davebugs

I would prefer to use somethng other than the brake booster hose but it's worked well for me. I'd prefer a smaller hose that may distribute it more evenly - but the booster hose has worked well. I recently tried to find a vacuum hose on a Toyota RAV4 after she had significant success with Seafoam in the fuel and in 5 minutes couldn't find a good hose. However even with it in the tank her CEL is out and mileage almost doubled. I'm sure the car has been ignored most of it's life.

The seafoam and/or the double stacked spark plug non-fouler's have worked for every 97 I've done. Not many - probably a half dozen 97's. Certainly worth the effort given the alternatives. I often find it handy to get a dye kit. Then with a black light from the kit you can see better where all whatever fluid that's leaking is. Much more effective then the naked eye. And when hard to spot it's easier at night to see. When I had trouble (3 replacement engines to get a good one) for a 99 Forester I broke down and bought a complete kit with stuff for coolant, oil, and AC dye's for like 100 bucks. Comes with black light with long leads to go to battery(I use my jump box), goofy glasses, etc. in a nice green plastic case.

Seafoam for your problem is best introduced through a vacuum line. May be worth a youtube search. It'll cause a cloud of white smoke so bad the neighbors may call the fire department. I gave up on finding a small hose arounf the throttle boday and jsut use the big hose that goes to the brake booster. I keep pouring some into an old rattle paint can lid (white or yellow) so I can see the level of seafoam because it can be easy to stall the car prematurely. If the coolant leak is up front on drivers side that's the rad, rad/hose connection, hose/plastic WP outlet connection, Thermostat(and Oring) or waterpump. Did you get the thermostat in correctly(it's pretty obvious on an OEM thermostat when it's in backwards, aftermarket not so much. Did you have trouble with that Oring over the thermostat? Did you get the rubber coated metal WP gasket from the dealer and install it dry? I'd start by checking that lower ran hose's clamp. Hope its not coming from the overflow bottle. Did you follow the instrustions (and/or video) here on how to burp?

Try seafoam through a vacuum line. I usually use brake booster and pay attention NOT to stall it out until you're supposed to. As stated where is coolant leak from? If you're on here I ASSUME you used OEM HG's and the latest Head Torque procedures(the Mexican had dance of HG installs). Often folks have trouble with lower rad clamp if they pulled the rad. Is it the WP (and a generic cardboard gasket) or from the HG? Gotta give us a little more to work with. Heck the hoses to the heater core couild be loose.

A friend has a 95 Impreza (1.8 actually) speed that I sold him. He's been pulling a trialer with way too heavy of stuff in it. Pops out of some gears and linkage(or actually gear sloppiness) is an issue. Looking for a FSM that applies or good used trans and read diff from anything that will fit. Infact I believe it may have a trans/diff form a Legacy in it now. I've never been able to buy many manual Subaru's. I believe the 99 auto's got another speed sensor. So not positive of what all years(and models) will interchange. I do have (and found here today) some FSM's but most are scans which makes them a bit hard to look through. I have som esaved that won't copy to CD for some reason. So if anyone has a link (or can email me) the appropriate FSM(or atleast the manual trnas section) or provide a link that would be great. If anyone within a few hundred miles has known good parts please PM me. Thanks.

I just parted several engines and have several to do yet. I keep a few of the dowels to align engine and trans onhand. The others I may be able to get for you but not for a week ro so.

I check the engine - one of several reasons I think you should pull the engine to do a proper HG job. It's also easier to clean up and "true" if necessary that mating surface. Often on the heads you can see wear from the HG apparently moving around a bit. There will be a little groove. Again if I see a lot of wear I'm suspect of rod bearings and usually 2.2 it. If you look at the old HG's you can usually see where the black rubber stuff is missing at the bottom of the cylinders between the cylinder and water jacket. I keep some on the wall to show folks. I take my heads to be surfaced, steam cleaned, and checked. Never have needed valves or guides, or seat work. The shop I use says Subaru's rarely need guides unless a physical problem. Then again if ANY reason to suspect a 2.5 I just put a 2.2 in. I've probably only had a dozen or so 2.5 heads done. I've done another dozen 2.5 HG jobs without sending them out. Infact the dealer rarely sends them out. I do often see some warpage on a head - I forget which one - it's been a while. From the center to one of the corners. You can get a machinest's straight edge and feeler gauges to check whether it's within specs or not. Often I prefer the finish from a machine shop to the finish I can get with scotch brite, etc.

