davebugs

Odds are great that the rear main is O.K. Odds also are that the installation of a new one is very easy to screw up. Unless there is a lot of oil and obviousely from the rear main I'd leave it alone. Lets put it this way. I've probably seen the back of close to 100 Subaru engines. Only 2 had a leaking rear main. Know what they had in common? They had been replaced before!! To post a pic I think you have to put it into your photo album here at USMB first.

I'm guessing the alarm. I don't know that body style well though. You did NOTHING other than disconnect the battery? Like you didn't take the airbox loose?

Mostly remember to undo the jamb nut on the tensioner's long bolt before unscrewing the tensioner bolt. On the older 2.5's that can be a very tight belt to get back on. I often buy it 5 longer than called for (and the AP belt 5 less than called for) to make it easier to install on the up to 99's I usually work on. Other than that no science at all. I'd be concerned about if the timing belt was done. I replace those accessory belts when I do the timing belt.

Open hood. Stand by LF wheel. Look just inside engine compartment by strut tower. You'll see it ther infront of you and the lines running over to the intake. About the easiest fuel filter there is to change!

Also please update your profile with a USEFUL location. There is more than one town in one state by that name. Often board members will help out other board members.

SHoot - response lost. I see you updated the post to show model. I don't work on the newer stuff much. But on a 2005 Impreza 2.5 it has the usual 3 Subaru belts. The timing belt (hidden by timing belt cover). AC accessory belt. Alternator/PS pump belt. So I'm back to which belt are you calling the serpentine belt?

Welcome to USMB. I pretty bright bunch here and lots of info already here if you search. But regardless if you're looking or we're trying to help a year, model and engine size will be needed. We're not that good....

Truthfully pulling ht eheads was probably a waste of time. What year is the engine? Usual - baffle plate, perhaps the 2.2 O rings (one behind cam sensor, one on back of passenger side head), cam/crank seals, the usual stuff. Perhaps VC gaskets. But really they are rather bullet proof. Like I said pulling the head was unnecessary actually IMO.

Personally I don't put anything on any of them usually. I have seen where folks have used Blue on the 8 crank bolts. Use an Impact to get those existing phillips out of the old seperator plate.

It'll soon be a month. Sorry guys. But the fella's on the forum where I found out about this deal were complaining today that's why I posted here. Perhaps they figure noone needs what they purchased until warm weather? I'd assume they got paid shortly after you entered your CC info. Not that they were large transactions but you'd think they'd give folks who ordered a heads up on the delay.

Fuel FILLER tube.

I've seen the fuel filler cause this.

Someone on the MB I got the info about this special offer said it's been a few weeks and he hasn't heard anything or received product. I never ordered since I don't know how much I'm gonna be able to do in the garage and have some Kroil, Yield (haven't used any yet), PB, liquid wrench already. Is anyone else having problems?

Examine the keyway CLOSELY!!! I have one harmonic balancer left. PM if interested. I'll be unable to do much including shipping shortly.

Welcome! Excellent helpful folks here and a lot of already logged info you can find using search.

To get it loose I have a snapon breaker bar that'll reach over to by the battery and jsut bump the starter. However it's REAL important to get that bold tight on reassembly so yoi're still gonne need to do that.

Welcome to USMB. Don't overapply sealant, no wait necessary. Assemble immediately. I usually let it set overnight to set up before adding fluids/starting it up.

I nominate for the Redneck award of the day!! I love it. And you can just keep sticking any body you like on it.

Welcome to the USMB. I'd suggest removing the ends of the timing belt cover and taking a look. If it's something different than Subaru it's been changed, but who knows when? If it says Subaru and you bought the car without records I'd probably tear into it. Kind of expensive and inconvenient if it breaks or an idler fails.

An oil pump has ONE Oring. WHat I meant was the Oring on each pump (the one you're taking off and the used one you'll be installing) will both be squashed(no longer round) and old so neither will work well. And either will likely break when you try to remove.

Yep - I forgot the Oring. Old ones will be smashed(one on each pump).

Ultra grey. But don't get carried away with it. May need a new crank seal too.

There are a few pics of a ruined harmonic balancer and oil pump in my album here. FOrgot to take pics of the crank end.

See post #7. OP needs to post a pic he takes or find another pic and describe from that pic exactly where his problem(s) are. Until then we can't be much more help.

Yea - do the HG's with OEM while the engine is out! Just a matter of time otherwise and you'll be yanking it again.