davebugs

Please post in only one forum. Every 95 Legacy headlight I've seen will work on a 96. I often check car-part.com to confirm. Around 98 they made the turn signal part of it different (2 piece IIR).

For those that find this thread. For scrapping I find it easier to split the case and undo the rod bolts. Infact I did 2 2.5's with a combination of both - following the instructions to remove wrist pin clips than pounding wrist pins out, and undoing rod bolts. On the first engine it didn' tmatter much. On the second engine I broke part of the piston on 3 pistons from the retaining wring on the "other" side I suppose when driving the wrist pin out. From this if I were going to redo the rod bearings I'd probably try to disconnect the rod bolts and skip the whole wrist pin while still in the block mess. Just my experience. Gonna put some cranks, cams, rods, pistons on Ebay to see what happens. A few oddbal tools needed - 12 & 14mm Allen impact, the usual 14mm12 point for head bolts then also a 12mm12 point for case bolts. Aluminum pays a little more than 3 times scrap metal and I seem to get about 50 lbs of aluminum per engine. Hard to tell because I had like 4 intakes, 4 block halves(form 2 engines), only 2 heads, bunch of brackets,etc.

I got this apart yesterday. Not following the linkso much as just seeing where things were hidden and borrowing a 14mm allen. In the end I understand why the steps are done and why you just can't pull apart the halves without undoing the rods. Not too bad of a job. Probably took me an hour trying to make it up as I wont along mostly. I used a socket extension and pry bar thing with the one end like a drift to drive out the wrist pins. Don't see any rods or crank on Ebay so I'll try listing them. Although I don't know why anyone would buy them used.

NO obvious thoughts. But how does clutch feel? Wondering if anything with the TO bearing or something got messed up.

Yea. I'm just selling the heads, oil pump, IAC, the usual stuff. I would consider actually rebuilding one or two of these for kicks if there were a good rod bearing replacement procedure for instance. I'm trying to get these all done in roughly the next week to make room for stuff when I part out the car I was hit in. I still don't know how much I'll be able to do in the garage. It took me about 1.5 hours to get this thing down to the stripped shortblock and I'm hurting from it. A rob bearing procedure would be helpful and need to show the teardown. I would contribute one if I knew how to do it. Or is someone wants to give me a very detailed order of disassembly I could try documenting my next one. Depending on how the day unfolds I could be doing a few more of these today. My best local aluminum guy usually overlooks the metal cylinder inserts for me because everything else is so clean. Atleast he has with Saturn and VW engines in the past. He has his own smelter and pays more than everyone else.

On my air cooled VW's it's a bit different due to the "jugs". They are removable and look like motorcycle combustion chambers with fins and all to dissipate the heat. Squished between the block and heads. Infact often they are shimmed to get proper displacement. Then there are the push rod tubes that always rust. So the case on them is actually magnesium? I forget, not aluminum and burns a bright white. And while being the original horizontally opposed engine (I believe- could be wrong) that engine can be further broken down that a Subaru. And it's been a while since I split a VW case. I actually have one one the stand (has been for a few years now) that I basically did break down almost to the case. Tomorrow I hope to get this 2.5 DOHC apart. Then I'll decide how far to dis-assemble the next half dozen. I do want to totally disassemble atleast one for science sake.

Thanks. I'm a little out of order but basically at post 5 on that thread. I've already removed stuff in steps further down in the process. Thanks for the link.

I'll have to look at the water jacket ones. There were 5-6 easy to get to. The one under the oil windage tray has been removed. The bolt above the rear main has been removed as well. I saw those 14mm hex heads and wondered. Until it's apart just not understanding why wrist pins need removed and halves just don't pull off the rotating assy. Do you leave it on a stand or what - how is it easiest to do? I had to put it on a stand to remove head bolts. I can't ever break them with my nice IR impact or even a borrowed one. So it's bolted to the stand but the fingers on the stand are loose enough to give me a little play for when it does start to seperate. Thanks for the pointers. I have a few pics of how it is now. If I think of it I'll take more pics incase someone can make it a PDF or something.

I'm disassembling engines to sell parts and scrap. Figured I'd split the case to see what was involved. So just the short block is there. Case halves crank, pistons. Took out all the bolts I could find. Baffle plate and that other access plate I assume for a wrist pin are still on. Engine is on a stand. I assume I can split the case and basically pull the halves off the pistons/rods/crank? Can someone point me to a procedure, pics, checklist, anything? This one is a shame. Really clean inside, less than 110k.

I should be parting a 2.2 soon (probably 96 0r 97 and should have good used heads. PM me if that's something you'd be interested in and I'll check them out.

I have a complete assy off a 99 2.5. I don't recall anything special about it. Other than it was a bit loud under the hood.