GG, They get gaulded in there pretty bad. That's why when folks may be having a problem with the crank sensor I recommend starting to soak it down with their favorite "penetrant" "just incase" it needs to come out. I've tried to remove 12, only 2 were successful and I wasn't sure about one of them (plastic turned a bit within the metal sleeve - so I didn't sell it). They are hard to get ahold of. Often I start with hose clamp pliers. Even after you get the metal that's lelft all wadded up the fight isn't over. I tried to remove a few that I had damaged to list some oil pumps on Ebay and still gave up. I have the cast piece that has the oil pump and sensor in it in a vise smacking the sensor with a drift with no success. Liberal amounts of PB and often liquid wrench overnight. And I'm working on engines out of the car. Gotta be a real nightmare when in the car. I have installed 2 crank sensors. And they were very liberally coated with anti-seize. I also cleaned out the whole with scotchbrite real well. Often a new crank sensor solves an intermittent starting issue it seems. They never seem to die while car is running.

These are a real PITA. They are hard to remove even when you have removed the oil pump and can get to the bottom of the sensor too.

Check for all tires identical. Gives you some idea of how much the car was paid attention to and possible future (or existing) torque bind issues. 2.2 is sturdier than a 2.5 in my experience. Take for a long test dirve is you can (over 45 minetes) if a DOHC to check for HG issue - other than looking at overflow bottle. Tight turns in a parking lot ot check for torque bind.

Don't understand the question. Knock sensor and the two O2 sensors are completely different.

Good news!

Search. Often asked. I happen to use theimportexperts.com kits - on Ebay they are often cheaper than if you call them. Idler set, WP, cam seals, crank seal, WP gasket(rubber coated metal), oil pump Oring I get OEM. I do accessory belts and coolant too. Usually spark plugs and sometimes VC gaskets. Because other than baffle plate then it's all sealed up. If it's like a 95-96 2.2 I get the 2 thin Orings at the dealer too for the ends of the cams. Make sure you get the crank bolt TIGHT!!

And how about a USEFUL location? Including a state maybe? There is a Springdale near me and I can loan you whatever parts you may need to diagnose.

As already pointed out check the timing belt. I'm electrically challanged so I check the belt forst. 3 10mm bolts on each "ear" of the timing belt cover ends. Look to make sure BOTH cam's line up. Then I'd check the crank and cam sensor. Any maintenance history (like timing belt)?

Check this out. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-Genuine-OEM-OE-Factory-Original-23700AA34ARA-Alternator-Generator-/330733019249?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d01396071&vxp=mtr This is a dealer somewhat close to me (I've heard the adds on radio in tthe outer reaches of local to me). 135 NEW OEM including core charge of 50? You'd have to pay return shipping on core I suppose. SOunds like a deal. I'll have to remember this if I ever need another one(I still have several used including Subaru reman).

Align crank first. Then align cams. IIR this was a 95 2.2 because it had dual port exhaust? If so you're safe anyways. But with the crank lined up all the pistons should be out of the way of the valves.

If the crank is ligned up thats about all you can do before moving the cams

I'd think the proper rear end would be easy enough to find. I don't know about compatibility but in general when the bi\oy style changed a lot of the mechanicals seem to have changed also. Don't forget the rearend MUST match the trans ratio.

Clamps or clothes pins are you rfriend. Seriousely WHY would you ever use an old DOHC timing belt? Not worth the risk. Seriousely.

Idler kit. cam seals (OEM) or the last ones form theimportexperts looked good. Crank seal (see above) the 2 Orings (dealer item) one for back of pass head, one fron tof drivers head by cam sensor. WP (I like the rubber coated metal ones like the dealer has). Timing belt Accessory belts. New coolant

What year is that engine? That belt was WAY past it's prime. Looks like when th e2.2 was put in they didn't put a new belt on it.

Repalce the TO bearing clips!!

FYI I use Dayco belts on DOHC's and on the drivers side the hash marks on the cam sprockets never seem to quite match up to each other (bottom of intake sprocket/top or exhaust sprocket) but all the other ones seem to.

WHEN it oveerheats STOP DRIVING IT and do the HEAD GASKETS IMMEDIATELY!!!! Use OEM gaskets. I believe this would stop 80% of rod bearing failures, maybe more. Ignorance is expensive!! Denial is expensive!!