davebugs

I just did this on a 5 speed and did put the flywheel on the 2.2 off of the 2.5. BTW the only 'interesting' thing about the swap was some vacuum lines and breather lines that goto the heads. And you loose the mounting points for the PS lines as referenced here at USMB - no biggie. The rest was remarkably uneventful. Off the 2.5 I used the AC bracket, AC compressor, alternator, PS pump, flywheel. Dave

FIRST STEP - ROLL DOWN WINDOW! My remote that I bought here and tried to program didn't work. When the car cycles the 3 times it leaves the doors locked. If the only key is in the car (from you turning the ignition to the on position) you're pretty much screwed. BTW if it takes you 2 days to get a key made the battery will be dead. Dave

Typically try and start the car. Unlock and relock the door with the key. On mine I had to dig for the button up under the dash basically directly up under the steering column that is a hidden black button wrapped up in some other wires. That's the reset button - atleast it is on a 97 OBW. I didn't see where you stated what car you are talking about - that might help. Dave

PB and a screwdriver and/or pry bar. Hit it many places - move it around a bit. Don't beat up the case in one or 2 spots. FYI I apply anti-sieze to the tranny surface before bolting the engine back up to it. If I ever have to take it out again atleast the 'seperation issue' should be minimized. Dave

The inside of both front tires are worn. Didn't notice it having classic alignment symptoms in the 20 miles of 2 lane highway that I drove it. Now that I have a few miles on it I'll be rotating the tires and checking the brakes. Also the tierods since a poster recommended that as well. I had to pull this car out to put rear brakes on my personal car last night so that it could get inspected today. Thanks for the suggestions. Still looking for how to resolve rear O2 sensor issue. Anyone have success with generic 3 wire O2 sensor in the rear? If so what brand? Dave

Local parts stores just shy of 100 bucks. Bosch I think at both of them (one a local, the other Advance). Dealer - Wants to know my shoe size, SS#, life history. I often think these folks take themselves a bit too seriousely - especially since I usually supply the Vin # and sometimes still get the incorrect parts anyway. Looking on Ebay and oxygensensor.com. I have time to order one. It's a 3 wire and I'm a bit concerned about getting the old one out. Took the car for it's first voyage today after the swap. Glad the rotors got better as I drove it. Other than the O2 sensor all seems well. I'm having something that seems kinda like torque bind but it may be struts or alignment. It rained here today off and on. When turning sharply and going very slow it makes a sound in the front end and sounds like it's chewing off the tires. Turning radius doesn't seem to be effected(like I've experienced with torgue bind in an auto). Guess I'll know more on a drier day. Access is relatively easy to the wires so I may try the generic if the cost is significantly different. 35 and 55 so far. The 65 is a generic Walker from oxygensensors.com, the 35 from carpartswholesale on Ebay. Anyone dealt with either of these places? Dave

This sounds like the second sensor? P0141 O2 sensor heater malfunction (bank 1 sensor 2). I was thinking the front one right at the Y before the first cat since I had it unplugged. Sounds like this one is the second one after the cats I assume? I'll look for it tomorrow. Traditionally will a generic one work here? Thinking of both availibility and cost. Why do they call these things heater circuits? Rather than just O2 sensors? Dave

I have a knock sensor off a junk motor here with no cracks. That connector and how it 'clips' to the block are in a bad place. Glad I had a junk motor to look at and swipe the knock sensor from. I figure I'll let it cool down and work on it again tomorrow and re-check the coolant. The generic O2 sensors o.k.? I hit it with some PB Blaster while it was hot this evening. Sure wish I would have known that it needed replaced while the exhaust was down. For than matter I have a drawer full of O2 sensors from cars I've scrapped (not known good) but the Suby ones usually don't like to part with the converters. I have lots of Saturns and some VW's and misc others. I just doubt that I have the patience to try any of them. I'll probably still try the sea-foam depending on how many neighbors are home. Either that or wait until dark tomorrow. I'll see if I can get the O2 sensor loose and price new ones. That will have a direct bearing on my first choice of remedy. Dave

O.K. another mental lapse or two. I hadn't tightened up the 'jamb' nut on the tensioner for the AC belt and hadn't installed (and thus tensioned) the alternator belt so the alternator was the whole way down and hitting the AC belt. All done with the swap. 2 codes. I didn't realize that I'd have to play with vacuum lines and such. Wasn't bad other than a trip to get the small vacuum line splice things. Does having the airbox stuff from the 2.2 make this part easier? Used an Ebay kit for TB and idler pulleys. Felpro(mexican) front crank, and federal Mogul (I think) cam seals. 2 codes are knock sensor - which does have a small split and I forgot to change while the engine was out. BTW atleast the connector end on the 2.2 is different than the 2.5 code was P035. Other one I'm getting sometimes on the 97 OB with the 2.5 and now this one with the 2.2. P0141 O2 sensor - the plug looks solidly plugged in. I bought this car dead so who knows. I've had excellent luck in the past with the seafoam vacuum line thing. I've used the brake booster in the past (since cleaning the cylinders wasn't my goal) and it's worked fine. Anyone have a 'better' more 'central' vacuum line to use to run the sea foam thru all 4 cylinders more evenly? Car has 110k. What is the normal life expectancy of these? I also think this is the one that folks recommend the Subaru one rather than generic? Dave

