Dave

Mark the old belt before removal and compare it to the new belt to see if the lines are the same. I've used Dayco and Chinese kit and I believe they had the marks. Dayco on 2.2 and 2.5, Chinese on 2.2 Dave

Yea - Type J. I was on the phone having Wal-Mart check after striking out at Advance, Autozone, Pep-boys, and 2 local chains. The kid came back and siad type J and ATF+4, mercron/dexron 3 & 4 was all they had. I accidentally typed type J. Just did it. almost 52k. Dark and bad smelling. First fill 4 wts, second 3 qts, final about 3.5 it appears. I may actually do it again in 1k when the next oil change is due. Now I gotta go research brake pads. Original pads all the way around. Rotors don't look too bad at all. I may actually (for the first time ever) not do anything with the rotors or have them cut. 50 yo lady driver. Don't need anything performance or pricey. Dave

Here's the scan from the owners manual. I use a lot of Wolf's Head products. They used to be the best in my opinion. It's what all the local drillers used to use on their own equipment - and I figure they know oil/lubes. I've used it for years with no issues. They have been sold several times in the past several years. Their website is wolfshead.com. Their info@wolfshead.com email doesn't work and hasn't in some time. If you call you really only getting marketing folks. Subaru is listed on their Universal Synthetic ATF - but just as Subaru - no specific years/tranny's, etc. I'm trying to attach a PDF of the owners manual. Since I can't source the real stuff other than at the dealer (waiting a little here this morning to try pep-boys an dmore local chains) I may try the Wolfs Head Universal. Anyone know if the Suby fluid is Synthetic? Thanks for the input folks. Dave cindy 2006 Impreza tranny fluid.PDF

The manual specifies type - F. I can post the scan. Genuine Subaru Type-HP or IDEMITSU ATF HP Castrol Transmax J Pennzoil ATF-J Can't find any of these and don't really want to pay dealer price on Suby fluid. I'm planning on buying a case to do the GF's 2006 Impreza with 50k on it. Tranny hasn't been serviced yet. It gets it's first set of laser platinum replacement plugs tomorrow. The car is running(and shifting) fine. I'm just trying to take care of it for her. If something goes wrong (basically ever) it could effect lets call it 'the romance factor' All other maintenance has been done by me. I plan on checking the brakes tomorrow as well. Thoughts on acceptable tranny fluid? Advance doesn't stock the Pennzoil J or the Castrol Transmax J. I'm looking at Wolf's head universal fluid. Generally I like to stay away from 'universal' things - fluids included. I believe my local Subaru dealer uses ATF+4 as their bulk supply (they also sell Mopar's). She drives 100 miles per day round trip to work. Really piles on the miles. I did quite a bit of searching and no this IS NOT the 5EAT. Any Subaru tech's or guru's have a comment/suggestion? Dave

It's sticky stuff - I've only done it on Legacy's but often I'm afraid that I break the light. Grab a windshield tool at your local glass or body shop. I posted a pic here on the 'underutulized or favorite tool thread' - something like that. It's probably a couple bucks - plastic thing. They won't scratch the paint like a screw driver when trying to 'unseat' that sealant. I never tried the heat - infact it seems that I'm usually doing this in the cold but the heat and the windshield tool seems like it would make the job a lot easier. Dave

That's certainly one way to do it. Guess AC wasn't an issue. Did you have front end damage or some other reason to remove the front end?

Did you read about the button mentioned early on in this post? I found it by searching here months ago. Actually it may have a link to cars101 as well. Dave

I still think this (or a similar issue) is the problem. It's happened to me. Lets face it - you have spark, air, timing, etc. This is one of the few things (other than a bad ECU) that can cause a car to crap out in a few seconds. Are the injectors still getting signal when it stops running? I just saw this issue on a Toyota that I wouldn't have believed had I not seen it myself. After a few seconds the ECU no longer sent a pulse to the injectors. Now whether the ECU was the problem or reacting to other inputs I don't know. I've also had the 'runs a few seconds' issue with VW's. In that case the injectors are different(mechanical if you will - stamped brass kinda things) and would leak down, put some fuel in the cylinders but when you started the car the injectors were bad and in essence only the 'old' fuel that trickled into the cylinder was all the car could run on. Don't know if a similar thing could happen with Suby injectors. Dave

FYI a used a VW/Audi used O2 sensor that I had laying around and no longer get the P0141 error circuit heater malfunction. Now I have an intermittent different code about the same sensor circuit. Don't know if I guessed wrong on the white wires in the connector. I forget the code (no pen) but it was 14* bank one , sensor 2 circuit malfunction. Looking like I may still end up buying a new Suby one from the dealer. And I thought that I had saved myself 100 bucks. Not much more than my local parts guys or Advance. Used knock sensor solved that problem. Dave