davebugs

FYI I bought a Suby 2.2 that had a spiffy fresh rebuilt alternator on it. Aluminum and some green, brand new stickers. It was bad and noisy - Worldwide. I wondered who sold that brand. I think I kept it for kicks. It was only worth less than 5 bucks as a core for scrap. I had never seen a Worldwide one before - atleast not so spanking new that it was easy to tell what brand it was. I've never torn one apart and this one may be my guinea pig. Dave

I think you're ok on the tranny fluid. The Brake fluid I think there would be a problem with. DOT 5 you need to replace the whole system - it's not compatable with anything else. I don't know how DOT 4 plays with DOT 3 - but I don't think I'd mix them either. I'd research the brake fluid before assuming that it's backwards compatable. Dave

PM sent

I use easily a couple dozen a year. A dozen just for the GF's 2006 Impreza - she travels 100mi round trip to work a day. If I could get a deal on 50 or something I'd go for it. I know most people re-use them or never use them but I like a fresh one with every change if possible. I'd like to find a source for my VW's as well. I haven't looked in a while - perhaps tonight is Google night. I just thought that perhaps you had turned up a good source on your quest. Dave

I'm looking for a good crush washer source. I buy them 1/2 doz or dozen at a time at Subaru. Oddly enough Subaru and Volvo both seem to have the largest oil plugs and they are the same size. The 2 packs at the retail auto parts are basically the same price per washer. I still pay nearly a dollar each I think(I'm due to repurchase). I'd gladly buy more at a time for a significant savings. If you find a source please post it here and/or PM me. I'd even settle for soft aluminum or copper flat washers. The copper assortments don't have one that large in them. One old Subaru guy said that they used to get them from their supplier that supplied key blanks years ago. My local dealer says that the shims for setting valves are a special order item. I gotta believe the crush washer you're looking for has to be the same situation. The guys in the garage must have their own stash to be able to do their work. Now how you could find out if the folks in the garage have any and who would get the money may get a bit sticky. Thanks, Dave

FYI there are some kinda unique(ugly) Type 3 Ghia's - pretty valuable. The split windshield buses basically were all 6 volt and atleast most had reduction boxes on the rear axles. Starting in 68 the windshield is one piece, they are 12 volt and what are often referred to as refrigerator buses or sometimes bay window buses. They look like an old refrig layed on it's back. I have basically one of each here. Actually the 62 is something called a single cab pickup. 6 volt, reduction axles, 1200 cc I think(I forget). 3 tailgates - one on each side and a rear tailgate. Kinda cool and a bit rare. BTW Corvair swaps with a Kennedy adapter used to be the standard. Still air cooled so that made things a bit easier. Dave

Type 1's are beetles, and most Ghia's.

Update: Got 2 new bolts form the dealer. Torqued those front bolts to 7 lbs (a little light but I was paranoid). After reading another thread here I loosened up the front bolts that were at 14 and made them 7 as well. Almost done with this job. Having trouble getting the TB lined up exactly. The one that I took off wasn't exact either. Just can't figure out where to compromise if I have to. I printed the TB section of the FSM last night and will try again today. Then it's back into the car - hopefully while it's still warm here. Thanks for the assistance. Dave

The site has been up long enough that I did find a few other threads about this. Thanks for the responses. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83056&highlight=torque+spec http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53284&highlight=torque+spec

That would be appreciated. I thought that you could find more info on the other site on the use. Dave

Wow - math error already. I was dividing by 16 instead of 12 for some reason. I guess sometimes the metric system actually makes more sense. My torque wrench goes from 5 lbs to 80 or 90 (I forget). After the first bolt snapped I did all the remaining bolts to 8 lbs before resetting the wrench to 14.5. If I set it to 7.5 (cause I'm paranoid) or 8 I think I'll be o.k. I've recently had practice with EZ outs - earlier tonight. I'd still like to know if I'm mis-reading the FSM or if there is a better torque guide. I understand it has the wrong torque for the crank bolt but I haven't looked for that lately. Dave

Thanks for the replies. Where did you find the torque spec's? I may double check the valve cover spec's. The way I read the FSM it says 14.5 lbs for the cam cap bolts. I'll have to do some math to figure out if my torque wrench will go that low - like 6 lbs? Otherwise I guess 'snug' will have to do. You're suggesting that much lighter setting for all the cam cap bolts or just the front ones? Yea - I use assembly lube - Permatex I think. Kinda red/maroon. Comes in a little bottle with a popup spout. In a jamb before I've used Lucas oil treatment or years ago STP. Something a little thicker than oil so that it doesn't run off but will be dissolved by the oil. I always do an oil change pretty quickly after having a engine's internals exposed. Sometimes it's tough keeping gasket surfaces clean if you use regular oil until you get everything installed(gaskets). The only other information that I may be able to add is that the garage was 45-50 degrees. It is January in Pittsburgh. I was taking advantage of this summer like weather. Until this setback. Dave