FYI my 97 OBW threw the same codes today. I had swapped coil packs and didn't have the problem for a little while. Not a known good coil pack but the car is running. Seems to me if Diampond coil packs were experiencing this as a common problem we'd see it show up here at USMB. It happened decelerating from probably 70 mph on the interstate - same as last time. I cleared the code, and later on a 2 lane road ran the RPM's up to 4k in 4th gear and decelerated to try and get the code again but didn't. I haven't messed with the NSS or grounds yet. So I'm interested in following your progress. Either that or I can't go over about 70mph and allow the car to decellerate. Dave

The 'old' Honda was about a 92 Accord Auto. The Acura is a 2003 TL auto. Someday I'll get to check the manual on the Acura. Perhaps a Honda guy will chime in. I really don't do many Honda's and only the one Acura. And I've never had to do anything with the auto trans on any of them.

No matter what you do I'd do the TB, idler pulleys, waterpump, etc while the engine is out and easy access. Probably crank and cam seals as well. I've done one 2.5 HG job and am about done with my first 2.2 conversion. The parts/gaskets, getting the heads checked, etc starts to add up fast on the 2.5. I balance that with keeping the original engine. Dave

Yep. Regular straight weight oil I forget if it's 20, 30, or 40 weight. I've seen it before in Honda's from the early or mid 90's auto trans. Why honda's don't need the high detergent normal ATF I don't know. I don't even know if it's all the models. I do know that it's about time some engineer(s) designed a tranny that's easy to check. BTW on my 2001 VW Golf it's kinda like the old bugs transaxles. No dipstick. Get it up to temp, remove the plug out of the bottom of the tranny and when a steady stream runs out it's full. No kidding - that's the only way to check it. It takes a very special fluid though. You gotta make (or buy) a gizmo that looks like a hook and add some tubing to it in order to fill the tranny thru this hole in the bottom of the tranny oil pan. Probably why they call it 'lifetime' tranny fluid. But I don't treat it as lifetime. Besides I expect my TDI to go 300 or 400k and that's a lot of miles on a fluid. So far 2 changes in 150k. Dave

FYI I use a 16 oz styrofoam cup. It has a line half way up it for 8 oz. It's so much easier to read dirty fluid. I have a friend with an Acura. Their car can be checked cold and car not running - just like a normal oil check. Also I do believe that it takes regular motor oil in the trans - but a straight weight I believe. Perhaps that technology can make itself to the other Japanese manufacturers - I'd like to see it in American cars as well. They must have figured out how to tell how much is in the torque converter. Very nice. It's the only car so far that I've run across like this. This has to lead to a more proper operating level.

FYI my local parts store has Wix filters for under 10 bucks. I think Wix is a quality brand and at 1/3 the price that's usually what I use. I'm about to do this on my GF's 2006 Impreza with 50k and I actually may leave the filter on. I'm still trying to determine which fluid to use. I hope to look at her owners manual again tonight. I didn't get a real 'solid' answer from the dealer on which ATF. Dave

o.k. I'm almost done. I replaced a 97 2.5 manual with a 95 2.2 auto. Now the AC belt rubs the alternator, and it looks like the AC tensioner pulley probably rubs the TB cover. I happen to have a 97 2.2 auto crank pulley here and it has the same offset as the 97 2.5. I used from the 2.5 the AC compressor, the AC bracket, the alternator, the PS pump. I'm almost done and all has gone pretty smoothly until now! I guess the real question is whether a 95 Legacy 2.2 auto crank pulley has the same offset as a 97 2.2 Impreza 2.2 auto pulley (and thus the same as a 97 2.5 manual crank pulley). I locktited the pulley on so I'd rather not remove it unless the odds are pretty good that it's the problem. I had looked for a thread about this swap and came up with little - other than it's simple and get a 95 due to the dual port exhaust. I also sent a PM to someone who has done these in the past but I'm trying to get this wrapped up today. Dave

Since he did it several times and the dealer one time - that's why I didn't include the filter in my list of open possibilities. I still have trouble believeing it's a filter/mating problem. Of course I haven't seen the car. Dave

Rev it up when it's on the rack. Don't let it just idle. Two guesses would be that it's pressure related - or it's leaking somewhere else and being blown back to the filter and running down it since it's the low point. I think they make 'trace' stuff for oil that then you look for with a black light. Never used the method but it may be worth it to figure out the source. Dave

