davebugs

And did you look closely at the clutch fork - although this isn't the problem that usually tips the hand for the clutch fork.

It's the cogged idler beside the waterpump that usually fails first.

Thanks for the visuals

Glad you found the search. You realize this thread is 4 years old? Apparently back then I even knew how to include pics!

If you'd update your profile with a USEFUL location there may be a member near you. Who has been through this before. Skip (an old member here) helped me yank my first Subaru engine. And I've helped several others with enigne removal, timing belt jobs, etc. A locaton in the thread is pretty usuless. As is "in the mountains", "up the creek", "tri-cities", etc.

I always pull the engine even though I have a car lift, "engine crane", and transmission jack here at home. I use the opportunity to do any other maintenance. Plugs, wires, timing belt job, cam/crank seals, etc. Never easier to assess and repair the engine than when it's out. By comparison what can you really check/repair on a tranny? As pointed out regardless look at torque converter seating procedure. And a 14mm swivel socket for the nut about drivers axle is your friend. Several procedures here to pull the engine. The one I used to use for DOHC HG precedure was from "skipnospam" at comcast I believe as a guideline.

I guess I should also state that I get mine delivered with a 6 months warranty for my price. As I age (and am now a bit limited) large suspension part removal at a JY isn't as much fun as it used to be. I tend to enjoy air tools for this. Like on the rear stub section I'm happy to have it delivered to my door for 100 bucks. Then I dont' have to mess with that long lateral link bolt at all. My local PnP's prices are now so bad I can get parts delivered to me for about the same price with a warranty, often cheaper. I even know the owner of my closest one (25 minutes away) and don't buy anything there anymore. However that is where I usually take my scrap cars.

Think of what attaches to all the other suspension - the tie rods, ball joints, axle. The hub is included in the nuckle. Someone should have a pic. Or perhaps look for pics of a brake job and you'll likely be able to see it.

I replace the nuckle. I don't have my own press and often things seem to screw up the hub(which screws up the bearing) down the road. Rears I usually pay like 100 for, I recently sold fronts for 50 and they had to remove and put theirs back onto my parts car.

The oil pump "surrounds" the crankshaft. The crank seal is actually in the oil pump housing. All the working parts are below the crank though. Including where the Oring goes.

You could be correct. I recall seeing something like this discussed recently. Kinda stupid thought. The old "good" ones were easily identifiable. If the CRAP looks the same as OEM that kinda bites. And to the OP it's been so long since I did an early 90's I can't even recall if they have the 2" Orings on the heads.

I've only see the black seals leak myself. Never the brown ones. If you have a 95, I believe 96, maybe 97 2.2 then they take the 2" very thin Orings where I said. The small one that came with the crank seal was for the oil pump. I'll have to look back and see where you got your kit. Last I knew theimportexperts seemed to be shipping what looked like good brown seals.

SOme years 2.2's have very thin lets say 2" O rings. One goes behind cam sensor (drivers front on head), the other pass read covered by a plate that looks a little like a boomerang. I doubt they sent you a little oil pump O ring. And I'd assume you can tell a crank and cam seal from an Oring?

Some members are from PA, some have useless location info. First time I had to buy one of those endlinks I was shocked at the price as well. I had sent many to the crusher. Now I have several around here incase I ever need another. For me it was a few years ago and aftermarket(non performance) was I believe 50-55 bucks. It's a nice piece of plastic, but not 50 bucks worth of nice.

Been good in my VW TDI (diesel) for 220k now. Them turbo's run hot and spin fast! Actually lots of folks use it in their gassers. I have not yet. Walmart is best price, sometimes Advance auto parts has it but WM is cheapest.

I KNOW 99.5-2004 VW Golf/Jetta/Beetle/probably Passat 15's will work on 95-99 Subaru's and I believe a freind is running the same wheels on his 01 Legacy GT. But I think they are 5x100 or 5x110 (someone confirm - I forget). In like 2005 VW went with other popular Europeans and went to 5 x 112. So they look like they fit but won't. Remember often it's caliper bracket on the front that's the clearance issue.

theimportexperts usually send one bolt - I think for the idler that was a single bearing and they only send double bearings. And one with the new style tensioners.

With straight 30 weight I"m amazed the MMO even worked. As folks have said don't let it in there too long. I use 5w30 in Suby's no matter the miles, some folks use 10w30 but get that straight 30 outta there. Glad the MMO worked though.

I'm wondering why you had to source bolts - what happened to the old ones? Is it a new WP? If so what kind of gasket and did you put any crap on the gasket?

MMO for sure. Often followed by a "spirited" drive seems to work for me on these lifters.

I've removed a hitch from a 98 and believe this will work. The canister was in the way for removal which means it was probably (re) installed after the hitch was installed. Can't remember more than that.

FWIW I've replaced lots of slaves, never a master. And liek I said slaves can be a pain to bleed. Often with it unbolted and by manually pushing in the plunger helps.

He's good to go.

I've only got a few minutes but I'll call.

The outer one because the harmonic balancer rubbed it? I should have some.