If you need cam pulleys let me know. I have a set of 4 I pulled for another member already pulled that he ended up not needing. Usually folks just need the right side. I put them in a kit I call "the dreamers kit" or "I'm feeling lucky kit" often for folks that had a timing belt break or idler fail, valves collide, and they think it's just the cam pulleys that broke during the crash. It includes both R side cam pulleys, a used timing belt, and used idler of your choice. Enough to make you realize jus thos screwed you are and that the engine needs to come apart. Then I have heads for when you realize what the real fix is. Again it's usually just the R side. They will need the cam sprockets at some point anyways. I seem to sell about 4 of these sets per year. Infact I'm almost out of them.

Should be a 2.5. 2 easy wells to tell. On the black plastic timing belt covers. Is there indentations on boths sides for one cam - or two - one above the other? Look around the PS pump/middle of the engine. Cast into the top of the block it'll say EJ22 or EJ25 IIR. Also I think other than 95 the Outback manuals are all 2.5's as well as the auto's. I've redone a few 97 & 98's that were manual and they were definately 2.5's when I got them.

I don't understand. You had the time/money to do a valve job and left the old plugs in it ? NEVER seen a bad ECU in a Subaru. I don't even bother saving them when I scrap a car. I have known good injectors and ignitors, coils, etc even heads as probably a lot of us do here if you need something PM one of us. I'm tearing down engines right now.

Move plug wires front to back/back to front. See if problem stays on same cylinder or moves. It's free and may give some insight.

The headlight connectors melting is relatively common. So I keep some around from cars I've scrapped. I believe the auto parts has generic ones that will fit, don' tkno if htey have the rubber boot or not though.

Classic head gaskets. You just noticed the most telling symptom. Most important thing is to not keep doing this. If you stop overheating it just HG replacement may do. Keep driving it and a 2.2 swap is the cure.

No need for new head bolts on a 2.2 unless there is literally a problem with a bolt.

Yea - that's what usually happens. Usually hte folks with a 2.5 try cam sprockets forst - thinking that's the problem. I now sell a used "dreamers kit". Both R cam sprockets for the DOHC, a used timing belt and a used idler of you choice (incase the cogger idler failed). I figure they will need the cam sprockets in the end anyways.

I buy the best, OEM if necessary. I've done a lot of 95-99 Subaru's and non ever needed a BJ. Rear end links a few (and they were pricey). GG is correct. Like my Astro just needed an idler on the LF suspension. Wen tot my local independent auto parts and the new fella(been there a few weeks) looked up what they had. One for 25.00 (probably Quality or Cardone) and a MOOG for 117.00. I asked for the expensive one. I had to ask twice because most folks buy the cheap parts. I don't piss around with cheap parts in general and certainly not with steering. I prefer used OEM to new and cheap most of the time but that doesn't make sense for a BJ.

When doing a Timing Belt on a Subaru of that vintage the drivers side cam is under load (or the drivers top/intake on a DOHC) and the passenger side is not. Also ironically when a belt breaks usually the other side's valves get bent first.

What he said. I use importexperts myself. Last kit I got had a goo dlooking WP gasket and crank/cam seals that I had them add. Prior to that I always got OEM. The rubber coated metal WP gasket and dark brown seals are what you want. I heard some tald her ethe good seals went back to black but I haven't witnessed that - and that woul dbe stupid because a fella can't tell junk form good by looking after installation. I also install new accessory belts and coolant at the same time since I have them off. Personally I get the PS belt 1/2" longer and the AC belt 1/2" smaller for ease of installation on PS pump and to have some room left on adjusted on AC side. Frequently I'd do VC gaskets if they were needed and also the spark plugs while I was into a major project. Fan removal is all that's necessary but you can pull the whole rad assy complete. If you pull the whole assy the difficulties are the clamp on lower rad hose (you can undo it at WP and yank it out) and the lower ATF line is difficult even with overflow bottle removed. Here in the rust belt removal of fans often turns into removal of rad assy and "fixing" the fan to rad bolts that broke. If I pulled the rad I often replace rad hoses and while it's out. While doing the WP make sure thermostat is OEM. I haven't tried the new Stant folks here have mentioned.

Clamps or clothes pins are your friend! Use them to keep belt on cam sprockets and crank. Buy a belt with lines on it (I use Dayco). I install lowest idler last myself. Make sure crank at TDC BEFORE belt removal and remember to break loose cam bolts if doing HG job before belt removed. Other than that follow th elinks. My faverite was by "skipnospam" at comcast IIR. It's a HG job bu tmy favorite writeup.

First question. What year 1.8? Does it have EGR or ODB2? I ask to confim because the only 1.8's I know have no EGR and that a problem if you need the CEL to be out.