I'd bet that it's a 'different' leak like Porc said. Hard to believe that the dealer wouldn't point out all the potential expensive repairs (compared to an oil change) to correct the problem. Could be one of the seals or the PS pump then sometimes it runs down behind timing cover. If this is the case the fluid will be red (and I assume that you'd know that you were adding PS fluid). Are you actually seeing the oil on the bottom of the filter? Or just the bottom of the motor? Just suggestions. If the mounting surface looks good it can't be 4 filters. And these cars are known for other leaking issues. Dave

Yep, one dolly per motor or tranny. I gotta tell ya it's awesome. When they get in the way (and they always do) it's great to just push and pull them around without getting out the cherry picker, or setting down what's already on the cherry picker, etc. For instance last night. I'm doing my first 2.2 inplace of a 2.5 swap. The 2.5 in on the engine stand, the 2.2 is dangling from the cherry picker. The 'new' 2.2 they had screwed up the hockey puck thing above the EGR. Broke off a few of the lines. I have a junk 97 2.2 motor under a workbench. Of course the piece that I needed was in the back. I just pulled it right out, removed the part, and pushed it back. Certainly was better than doing some sort of mexican hat dance with the cherry picker. I usually pay 15 bucks at Harbor Friegh and Tractor Supply. Sometimes up to 20 bucks. From time to time I can get round ones that stack well when empty for 20 bucks. They really make life easy. If I get a chance I'll take a few pics. I also use them for stacks of tires that always seem to be in my way (the round ones work best for this). I had just bought some tiny ones at HF around New Years for my old VW engines - they are like 12" x 12". I just bought a used heavy shelving unit on wheels that I've just put most of the tires on. Some folks think the furniture dollies are a luxury. Since things always seem to be in my way or unaccessable I see them as a necessity. Keeps things simple - as it did last night when I needed this part. A great time saver. I'll be in the garage today working on this swap - I'll try and remember to take the camera and take a few pics. Dave

The receiver carrier may be better than a trailer. Those little trailers really bounce around a lot - just like a tow dolly. That can't be very good for whatever is strapped to them. If in the vehicle isn't the choice I'd say the receiver carrier would be the ticket. Even without the price difference between that and a trailer. Lets put it this way. I'll borrow a truck if I need to rather than use my trailer to haul a motor. I don't always like to haul them inside my Astro van. BTW I set motors - especially those I'm hauling in the Astro - in a cement mixing tub that I get at a hardware store or lumber yard. In the case of a Suby motor it also helps keep it upright better than a tire for me it seems. For like 10 bucks it's re-usable and sure beats trying to get oil, grease, and coolant out of the van. I actually put motors on furniture dollies in the garage and often have a cement tub on top of them. BTW I usually get the furniture dollies at Harbor Freight or tractor supply. Sure beats lifting motors (manually or mechanically) all the time when they need moved in the garage. Dave

I was gonna try these steps - depending on how bad mine was. I couldn't believe that there was no aftermarket part available since they are a common and expensive replacement part. Perhaps due to liability issues? Anyway I have a radiator shop that does 'redcoat' of gas tanks. I have them do my antiques when I have the gas tanks out. If it's pin holes this may work - atleast for a while. The other possibility was an independent muffler shop that can bend pipe. Perhaps have them bend, then weld the piece in - off the vehicle of course. For this it would almost take a home made jig or another good filler tube. I was shocked to find no good solutions here at USMB as well. Dave

Remove the plastic at the bottom and see what you have left of the filler tube. You may want to run the RR up on ramps and climb under. That or remove the wheel. I kinda like things up as high as possible so that I can see under them. The filler tube will be shot at the lowest point. I lucked out and found one at a junkyard recently off a 96 OBW and it still cost me 50 bucks. It is in great shape though. I sold the car before I had installed this filler tube. A threw it on the shelf for the next Suby that has this common, costly problem. Dave

GG, I had seen your 'needle grease' procedure some time ago and aquired the needle fitting. I have a few roller's laying around but haven't actually tried it yet. The last motor I did was a 2.5 and I didn't want it to be a guinea pig after the work and money that went into it. I was thinking of one of these kits mostly because of the rollers. I can't buy the rollers for near what they want for the whole kit. My quotes are running about twice as much just for the rollers as this whole kit is. Waper pumps don't seem to be any great deal. I will be installing a non-interference 2.2 - from a 95 Auto. Guess I'll give it a whirl. Thanks folks for the feedback. Dave

Many folks use these in EJ's? I'll be installing a used motor (my first 2.2 for a 2.5 swap) this week. I was thinking of one of those kits mostly due to the rollers. I can get pretty good prices on TB's and WP's locally. If I order it tonight or in the morning it should be here about the time I need it - I hope. For a 95 2.2 - the 83.95 kit - TB and rollers. IIR I pay 30-35 for a Dayco TB for a 2.2 and about 50 for a new WP. But rollers that I can source locally are expensive. At the dealer or Advance. My local guys don't have a listing. How long would you trust this TB/roller setup? Anyone have the nerve to install one of these kits on their own 2.5? Thanks, Dave