davebugs

I use Purolator or WIx myself. For all filters if not OEM. If it's a 2.2 it's not fussy with plug wires. But you can never go wrong with OEM if you have the funds.

It's not cut and dry. If noone else chimes in PM me. Need to swap intakes, perhaps different timing belt, etc.

If noone responds to this by next week PM me. I can share similar experiences with a Forester 99 SOHC being replaced by a 2000 then I believe a 2002 2.5 SPHC from Legacy's.

I'm afraid it may be sounding like a screwed up crank/keyway/harmonic balancer problem from the last person who had balancer off and didn't get it tight. We need to know year, and engine size, miles, maintenance history(and by whom - timing belts and stuff). Edit: I see '03 - Can you confirm 2.5 SOHC?

Had you reviewed threads here before you did yours you would have seen where most of highly recommend NOT to replace the rear main. Bummer. And now you can't even tell how deep it should go to seat unless you have another unmolested engine to look at.

I'd GUESS not because the body styles changed and likely the steering column too although I don't know for sure.

I agree. But probably because you don't normally mess with these. About the only "maintenance" item that causes more difficulties on a Subaru that it's worth. Infact I'm trying to locate the exact tool you're talking about for old air cooled VW rear main currently.

Motive PRESSURE bleeder! Better to "push" than "suck". WOrks great and one person can do the whole job. I suggest getting the appropriate adapter. Money well spent for situations like this.

GG, Tried any of the EZout kinda things? If it's real hard they won't be able to get a grip either. And they would be a PITA to work with in the space available. But worth a shot if you haven't tried. Lots of knock-off's out there. Get a good quality one that will take a ratchet/extension NOT one that requires you to put a socket over it.

Welcome to the USMB. Lots of good folks here and a handy search function to find info already here. The "water pump pulley" is part of the water pump - you need to remove the whole assembly. What are you trying to do? Fix a leak? Do timing belt service?

They are such a PITA I'd never use anything other than OEM.

USMB is a greatplace with helpful folks. And hte search will turn up lots of good info too. Fir a few years I lived at the LaGuardia Marriott and worked at BQE and 30th ave. I miss the food! Especially around FLushing QUeens since that's where I stayed. Even simple places liek the Jackson Hole's. USAir cut back so bad on flights after 911(when I was on a plane to a DoD contractor in MD) that I started to commute weekly with my Diesel VW from Pittsburgh. It was quicker by the time you built in LaQuardia delays. But yea - this is an excellent MB.

Been a while. I think the houseing stays in place. A common sized seal. Just remove drive shaft IIR.

I've had 2 or 3 sets. DOn't like them being directional but still a pretty good tire. I jsut had to buy 2 of something else (BFG's) but wish I could have waited on 2 more ALtimax's. I think they are still a good value.

Now that's a sleeper. Until it starts up anyways.

The electrical expert has arrived!

Or time for new cables. It is amazing how cables can corrode in the middle somewhere from a hairline crack in the coating or something. If the starter, alternator, and battery check out. And no reson to suspect ignition switch, cables gotta start looking good. Edit: That battery needs LOAD tested. Not simply hitting it with a multimeter.

I'm having trouble with your English. As I beleive I stated in the other thread it's too bad that you don't have the back of another engine to look at. I have a few but can't get to them right now. IIR the seal goes in further than flush. But I can't recall how far and don't want to guess but I'm thinking 1/8" or so from memory. But PLEASE get a real measurement before installing the next one. Perhaps someone else has an engine handy and can help you out. DOn't know that a pic would actually be of much help. GD was posting when I was. He says flush, I thought it was a little further in, but it's been a while, so I defer to him. Like I've said the only ones I've ever needed to replace were because someone had already replaced them before.

Or I use a 3" PVC collar so I can constantly look at th inside and the outside. I place a block of wood on it before hitting the wood (old 5/4 x 6" x 6" piece of decking). Caps around me aren't flat on the part you're gonna be hitting. Which could mean to me that the force of the hit may not be distributed evenly. But then again it isn't gonna do in with one hit anyways. You can take the seal with you into the home improvement store to make sure you get whatever fits to drive the seal.

Often you can tell a wheel bearing by turning the wheel and holding a hand on the related spring. Nice to have both sides off the ground at the same time to compare. But again if it's just starting to fail there may not be much vibration to feel. You may just have to run it until it gets worse.

I have rigged a tube, held the bottle in the wheel well to get it above the diff/transaxle and squooze from there. It can make a mess. But without a pump I've done htis on Subaru diff's and old VW transaxles. If you're doing it on a cold day with gear lube it'll be too thick most likely. I actually have an old crock pot in teh garage for heating things liek this up.

Just a thought. I picked up an AC Delco 1/2" ELECTRIC impact years ago. Comes in handy sometimes where elec may be inconvenient but air is impossible. Overall it doesn't do too bad of a job for what it is. I wanna say 60 bucks or so a few years ago.

I buy a larger stub so I don't have to mess with that lateral link bolt - that's the whole idea. If I add up the bearing (a good one - I never go cheap), the bolt and some bushings from what I remember that the bold goes through it starts to get up there in cost. And still a lot of very unpleasant work to do. And cutting with a sawzall and/or burning the rubber bushing off that lateral link bolt isn't a pleasant afternoon. Either way will work. Place your money and make your bet. Just wanted to point out that all the hassle surrounding the wheel bearing job(removal of stub to take to the press) and reinstall is more work than having the bearing swap done by someone with a press.

Run it! It'll start howling some day - perhaps when it's warmer. And I've swapped more rear stubs than front ones. Even with a hub tamer kind of service set there is the possibility of screwing up where the bearing goes in, even screwing it up for future bearings. That lateral link bolt in the rust belt isn't something I wanna mess with at all. The bolts that hold the entire assy on are easier/more accessable to me and more cooperative. Trailing arms and all will come with a complete stub. On VW's I replace the bearings. On Subaru's I install a used stub. It's your car, do what you want. The first time I was gonna just do the RR wheel bearing. After I started chewing at that lateral link bolt and priced the parts that go with the bolt, I decided it wasn't worth it to me. And if the reinstall would have gone poorly I would have been screwed. Not the bearing install but that long lateral bolt. I had the whole stub delivered for like 100.00 with a 6 month warranty. And IMO much easier to install. And no special tools to borrow or buy.

stupid, obvious thought. Sometimes tires that are "feathered" from wear at a certain corner car start to make noise under certain conditions. May be worth rotating for kicks. Doesn't take any money and not much time. If you're gonna recheck the backing plate you're half way there anyways.