Here’s the deal. I’m re-assembling a 97 2.5 DOHC after having the heads done as part of fixing the head gaskets. My first Subaru Internal experience. A couple of questions. I’ve been following the FSM from a link here at USMB. I’ve broken TWO cam cap bolts. Both the ‘front’ ones that go over the cam seal. The FSM the way I read it has 14.5 ft lbs for all cam cap bolts. All the other ‘internal’ cam cap bolts are larger diameter. Are these one use bolts? Do you buy new bolts? Do you torque to something other than 14.5 ft lbs? Seemed like original HG’s at 183k There seemed to be some RTV (actually like ultra grey) in the corners by the front cam cap. Since there is no gasket there do you folks put a light coat on the front cam cap before bolting it down? I see that this fella did http://home.comcast.net/%7Eskipnospam/Head_gasket_replacement.html This has been another source that luckily I had bookmarked and was able to refer to. Do you place any assembly lube on the camshaft seal on either the inside or outside? Mine look o.k. so I may re-use them even though I did pick up new ones. Thoughts? Do you give the lifter springs a shot of oil before placing assembly lube on the valve caps (don’t know what else to call the things that cover the valves that have the shims in them)? It’s been a little difficult doing research with the reliability issues here at USMB. I apologize if this has been covered. Can someone help or point me to a thread or threads with this level of detail? I’ve been using the FSM section on head replacement mostly. I have it downloaded. I’ve been mostly unable to look for real world documented experiences here – which I find even more worthwhile. Any other pointers on these matters – or surprises yet to come with simple things like valve covers would be appreciated. I do know that I will install the plug wires before putting this puppy back into the car. Anyway to check the valve clearance without the TB on? Forgot to check them before dis-assembly. No known issues - just seems like the time to check them. Thanks, Dave

At the risk of cross-polination. Visit TDICLUB.com. Lots of folks over there use them. Most of those cars take dot 4 brake fluid. There appear to be advantages to pressure - versus suction bleeding if you're doing it yourself. I have not purchased one yet - but plan on doing so in the next year. So I'll be following your feedback. Dave

Cool - thanks guys. I hope to get back to this tomorrow - before the next holiday and crappy weather. Never did a TB on the 2.5 but it's marked well and I took some pics before dis-assembly. I also have the electronic version of the FSM from a link from USMB. Lots of good info here. I just sometimes have difficulties finding it. I tried searching before starting this thread tonight. Figuring some folks may do the assembly this way on purpose. Dave

The pistons are all roughly in the middle of the stroke. None within several inches of the end of the bore. Do I need to align using the crank? And I would assume to the usual notch as in when doing a timing belt if I do need to align using the crank? I wasn't going to put the pulley's on but just pay attention to the lobes. Putting the pulley's on may make that easier. Those cams were pretty darn tight at the front of the motor when being removed. Thanks, Dave

o.k. - so I'm not always the sharpest knife in the drawer. An observation. The car has 183k. Seemed like original HG's. On the side that was leaking (both cylinders) it actually seemed like the gasket wore a ring into the head enough to catch a finger nail in. I had both heads cut, steamed, etc. When the heads came back I had a friend with a spiffy Snap-on torque wrench come over for the mexican hat dance that is installing the heads on a Suby. Being in a hurry we installed the heads - with valves and spark plugs - onto the motor. I looked at it and figured that there would be no interference with the pistons so we torqued then down. They heads are both installed on the motor. Is there a problem with installing the buckets(with shims - that I marked before removal) and Cams when the head is on the motor? I realize it's not SOP - but am I screwed? If nothing else I can certainly see the cam lobes and make sure there isn't any interference between the valves on a given cylinder. A USMB member who shall remain nameless - atleast for now - was here for the dis-assembly. He's thinking that perhaps I'm screwed on the re-assembly. While not SOP I'm not sure if I really have a problem. Anyone done it this way before? I figure it's not much worse than adjusting the valves(shims) and that theoretically can be done on the car. There is no access needed to the valve side of the head for assembly it would seem. What am I missing and what should I be aware of on my first Suby head job? Other than the above I'm following the specs from the 97 FSM. Thanks, Dave

I typically use Purolator or Wix fuel filters. Never had a problem. Oil and air usually OEM first choice, then Purolator or Wix - depending on where I'm going to get parts. Dave

My daily driver is a Diesel VW. I don't think VW offers any diesel AWD in the US. What they call 4motion. Just imagine that torque tied to AWD. Along with mileage, dependability, and longevity. Dave

Lucas Power Steering. I'm telling you that I've had tremendous luck particularly with Sub's with it.

I'm attempting to post my first pictures to the forum. They are of the new HG's that I just picked up for my 97 OB 2.5. Still in the wrapper with the Subaru Part #'s. Hope this works. Dave

Drygas (Isapropyl alchohol) has a lot of weird uses. Never tried it for this but if you have any around it may be worth it. It's excellent to clean wipers, paint before double faced body tape, etc.

An abstract thought. On my old VW's and a Honda Accord or two I've had this happen. The Rubber brake line 'collapses' internally. Outside it looks fine. What happens is when there is high pressure(brake depressed) it works o.k. Problem is when the pedal is released and the pressure is less and the fluid tries to travel the other way there is too much resistance. It may start to flow but then stops with pressure remaing - thus caliper has pressure... I didn't see what year your car is. I've had it happen to early 90's Honda's. My VW's are from the 60's and 70's. I've taken to replacing the hoses before even looking at the brakes(other than the known wimpy wheel cylinders on the drum brakes). Just a thought. Dave

On the Kumho's - have trouble keeping them balanced? On my VW they need rebalanced with every rotation (5k). I was thinking of getting them for the girlfriends 2006 Impreza especially since she has the more costly 16" tires. Needing them rebalanced every rotation on her car is a problem. I always rotate them over the weekend when the local tire shops are closed. I've NEVER had tires that need constant rebalancing like these. They seem to grip well, handle well, priced excellent, but the rebalancing bites. Kumho KH16's H rated. Her factory Potenza's are gonna go 50k - would go further at a less sloppy time of the year. Dave

Definatley washers - not shims. My notes : VC bolt wshr 12 13271AA051 136ES 3.25 Also possibly Spark plug gkt 4 13293AA051 140E3 7.95 Those are list prices. VC would mean valve cover. My notes make it look like 12 @ 3.25 ea - those must be special washers! Thanks, Dave