davebugs

If you're gonna do it hit the dealer fo rthe set of 2 thin Orings. The one by the cam sensor, and the one on the back of the pass side head. Perhaos oil pump Oring - and if so some Ultra Grey. I replace accessorybelts at the same time. I use the kits from the other guys. If that WO gasket is cardboard grab one of those at the dealer too. I don't know if the Mizu kit has quality seals or not available. But as pointed out break loose cam bolts BEFORE removing timing belt.

I've never needed a puller. A rubber or plastic mallet helps to get the harmonic balancer started. If your tools don't arrive in time I should be around if you need to borrow to hit the window that you have help.

Just had a call from a fella with a bad engine in a 99 2.5 SOHC. Scored cylinder, bearings, had broken a cam (R intake IIR) last year. Will lets say a 2000 2.2 from an Impreza or something work for this? It took me 3 engines to get a "good" one for this car a few years ago. It's a college kids car so I'm pretty sure it gets beat. The dad recently did HG's and that's when he noticed the scoring. I've done a lot of 2.2 inplace of a 2.5 DOHC swaps. Is there an equivalent swap for the SOHC's? I'll keep searching.

I have that puller. And a tool for the harmonic balancer. I may even have some OEM seals here. If you wanna make the trip PM me. I'm outta here for afew hours.

Marvel Mystery Oil

I'm guessing you still may have something stuck in an oil passage. How many miles since put back together? Also have you tried MMO? It really seems to work on Subaru's, then change the oil again.

I was shocked last kit I got for a friend the WP gasket that came seemes to be the same as OEM (rubber coated metal). The seals seemed like OEM too. I do go to the dealer and get the oil pump Oring and make sure I have some ultra grey to reseal the oil pump. I never seem to find any loose screws on the 2.2 but if you're gonna put a new cam seal in anyways it'll never be easier to do.

I believe that is just a little too old to have a ratehr large metal fuse somewhere on the dash to the L of the steering wheel IIR hidden by a cover or jsut underneath the dash. tdiclub.com is the best site I've found but most of it is the later stuff. But I'd certainly go there and look.

Thanks for the links to the procedure to in essence test cat blockage with a vacuum check. Well, atleast you do have it diagnosed. Bummer that you ruined new aftermarket cats. I don't know if they'd be returnable and they aren't worth much in scrap (OEM's are). Hope this solves your problem.

Welcome to the USMB. Lots of good info and folks here. Members here tend to work on their own stuff. There are several more "childish" Subaru forum's out there. Lots of folks have much older Subaru's here.

Yea - but his may be sounding like a fan or resistor problem. Also FYI between 95 and 99 they changed the controls visually but I don't know if they are interchangable or not. Realized it when a friend with a 95 needed one and I only have one for a 99 that I can find currently.

The old style tensioners very rarely fail. I'd consider adding a WP and gasket, cam seal, crank seals, accessory belts. That's what I usually do. Also IIR it'll be a MitsubOshi timing belt. I have used them on non-interference 2.2's without incident. For interference I get Dayco personally.

I have seen a knock sensor cause this but it's always set a code or a "pending" code. I've never seen a coil or ignitor do this myself. They seem to work all or none of the time - not RPM related. The cats glow red when they are getting too much crap trying to go through them and they plug up. You may have killed the new cats. For cats if you can try this. Start the car up and immediately try and hit the high RPM's clinb a hill, whatever BEFORE they get very hot. COmpare that to how it performs after warmed up. Other than that I think we gotta wait to see what else you find. I'm not sure how you test cats with a vacuum tester. Explain that one to me please. Always interested in learning something new. Alternator is still a possibility - stupid as it sounds. I've been stranded twice with the alternator issue and several folks here have has the same thing happen and an alternator solved the issue.

Cool. The 2.2's aren't nearly as bad to burp it seems but occasionally folks still do have a problem with one. Glad you're all wrapped up.

o.k. on some 2.2's they do and on some they don't and I was too lazy to go to the upper garage and look at a 97 2.2 I have setting on a wagon. My first guess for oil in #1 hole is a power steering reservoir/pump leak and it's working it's way over there. Can you tell if it's PS or oil?

In some counties in different states it was mandatory for a long time and still may be. The county Pittsburgh PA is in (Allegheny) may still be this way. I know they were that way long after most places weren't. In NJ and NY I don't think you could pump it yourself when I last commuted to New York city about 8 years ago.

True "changing" cats is much different from installing new cats. 2 things come to mind. How far do you get before this happens? And try it at night. If a cat is the problem they usually glow a nice cherry red if you drive it long enough and easier to see at night.

I forget but I think the Valve Covers on that 97 the spark plugs have to go through them? If so you need a new VC set. I usually just use Felpro but a lot of folks seem to like especially the OEM Orings for where the spark plugs pass through. That oil gets on the wires and connectors and leads to bad things.

Hose clamp pliers. VERY handy for lots of things. I have a good Sunnex(sp?) set and a cheap Harbor Frieght set. The angle at the end is different. IIR the good ones are bent much more. You can also take a pic and some PB and get the pick in there and hit it with some PB then slide the pic around the nipple.

When you're older and less arrogant and less electrically inclined and don't wanna mess with how the wires pass through the base you'll understand. And mine the old rubbers wouldn't come off of. But good for you!!

I didn't like the RS bulbs. Enough that I went to the dealer and got the 3 correct bulbs for under 20 bucks. I gave the RS bulbs to another member. With the OEM bulbs, and disconnecting the cable in the pass footwell it wasn't a bad job and I'm definately NOT an electrical guy.

I believe you are correct and the voltage may be low. I diagnose it by symptoms rather than my multimeter that I'm definately a novice at. A chain parts store should check the alternator for you for free on or off the car. And if you haven't done a fuel filter they are less than 20 bucks and easy to do. Good on the NGK plugs. And I mean that it just won't get into the higher RPM's. When it kicks down it does for seconds but then starts loosing the high RPM's again.

I have witnessed this be the alternator. Loose high RPM's first and keep loosing more of top end as you drive. Hard to tell it from clogged fuel filter or clogger cat. But perhaps a load test on the alt and battery would help diagnose. Sure cheaper than everything else you've done. What plugs did you install. ALthough bad brand/model of plugs usually isn't RPM related.

You need to spend 50 bucks n an ODB2 reader and/or try having it reread again. A reader pays for itself rather quickly and will work on basically all cars since 95/96 and is a wise investment. There should be a code when the CEL comes on, and sometimes there will be a "pending" code even when CEL isn't on. About the only codes that will clear themselves it seems are sometimes O2 sensors and "catalyst effieciency" codes, and EVAP codes (like loose gas cap).

Did the ABS light come on?