davebugs

We broke the pin on one of those trying to get the rear axle nut off an old bug that had been in storage for 20 years - it was a mess. Snap-on guy couldn't believe we broke it. Luckily I had another one that is just a bent hunk of metal almost like a lug wrench in your trunk that's Snap-on 3/4 drive. Don't know how much we may have bent it but it still works! Funny as it sounds until I spent big bucks for an impact I bought an electric impact (AC Delco) that would often actually break things loose and air powered one wouldn't. IIR one of the things in this category was sometimes the crank bolt without anything holding the crank, and some lug nuts.

Welcome to the USMB. Lots of good existing info here and helpful folks.

I'd really try and avoid heat. How about a LONG cheater bar? I have a 6" hunk of steel pipe I put in my long snapon 1/2 breaker bar. And I also have a snapon 3/4 I guess breaker bar - one bent piece of steel I have for my air cooled VW rear axle nuts. I know you're stuck. But I'm really thinking heat is a bad idea. Question - why you removing it - as in what's already gonna need replacing.

Also kept to short trips the HG's can be bad for a while before being noticed. I usually test using a 45 minute drive. You have a classic SUBARU HG symptom.

I've got a pile of flexplates. They all seem to be the same. Most are marked 95 2.2 so perhaps they are all 2.2's. BUt oouldn' tsee how I'd have that many of just 2.2's around. I must not of saved them when scrapping 2.5 cars with bad tranny's after pulling the engines for some reason. I stand correccted.

Flexplate's are identical. But just to be sure I keep the TC and flexplate from the 2.5 when putting a 2.2 in it. I've always been able to get the vacuum lines correct. If the car it's going into is a 98 or later with the charcoal canister near the filler tube it just takes a little more plumbing work up front with the small rubber lines..

If fuel or coolant is in exhaust the exhaust can be white for a half hour easy. Usually is after I replace an engine. Folks try starting a car after a timing belt breaks, or engine fails somehow. All that fuel stays in the exhaust a long time (months it seems). When new engine is installed it still all needs burned out - and burns white. Engine running "well" and rich is black smoke. Fresh coolant burning OR burning fuel and crap out of exhaust is white. OP never said what he was fixing originally, or more accurately what happened that it needed fixed. And I'm having a lot of trouble with his english.

First 2 guesses. Timing off. Or last belt broke or slipped and valve damage.

I'd rotate not just "check" the tires. And when Ive had this issue it's always been a front axle - usually the drivers side actually. BUt it only happened to me on 2 95-99 Subaru's.

I've never seen a knock sensor cause a miss. Which I believe was the original problem. Sluggish performance without a possible CEL - yes. But never seen a knock sensor cause a miss. Guess there is always a first time...

TCUs in Subarus rarely go bad. Just sayin' I don't even bother pulling them when scrapping cars. Same with ECU's on Subaru's. I have had decent success with Lucas transmission fix in a variety of cars. Again for me Subaru tranny issues have been rare.

Maybe put a better location in your profile. Perhaps a member is close and you can swap wires (and maybe other things) to see what's happenning. "Known good" and "verified bad" can both be very helpful. I've done stuff like that for local members. I don't have any of the newer stuff like you need though.

It could still be plug wires..believe it or not. 2.5's are moody. "store brand" plug wires? You could try many sets of them with no/little success. Hate it when the obvious things don't fix a problem. The fact that is was 3&4 miss means to me(IMO) it's electrical.

Welcome to the USMB. I used to do a lot of 95-99's and have parts for them (including engines) that I'm parting out. I don't do the older Subie's (vintage VW's actually). When you can PM PM me. I haven't heard form a long term member who lives local lately. But he did have some old Subaru cars and parts he was thinking of selling.

Bummer. Sorry for your loss. "only the good die young"? Because a lot of idiots seem to live forever...and breed.

Gary, I put a97 Legacy FSM on a CD for him. I think it was all scanned pages so may not be the most ocnvenient. I'm sure I found the link for it here somewhere. I"m guessing 95-99 would work but don't know if/when they changed the speed sensor like the auto's in what 99? Don't know if other body styles (pre 95, post 99) would work or not. I realize hte FSM won't help with this. But if he tears it down to fix this one he'll need this FSM.

Don't know where to start - other than a different mechanic.

IIR the boots are more expensive than the ends. The old GF's 96 Impreza had the boots torn away and was loosing PS fluid. A bottle of Lucas stopped the leak for another 100k until it was totalled(for the second time and after hitting 8 deer) at 260k. If it's just the boots I may just let them go.

It's been too long and I don't have one to look at. My memory literally isn't what it used to be. I forget if it's easier to remove the 2 bolts that hold it to the tranny and undo the hose or not. I'd guess undoing the hose while the slave is attached would be my first choice. Maybe someone with more current experience(and better memory) will chime in.

A local town has a "recycle day" last sat of every month. They take most anything, charge a buck or two per tire. Something special about taking old paint too. They may take antifreeze then - I jsut don't know. I'll be curious on what you turn up. It's like the stuff "just disappears". I take it to a dealer - but don't have a clue what they do with it, that's why I take it there! They get my used oil, they get the coolant too!

Actually I've had the same questions. There used to be a farm equipment place that took it to put into the tires - not much more toxic than calcium I guess. I hear (from someone at the local sewage authority) it's legal to dump down the drain. My weekend place has septic and I have to kill all the bacteria every year with winterizing it with windshield washer and anti-freeze in the sink traps and toilet. None of my local parts places, or garages that want free oil will take coolant. So I guess first question is public sewer or septic?

PLEASE update your profile with a useful location. I partially install the new slave. Connect the hose up, loosen the bleeder. Sometimes I do hand tighten slave to tranny and start to bleed. Undo the 2 bolts and IIR used to try and turn the part with the bleeder up as much as I could(so the air bubbles go there) and bleed. I push on what normally comes out of the slave to push on the clutch fork. It is a bit messy and can be a bit stubborn.

Search around here. I believe there may be a writeup or even a video link. If you had a DECENT location in your profile a member may offer to help. I find it easier to leave it unbolted and push the part that pushes the clutch fork to help bleed. Then can be difficult to bleed. Then again I'm almost always doing it myself. Good luck.

Most autoparts carry them in a bubble package with 2 crush washers in them. The packages are black & yellow. I usually buy them 6 at a time at the dealer. Somefolks use the same one forever. BTW same washer on an auto trans plug. I believe the blister pack is like 4 bucks for 2. Cheaper at the dealer IIR. If I don't have the correct crush washer I have an assortment of copper washers and I use one of those.

P0420 - catalyst efficiency. It's my aunt, a retired Nurse. Forget what year, probably over 100k, she bought new. I was still recovering from neck surgery in March when this went on. So I couldn't start unbolting plastic stuff around throttle body,etc to look for a good vacuum hose. Most seemed metal and at the back of the engine, and at the time simply reaghing my arms out hurt. She says her mileage doubled. Not that she checks it, but she could make double her normal trips on the same tank. A neighbor of hers had the same issue. With same excellent results. I have a local independent auto parts where it's pretty cheap. I had to warn them against using it every tank because my parents were getting it for her constantly. I suggested one time per month or every oil change. Now that I'm a little more mobile I may take another look for a good vacuum line on it. I'm sure she's been abusing the Seafoam but I'm pretty sure the light is still off. I told her I may have another fix (the spark plug adapter) and so far she hasn't asked about it.