davebugs

Uneventful update. I changed the oil in this car a few weeks ago. Got that 20w50 out and put some 5w30 in. It's now gone over 3k mile (more like 4k) and no more issues. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks for all the suggestions when we were in the debugging process. I still don't know what the cause was. I did put the swapped out coil pack on another car which I sold shortly thereafter. If that was the problem I'll never know. Dave

I have a 'sophisticated VW/Audi' setup for my laptop. This also includes ODBII. I have lots of other stuff on my laptop so it doesn't go out in the cold. When chasing a cylinder 3&4 misfire this spring I broke down and got a cheapie for 50 bucks on Ebay (with shipping). The same yellow one at the auto parts & Sears for 75-80. You have to look up the code in the book, or on your computer(they give you a CD). It is small enough to fit into the pocket of a coat which I found nice. The slightly better(and more expensive) readers won't fit in my coat pocket. Typically I'm looking for more of a possible explanation of a cause and troubleshooting that the readers seem to provide so I end up on the web anyways either here, Google, Endwrench, wherever. I needed the expensive VW one for my TDI. I like my cheapie. Dave

I wish the whole auto industry would standardize the style - and thus release method of ALL wiring clips. Would make too much sense I know. But its almost always the most frustrating part of every project that I do. If they were all the same even challanged folks like myself would catch on eventually. BTW I swapped coil packs (I'm having this same issue on a 97 OB) and did 150 mile trip yesterday in the rain with no codes. Way too soon to say that it solved the problem. I did have trouble with the clip on the coil packs though. Dave

My favorite method is to pour the seafoam in the plastic top of an aerosol can so that I can see how much I have, how much it's sucking up, etc. It's pretty darn hard to look into the can when you've got a hose in it. Dave

Doesn't have to have 'secret' ingredients. It has worked well for me especially in Suby's. Particularly O2 sensors. BTW IPA is also drygas. Dave

Here's a similar writeup that I found here about doing a 97 OB. This along with some other articles are what I used. http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/Head_gasket_replacement.html I didn't need to remove the starter when I pulled my 2.5 (but it's a manual transmission if that makes a difference). Just unbolted PS pump, AC Compressor and bungie out of the way. I also Bundie'd the hood to the roof rack. There is also a link here for the FSM somewhere. If you can't find it (or it's no longer here) PM me and give me an email that will hold 10MB or so. I also followed an excellent Endwrench writeup but I think that was for the HG part of the job. Other than exhaust manifold bolts (rusty) and that lower drivers nut(access) it's not bad at all. Dave

I may be chasing the exact same problem on the exact same car. The car doesn't get used much. New NGK plugs, new Subaru wires, coil pack was next. Thanks for the heads up. Dave

I'm a big anti-sieze guy. Comes from all those old VW Beetles that I have. The whole dis-similar metals thing. No anti-seize is just like over tightening oil filters and oil plugs to me. No reason for it. Consensus is change them at 50k or so and anit-seize than another 50-75k? Dave

I just got NGK laser platinum plugs FR5AP-11 for my GF's 2006 Impreza 2.5 today. That's what the dealer's computer said her car needed. They were under 8 bucks each. I'll have to figure out just what 'laser' has to do with it. On the dealer's computer it says they are to be changed every 30k. Seems awful frequent for a platinum plug. Her car is pushing 50k. Not looking like a real fun job. I may wait on warmer weather. I've used some NGK Iridium plugs on other cars. Remember when plugs were cheap and often easy to replace? Dave

Dogbone. Don't quite understand why the engine comes out o.k. without it unbolted but won't go back in until you unbolt it and adjust the jack under the tranny. I was stubborn at first. But that was the cure for me. Dave

To clean the reservoir. Rocks/gravel and I have a favorite cleaner called Blaster that I buy by the gallon at the parts store. I don't think it's a national brand. Typically Cascade gel works well. Learned it from a rediator guy. Works better than a lot of commercial radiator flush products. Some cars you add it to the water and drive for a day or so before a flush and fill. My bottle of Cascade gel is used only for cars (actually it works pretty well in ceramic shower stalls too). So make sure you shake it up first. The gravel works just like when you use it to remove rust in a gas tank. My overflow tank had a factory pin hole. When you're shaking put your finger over it or you'll get wet. Dave

If the PS pump is leaking I'd make sure I fixed it. Otherwise that PS fluid seems to find it's way into the timing belt cover. I don't know how/if it would get on the belt but I wouldn't want to take the chance. I just did a 2.5 where the PS pump leaked (the seal in the back) and had the effect of some PS fluid setting on top of the engine and some finding it's way down the front of the motor. Other than that I don't know if the gasket would be such a big deal. Dave

A little late but - Make SURE that you have done the timing belt on that 1.8 turbo!! The price of that head and/or a used motor will make the Subaru 2.5 look cheap. I've never swapped a 1.8 Turbo but there doesn't seem to be a lot of room in there. I just passed on buying a nice 99 Passat GLS on tuesday. VWoA list on rebuilt head - 2,150. Another 1,110 list in gaskets, tensioners, etc. A used motor (minus turbo) starts at about 2k. If the belt brakes you need atleast a head. Usually they are pretty much unfixable. Cheapest (and luckiest) head fix that I know of was 750 just to rework the head with some new valves, etc. They are apparently quite tricky to repair - much more so than the 'normal' head. I've always stayed away from them. VW's and wheel bearings. Don't know why but often a problem. Window regulators are expensive - make sure they are lubed well. There were some recall's on some MAF's during that era - check with the dealer. The VW folks seem to hate K&N's and blame them for the MAF issues. In reality it appears that the MAF is wimpy on it's own. I had mine replaced at the dealer (out of pocket) since the car will still under a 10yr/100k powertrain warranty. Luckily cause it's about the only thing I've ever had the dealer do. I found out about the MAF recall on the web and had already filed my claim and had my check before I received the 'official' notice of the recall. After that I ran a K&N for about 120k until I ruined it cleaning it and just went back to OEM style air filter. If it's an auto you already the realize that the 'geniuses' didn't engineer a dipstick. It's kinda like the old beetles - basically you have to make sure it's up to temp and take a plug out and see if any runs out - genius! Dave

