davebugs

I do Seafoam first, then the spacer if needed myself. I may be lucky but one or the other has fixed every one I needed to fix.

I post here from time to time that I've had pretty good success with Seafoam curing this - atleast for a while. Search for the procedure. Makes a cloud of white smoke - your neighbors will think your house is on fire. I've done it to several Subaru's and know the light didn't come back on for atleast several thousand miles. I've taken to doing it to other cars now as well with actually pretty good success. It's not like cats are cheap to replace.

Welcome to USMB. Search around here a bit what you are looking for is well, and often covered. Short version if that engine is jun put a 2.2 in . First choice a 95 from an auto (HAS TO HAVE EGR!!!) Second choice 96,97 2.2 but you'll need it's matching Ypipe. You're in the land of crazies so I don't know what CA only crap you may run into.

On ANY Subaru 2.5 I do HG's and timing belt stuff before installing the "new" engine while it's out and accessable. ALso literally gives me look inside.

IIR just a belt ranges 35-50 for Dayco for 2.2 to 2.5 belts. You're asking those idlers to go an awful long time. The labor is virutally the same. But to each their own. I understand being on a budget too. But a car is kind of important. To get a person to work and food. So I have a tendency to cut back on car maintenance last.

NO. It's behind the cogged end of the crank behind the crank pulley/harmonic balancer. Infact to me it dictates a new crank seal too. ALong with the oil pump Oring and ultra grey (no gasket) and check those screws on the back of the pump!

When in doubt do the belt. And I always do everything that touches the belt. In your case it's up to you on crank and cam seals, oil pump Oring and screw tightening. I do accessory belts, coolant, plugs, fuel filter, oil & filter and then it's done for a while.

Nice catch! With a 'd' it's over 2 hours and 120 miles roughly to Henderson's (even though there is a town called Henderson near you). You can probably find one closer. I don't know why it's a one year engine. Maybe someone else knows so you know what may need changed if you can get a cheaper 2001 or 2003 lets say.

CRAZY there are 2 Huntington PA's listed with 2 different zip codes. Not sure why they are listed as one year. But I put one in a 99 FOrester 2.5 SOHC - it did require a different timing belt. So I'd say it's doable - hopefully someone else will chime in. I found this nead me for an AT for 1,350(not a bad price for a 2.5) they have 2 for 1,350 each and a 6 month warranty. A smaller family yard with the same folks working there for years. My preferred supplier actually. Did I mention 6 month warranty? Good folks to deal with. I've bought a lot of engines from them. Only had trouble with one (a 2.2 with bend valves I assume) and they handled it great. Maybe update your profile with which Huntington your in. Ilooked because I have North Huntington near me so I would have recommended Henderson for the engine and may have been able to give you a hand figuring things out.

My guess is mice chewed some wireing. I've seen it with computers (back in the day) and certainly with cars. You're swapping components but the same wireing harnes(s) is staying in place. I could be wrong because you didn't go out of your way to be averly specific when explaining the swapping you did. But it is a good guess.

No spark anywhere sounds like crank sensor or ignitor. Ignitors rarely fail. Crank sensors can be a pain to remove they get gaulded in there. I assume by now you've triple checked the timing?

They are referred to as "Lego's" for a reason. Lots of stuff interchangable for several years and often mechanicals between Legacy and Impreza.

Welcome to the USMB. Lots of good info and folks here. Search is your friend. Then ask if you're still not sure.

Don't understand what you are saying. Wiggling side to side (not up and down) usually helps. Even if it has to be done with channel locks or similar. They make a little puller for them too. A little puller for wiper arms may work too. Occasioanlly I buy one for the battery terminal and usually use it on a wiper (like the rear wiper arm on a Legacy wagon) and break it.

I have run a lot of KYB's on mostly the old air cooled VWs. I have had Monroe's on my 01 VW Golf for the last 140k and they are still in excellent shape. I did Monroe's because at the time believe it or not Sears was runing a deal in Feb I beleive where they installed them all and aligned it for a little cheaper than I could buy the parts. ABout the only work I've ever had anyone else do on that car. I have installed Monroe socks/struts on Subaru's since that's what my local independent parts place stocks with no issues. But then again I sold those cars so I can't report on how well they lasted. I think Monroe gets a bad rap a lot of the time. KYB's have been too stiff for some applications where I have used them. Bilsteins, Koni's, etc I think are a bit of a waste of money. This from someone who used to drive 50k per year and owns a dozen vehicles. FYI I think Gabriel's are often overlooked but I think about the only place you can find them now is Pep Boys.

ALWAYS a new timing belt since you've got it off. Best to do everything else that touches the belt as you're planning. And new spark plugs then you're done again for a LONG time. I roughly figure 1k for a good HG job with OEM gaskets and seals, New timing and accessory belts, theimportexperts idler kit, WP, oil pump Oring, having heads checked and cleaned. Edit/Add: May need to add 100 bucks because that's a high dollar tensioner that has gone 150k that doesn' tcome in most idler kits standard.

The only Subaru I've ever flipped that i had issues with was a 99 2.5 SOHC. And the folks I sold it to have had troubles. Took 3 engines to get a good engine to begin with. A 98 is the crappy 2.5 DOHC we're all used to fixing and a 2.2 should swap in just like into an Outback. Other than that I'd look at lets say 2002 or Newer which is unlikely for 4k.

IIR LR taillight or below that is where the wireing for a 4 wire plug can be plugged in. No need to tap into individual wires. I've removed and sold several but never installed.

I was gonna do this. My brother in law has done this method for years in car was's. They heat the floor so in the winter they can stay open. I ended up spending the money on a lift instead. Both are good choices. He recommended using good old Quest plastic pipe ratehr than the fance stuff made for floors. They have been using plastic pipe then quest for 30 years without issues. My 40x40x10 pole building could have been heated by a 40 gal water heater.

Think or it more as a decal package, a little groud clearance, slightly larger tires and thus slightly different gearing. No need to be converned at all. Infact it's preferred over a standard model and priced accordingly. Just check it out like any other car or Subaru. Most parts are the standard model equivalent like engine, wheel bearings, interior, most body parts (perhaps all body parts on an IMpreza outback - on a Legacy outback the buper cover and grille are different), the hood has a scoop, etc.

Sorry to hear that. I believe I've lways gotten GMB WP's from them and the impellar is the cast type. The last kit I got had a GMB WP and a rubber covered metal WP gasket. I'm unable to work on cars now, and have basically been unable for about a year. Perhaps they have changed things? I've bought a ton of their kits. I"m guessing more than 50 and rarely had a problem and when I did it was because I did a custom kit and they were great to work with. You have to ask for the crank/cam seals, accessory belts, VC gaskets if you want them. They are probably the 2 bearing row idlers. They send them that style so folks didn't put the single bearing one the wrong place (IIR it's supposed to be the bottom one. I have never asked them about the oil pump Oring since I always seem to need to make a run to the dealer anyways. Out of curiosity what brand timing belt did you get?

I've got one here from a 99 I'll ship you for 30.00 but I can't swear to the bulbs. I just parted the car. PM if interested.

For the rack I 've hed excellent results with Lucas Power Steering Goo on Subaru's even with missing boots on teh rack. Just a thought. Certainly is cheap and easy to try before installing a used rack. Local dealers claim NOT to get a reman rack - they install used FYI.

Glad it worked out. I can't help with the seatbelt.

The key will be fine. Dealer will have the oil pump O ring, the set of 2 Orings for a 95 for the cams. May want to pick up a WP gasket if your kit's isn't metal/rubber. And like I said ultra grey for oil pump reseal from local parts store.