davebugs

If you've got parts cars (and even if you don't) I replace that whole rear stub rather than fight that lateral link bolt. I find it easier, less frustrating, and cheaper. You can find a recent thread (and the criticism for taking this swap the stub route) here but it was talking about the front stub. And you're probably correct it's already been replaced. Which swerves into the discussion of whether the last bearing replacement screwed it up and now it'll wear bearings no matter what.

Miles? Too soon to tell. Possibilites of axle or wheel bearing beginnings. Wheel bearings much more common. Try paying attention to sound on gentle(not sharp) bends at speed. That's where I usually notice wheel bearing noise first. Those rear axles in my experience rarely go bad, but a look at rear axle boots may be worthwhile.

I use Fel-Pro for VC gasket set but some here seem to prefer especially the O rings for the spark plug holes to be OEM. I have my own "must haves" to be OEM (2.5 HG's, WP gasket, crank/cam seals) but other things I use either Fel-Pro or OEM for depending on where I'm going next for parts and they include intake, exhaust, and VC gaskets.

I've only had EVAP workarounds when putting Impreza 2.2's in to replace 2.5's in Outbacks. But they were the same issues I'd run into using Legacy 2.2 donors if the EVAP canister was located a different place on the donor as the recipient. The traditional fornt versus back canister location and the associated metal vacuum line plumbing under the intake mostly. FYI often around here the Impreza 2.2's were 100 less that Legacy 2.2's!

For leaking sensors I often use "Rectorseal #5 softset". The crap won't wipe off at all. Not effected by gas, oil, etc. Never gets hard. Tough to wipe off your hands and tools because of this. On stubborn sensors with confirmed good threads (or to assist in getting CRAP to stop leaking) it's my last resort but almost always works. Check your local plumbing/hardware/home center for it by name. Professional plumbers have used it for years. A can will last until you loose it. A few years ago I needed some at my weekend place and belive I bought it in a toothpaste tube at an ACE hardware.

I believe he's fixing the 98. I'm not sure the blocks are compatable to an 04 for instance. I still say the sturdiest and least expensive route is a 2.2.

Yep. You've gone from different years to different models in this discussion. BIG difference! You're probably screwed.

Price a 95 2.2 AUTOMATIC (with EGR!!) engine. It'll be much cheaper that a 2.5. May have to settle for a 96 or 97 and if that's the case you'll need it's Ypipe.

For my money the best, most durable, and cheapest route is dropping in a 2.2. Search around here a bit. Depending on where you are at you can probably get a good running 2.2 for what hard parts are gonna cost for your 2.5. Reseal it and install it, done!

I can't really help. But I'd be willing to bet the head bolts weren't your problem. Add idler set, timing belt, accessory belts. Don't forget to reseal the baffle plate.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87708&highlight=delayed+engagement here is the thread I was thinking of.

That was a specific brand that was working for those folks. To confirm does your trans have a spin on external filter? Somewhat up by the drivers front axle?

The fees at the salvage auctions are gettin gout of hand from all the foreighners bidding online, having them towed to containers, and shipping them to various countries. I swear I've seen broken cars go for more than they are worth fixed at the auctions before all the fees. Cruise CL. I used to run an add in a weekly free newspaper kinda thing (similar to a Pennysaver if you have those in your area) to look for cars to buy and fix or part. The add certainly wasn't free but folks picked up the weekly paper at the supermarket and stuff.

Welcome to USMB. I guess you're in Europe somewhere? Please update your profile so we know what continent/country. If your cars are the same search here for "delayed forward engagement" as some folks here have done well with a miracle cure in a can fixing the delayed engagement on 99's. The air suspension I can't help you with but others probably can.

Pull off the steering wheel. Turn it over. Look at where wheel hits steerig column. THAT'S IT!! Has a little tab that fits into the column.

I thought the MS model was "buy the next crap - we swear it's better!" And folks fall for it every time!

Most cars you nee dto remove the steering wheel because it's kinda on the back. Been a while but I think that's how it is on Subaru's. MUST get same part#. Here is a place that often Legacy's and Impreza's differ. Usually 3 things go throught that ribbon cable. Horn, airbag, cruise. FWIW the Impreza's seem to have a higher failure rate to me than Legacy's on their clock spring. Subaru calls it something else but the common name is clock spring.

Correct - but doesn't help him now... And when you redo it I'd get it from and actual dealer. The depth is important and now you don't know what that should be. On the rare occasion I've had to replace one I use a PVC coupler. Are you sure you've waited long enough for all the old crap to burn off the exhaust?

Good thing you checked! Them OEM parts are expensive!

WIx are excellent. Have you though about breakin oil for your fresh engine? Most symthetics warn AGAINST using them first thing before stuff gets seated and broken in a bit. I've heard folks claim lots of stuff including piston rings never really settling in when putting synthetic in new engines. I have no wisdom. Just wondering if you'd thought about it.

Aren't emission components covered to like 100k? If you are gonna try anything for "catalyst below effeciency" I've had success with Seafoam through a vacuum line. Makes TONS of white smoke though.

I "rent" a front end service set from Advance. I don't always have access to a press. And nothing would piss me off more than having a new bearing go bad because it was pressed in wrong. For a DIY replacing the stub is just easier. And I get a 6 month warranty on the parts I get delivered to me from the JY. I know of NEW bearings that have gone bad before 6 months. Then you gotta wonder if the nuckle got buggered anyways. In short if you don't have all the tools (and I'd say some experience) including a press or hub tamer or whatever the swapout is very easy. Personally I used to do a lot of car work and still couldn't justify a tire machine, balancer, and press. Partly due to the space they take up. Will a used nuckle outlast a properly installed quality bearing - NO. Is the process very simple to swap - YES.

Glad it went well. I find it easier on the front and the back to do it this way.

The full synthetic Rotelly relabeled T6 a year or so ago in the blue bottle is 5w40. I've bought over 50 gallon jugs and that's what it used to day (before T6 was added) and what it says now in the fancier jug that says T6.

Food for thought. An old engine builder told me this years ago. His main business was race engines (and why we were there). He had a 50's Ford pickup seemed all original including engine. My buddy generally ran straight 30 weight. He recommended straight 10 for most uses. And actually preferred the lower viscosity stuff. His overall theme was basically this. It's the part of the engine that doesn't get the oil that fails. Rather than a part that gets oil and the oil not being thick enough. I must admit when they started with 5w30 and stuff I was sceptical too. But I keep this old timers thoughts in mind. It does make some sense. I've had many vehicles go atleast 150k before I sold them using the recommended lighter oils. I do believe it's more about routine maintenance than the brand often. My current DD has 220k and is in excellent health. Then again it's diesel and I use 5w40 fully synthetic in it.