davebugs

A TDI with a tune with a haul will really haul. Then there are always injectors and turbo upgrades. You'd likely be getting a chip tune to do immobilizer delete anyways. Best TDI website I've found is tdiclub.com FYI. I've fixed/flipped a lot of Subaru's. But I have 10 VW's. 7 air cooled's, 2 TDI's, and the GTI I was almost killed in I hope to part soon. If I'm able bodied again I'm thinking of throwing a 95,96,97 2.2 I have laying around into my street legal buggy. And I've thought about a TDI into a Subaru but those are expensive engines to play with. I haven't done an engine conversion since late 70's when we put a Buick V6 into the back seat of a VW bug. That thing would fly! Put disc brakes on the front to have some hope of stopping it. We actually installed AC to cool the radiator. No emissions crap computers or FI then on what we used back then. Made a lot of money with that car. Then we sold it before we killed ourselves driving it or by disgrentled loosers. Put a few Corvair Monza engines into offread tube buggies IIR with 327 4 barrel carbs. Those would really move too. Problem was always keeping the front end on the ground at all. Usually we'd get an 8" steel pipe and fill with cement for a front bumper as a start. Put on one of those individual wheel locking brake setups on. A lot of fun. Now no place to run something like that. Then againmy neck couldn't take that anymore anyways. Heck - I'm worried about driving the streel legal buggy much. A TDI Subaru would be good, but that engine would need laid over a ways but that's been done in other conversions. Kennedy adapters were always the proven, common adapters back in the day and I believe they still exist.

Very good odds it's the alternator. Like good enough to have it tested, or take it off and have it tested if you can't find your meter. Often the further you go you'll start loosing high RPM's too is another symptom because you're really running off of your battery.

Along these lines I find a "windshield installation tool" or a "bone" as a lot of body guys call them are very handy. For dash removal, anytime you're prying against paint it increases your chences of not marking the surface, lots of uses. Plastic, usually white, 2 tapered ends. Wonderful and universal tool. The tapered ends are rounded and often work good to scrape at the adhesive as you let things soak.

I own 2 TDI's. Folks are putting them in Samuri's and stuff for rock crawlers. Never seen one to see how they do it. VW offers no affordable AWD diesel options. That's why I'm one of those that would love to see the Subaru diesel make it here.

PB Blaster is more useful then you'd think. I use it all the time for JY paint stick removal. I just used it for the double faced tape from ventshades that had been on the car for 18 years. Take your time. I tried alchohol, WD-40, bug & tar, diesel, probably laquer thinner, my usual suspects and the PB worked the best.

If anyone is looking for 2.5 DOHC cams for cores to keep their downtime down PM me. At this time I have 5 sets - mostly from 97's one from 96. I'll have atleast one set of 2.2's too unless I sell the heads fully loaded. Fully loaded 96 & 97 2.5 heads available too.

year and pics (although the pic would really tell us what year).

Seruousely you've never heard of Chrysler Minivan tranny issues? I wouldn't own a Chrysler and know of them. They should be avoided like the plague, or an old GM Quad4, or a Chrysler Intrepid 2.7?, etc, etc. VW 99.2-2002 MKIV automatics (01m family). Acutally a tranny guy told me there is like a 50 cent plastic part that is what fails in the minivan tranny's that causes all the problems.

I agree. Best Subaru site I've found. I've only been here a few years though. Seems like a lot of excellent info on the older stuff here - although that isn't what I work on. Great existing knowledge base, and helpful members. And an excellent staff, and no adds.

Found my answer. Mods please delete.

I've done both ways and still have to go looking or PM Shawn every time it seems. Perhaps it needs to be a LARGE button at the top of the page so some of us challanged folks can find it easier, and remind the folks who don't contribute that the site is add free.

First off, wrong forum. Then it's the usual Head Gaskets, torque bind, and depending on part of the country the "jap rust" at the rear wheel wells like Honda and Toyota.

PA is a large state - wanna update your profile to include a city please? Welcome to USMB. Lots of good information here with the search and good folks to answer questions if you can't find what you need with the search. Folks here generally maintain their own cars and also do major repairs. If you're looking for a site about radio's, turbos, and lowering your car there are better sites. If you wanna keep your car on the road yourself this is the best Subaru site I've found. Even if you just wanna understand what is likely the problem and needs done to make sure you're not taken advantage of.

It's sounding more like bent valves - which would be no surprise. You're basically saying the starting sound is constant - as in no compression it sounds like.

Spark? Crank and cam sensor plugger in?

Some folks ignore the starter bolt too and report no ill effects. I've never done it that way though.

The rubber coated metal gasket is what you want to seal pump to block. The cardboard ones suck and often leak. Every WP I"ve seen leak had the cardboard gasket or RTV. It almost sounds like you were asking about the thermostat purely rubber gasket because it goes between the pump and the plastic outlet piece.

Wires. SOmething isn't letting the spark make the loop. If you've done the coil you can try an ignitor but htey rarely fail. Swap the wires front to back and see if the problem stays with the wires or coil. 1 to 3 2 to 4

I had a set of aftermarket's for my MKIV VW that bilted up fine on a 97 Legacy GT. I believe atleast the same bolt pattern also is on the Cavaliers. I have a set of VW steel wheels here in that bolt pattern that I put on CL a while back - an extra set.

I'd have someone check the actual radiator. On the DOHC's the bottle could be overfilled as a symptom. Although I think the 2009's have the later HG problem of weeping coolant loss. Other than that check the sensor and it's plug. On VW's they have an issue wth "coolant egress" I beleive they call it where the bottle will crack and contaminate where the sensor plugs into the harness.

ODB ports on Legacy is incredibly easy. Flip down the little door at your left knee between steering column and door post below the vent.

Often when a Subaru suddenly runs like crap and no miss, cat converted glowing red, and no codes it seems to be knock sensor. Look to see if it's cracked. Often a knock sensor atleast at the start will only perform bad when damp. So rainy days until the engine gets warmed up and dried out it'll just be gutless. You can often cause this at will by taking a spray bottle and getting the knock sensor wet. If you see any cracks on it when looking at it replace it.

I got .65 lb for clean cast aluminum and .18 for dirty aluminum. Gotta figure out if it's worth spiltting the cases on these half dozen 2.5 DOHC's I'm gonna scrap. I've never split one. Almost the the 2.2 I scrapped friday since it was already pretty stripped including the oil pan even. Thought it would be a problem to try and split on an engine stand and working on the floor isn't as good of an option as it used to be. I was gonna put it on the lift but decided to just scrap that one as it was.

I just took a 2.2 short block in for scrap friday and I wanna say it was more than 65 lbs. Ironically I couldn't lift it (still restricted to 25 lbs) but I think it was more like100 or more judging by the guy who eventually picked it up by the seatbelt I had on it from the alternator bracket I reinstalled to have a handle and the plug to take the flexplate bolts out. It was bare, had the crossover pipe on it. No heads, intake, oil pan & pickup were gone. I can't tell from my slip because it was dirty aluminum along with 4 buckets of mostly Subaru water pumps, AC compressors, etc. The pistons don't weigh much but the crank usually does. FYI I believe a bare intake weighs 13 lbs if I remember that correctly. I shoul dhave kept track I took in bare DOHC heads too.

Likely coil, wires or knock sensor got wet and aren't up to par.