There are 2 different diameter cam cap bolts. The ones up front closest the pulley are much smaller in diameter - and take much less torque. You'll need to know which one you need. FYI on each cam it takes 2 of the skinny bolts and 4 of the larger bolts that are under the valve cover. Dave

Gotta wonder if the tech that had the heads sent out still works there. I'm not the most observant guy but those chunks would be hard to miss. Dave

Hey Skip. I have one of each here. A 97 2.5 and a 95 Legacy 2.2. I can look tomorrow. I do think it's basically under the intake for #3 as has been posted. To give you some idea I think I forgot to replug it back into the T after removing it to place the temperature sensor (for the dash) sensor spade terminal back on - I needed a little more room. I think it's just towards the firewall from the temp sensor. Then again - my memory isn't always so good - but you knew that. If you wanna stop by and swap stuff I can make sure both cars are here. We can clear the codes and see what happens. Dave

So I can't follow dotted lines. You are correct it is #12. For some reason I was seeing that as a dirrerent assembly and not the back of the pump. Anyone ever try some RTV or something else they have on hand? That entire rebuild kit looked like 20 bucks. Wonder how much this one gasket is (if it's available) and still whether the kit or a used one makes the most sense? I bought a used on efor how. Dave

Porc, Thanks for the better pic. On the backside there are two #7's. I'd guess that it's the larger O ring (of the 2 #7's) that's leaking on mine. Perhaps that's the common failure point. Dave

I have one that is leaking - but without dis-assembly it looks more like a gasket on the back of the pump (assuming that the pulley is on the front of the pump). I didn't see anything in the blow-up with this gasket. I bought a used one for 25.00 that doesn't look like a leaker. If I get around to it I'll tear it apart to see if I can tell what the wimpy part was. I inquired last time I was at the dealer about a gasket for the back. Parts guy said they really just started installing used ones most of the time (as compared to a new/rebuild from Subaru I suppose). Dave

Yea. I buy some for friends and family. Some I resell. The car with the bad tube is a Silver 95 Legacy sedan, auto, 195k that I bought at auction. Cool canary yellow seat covers. Ran home 30 miles just fine. When I put gas in it I almost got my feet wet. Inspected, excellent tires, rust the usual places (rear wheel wells) but also bottom of doors, etc. Asking 1,100. If I make a couple bucks and I learn something I'm happy. I get lots of cars for high school kids, college kids, better mileage for commuting for friends that drive pick-ups, etc. Usually 2-5k but sometimes cheapies. Dave

Anyone aware of an aftermarket source for these filler tubes? They seem a bit pricey. I did some online searching but didn't come up with anything other than the usual on-line subaru parts folks. Wonder how bad the liability would be? I'm almost thinking of having a muffler shop see if they can bend one up using the good one as a pattern. The top where the gas cap goes would need welded on - they seem to rust behind the plastic shield at the bottom of the bend. I was very happy that I found one in great condition at the last yard that I checked. If it hadn't been on the yard buggy that had just died it would have been gone as well. I hate putting a 100.00+ part on a car only worth 1k. Dave

I'd be willing to bet that Skip has it right. Those filler tubes are a well known problem. And an expensive little bugger. I was lucky and found an excellent one at a junk yard that I need to replace on a 95 Legacy. I've removed the one at the junk yard but haven't replaced the one on the 95. This one is bad. Really swiss cheese - no hopes of repair. Remove the wheel and look - behind that plastic shield odds are good that nastyness awaits. My girlfriends 96 Impreza had the same issue. Dave

I've had this issue as well. I gave up on pickle forks some time ago. If smacking the LCA with a sledge doesn't work I goto Advance and get their loaner tool set for 'front end service' I think it is. Pushing 100 bucks - you get your money back when you return it. There is a tie rod seperator in there that is what I think I use (not the ball joint seperator). Sometimes you have to beat down or grind a little on the LCA where the metal seam is on the side to get the tool on. Works like a charm. Really loud when these stubborn guys pop. My ears ring like a gunshot went off. Just another thought. Dave

Just a thought. I recently needed to replace the oil pan on a '94. You can see Skip's writeup on ' The Mysterious Legacy from 'ell'. The bolts(that I believe may also take a phillips) in the back - above the cross member were very rusted. I don't think I would have even gotten them out if the engine were in the car. And I doubt they could even be drilled out if they broke off in the car. If the underside is rusty enough to need the pan replaced I would suggest that these bolts may be an issue. I'd examine them closely before beginning. Dave

A small update. I talked with him yesterday. An accessory belt was loose and squealing so they tightened it. It's looking like the PS noise was just the belt - that would be nice. Other than the fact that when installing a stereo they must have cut the dash light wire all seems well. No more weirdness's since when we were going to the notary. Still has 20w50 in it and I'm gonna try and get the car, service it, look around at Skip and I's work, get some 5w30 in there, etc. Anything of note I'll post it here. Dave