davebugs

Welcome to USMB. Check all vacuum lines. Also be aware the timing belt may be off one tooth. I assume they drove it in to do timing belt (it didn't break on you). I also assume these folks know SUbaru's? Like the fact that the valves can hit each other if they spin cam sprockets with no TB on?

My dealer doesn't even stock the rear main - so be aware it may take a few days. But it should be brown jsut like the crank/cam seals. Based on seal issues with crank/cam with aftermarket I'd go OEM for the rear myself.

Never heard "clicking". Ask about last timing balt and if Water Pump was done then. And figure out how long you're likely to keep the car. A new timing belt, idlers, WP, OEM thermostat(since you'r ehaving issues) new rad hoses and rad should replace virtually everything that could be causing a problem.

I believe you need more than 12 volts at the starter. So we're likely back to the cables/wireing. But go ahead and have starter tested.

I give up.

MAF/Plastic Intake never made a difference for me - I stayed with the 2.5. But back to plugs, wires, etc what BRAND? 2.2's aren't near as picky - but wanna make sore for instance NO Bosch Platinums.

NEVER had a need for a different ECU - jsut sayin'. Simple sutff - plug wires age and brand. SPark plugs name and model - BKR6E-11's IIR are what I've had the most succedss with in a 2.2. The 2 dollar NGK's with the green writing. Note one number different than the 2.5 plugs(I believe heat range). ANy MAF news? Ever change air filter or front O1 sensor?

Sometimes usually if ATF is overfilled it's lke the TC doesn't disengage soon enough. Causing stalling like symptoms. Other than hearing the car's RPM's go way low often noticed by idiot lights, difficulting turning sharp, etc.

Pulling the same engine the second it goes much quicker. I often reuse intake gaskets and usually reuuse exhaust gaskets. Most will tell you to upgrade to metal baffle plate and the matching screws. I alwyas jsut reseal the plastic one. I did have one that was actually cracked. I too use PVC collar on the rare occasion I have to install a rear main. I always do the WP and idlers, crank/cam seals TB and accessory belts.

Yes because crank & cam sensors don't understand what's going on. Or better put simply out of time (literally). SO spark and/or fuel delivery could be off. I'm stepping out for several hours, others may have comments. Good luck.

Still need to check current at the starter. Last timing belt change? You're thinking it's a cranking speed problem and not fuel/air problem?

Very handy item. After seeing Skip's setup years ago I want to modify mine. I work alone and so does Skip. He wired up a little cheap HF winch for an ATV on his. This is genius! With safety in mind he could power either way (in or out) when dropping an engine in a car. I've had the winch for 3-4 years and haven't gotten to it yet. Would save many trips to the unit to raise or lower a smidge when reinstalling the engine. Also engine needs to hang from this to do baffle plate reseal - on an engine stand it's covered up. If you don't have an engine stand that is nice too. And if you didn't get a "load balancer" or whatever they call them that's about the only normal accessory and is needed in my opinion.

And check ATF, sometimes TC issues will cause this. I'd have alternator AND battery checked for free at a chain place.

Sorry. Misunderstood.

Donald isn't his normal name anyways. On the rare occasion you see his "real name" it's Gary. For all I know he's Donald Gary - but he truely does go by Skip(per) and the wife is the "Captain". Now you're giving me incentive to find his Cmas card/letter. I am in cleanup mode getting ready for taxes, lots of catching up to do this year from being laid up a bit. I layed it aside to read and misplaced it. Especially since I'm not sure I saw him at all last year. Guess I should drop him an email.

Yea. I miss his occasional appearance at my garage as well. When he was home lets say late spring I was laid up after an accident and I didn't see him. Great guy. Lots to learn from him. He has the ability to "persuade" rusty stuff to come apart like I've never seen. I have tried to pick up some of his methods and use them now. He's formally "overly educated" as well, but still a good guy. His wife and Skip love the RV vagabond lifetyle in warmer climes. Not a bad life if you can pull it off. I'm happy for them both. INfact if any of you are on any RC MB's I'd be on the lookout for Skip simply because its a "traveling hobby".

A 1" extension and a swivel spark plug socket. Also I prefer a real long extension often. Sometimes it's easier to actually have the ratchet out of the engine bay with like a 2 foot extension ratehr than finding room to turn it in the close quarters. Removal of air box, washer tank highly recommended. Don't forget anti-seize and dielectric grease.

I believe collective wisdom here is that if you take a string (non stretchable string please) and measure the diameter of each tire (yes it takes a little work) and they are all withing 1/4" or circumfrance you're o.k. But the simplest and best is to have all 4 identical and ROTATE them. After AWD is damaged fresh/matching tires won't solve your issue if hard parts have been harmed.

I've got lots of used starters but most are 97 ( a 1 year starter - IIR they are longer). But I should have some from a 96 and 99 around here. PM if interested. I am cleaning up and selling a lot of my Subaru parts. But that catalyst below effeciency do some searching here. I believe that's the one where Ive had good success with Seafoam. Just beware of the white smoke it makes.

I believe I hauled that Brat for him to the fella that painted it. And then to his garage when it was done. I don't think he's ever driven it since. Heck - he hasn't been home. IIR he bought it in Ohio and had it at a place he used to work at sometimes which is where I picked it up. He had been hiding it from "the Captain" for a while.

NO!! Intake won't fit. But you may be able to steal EVAP lines and such from it.

WHo wants to steal a car this old. It's like having weird lug nuts. See if you can remove it and throw it out safely. No good can come of it being installed. If you live in a high crime area just buy extra ammo, or move.

That reminds me. He sent me a letter for Cmas and I set it aside and didn't read it yet. I'll have to look for it. If anything mentions the club I'll post. But the Captain (his wife) and Skip spend most of their time in the Carolina's and Florida and have for several years. Frankly I don't know why they keep a place here anymore other than a place for Skip's stuff. And if he's not home to even play with it... But seriousely they are enjoying their retirement years. Have good folks who watch their stuff while they are gone. I'm happy for them. Skip has mostly moved on to more "portable" hobbies they can take with them. Other than his customized gold cart and trailer he was getting big into RC cars and boats. Skip is how I found out about this site. You can discuss amongst yourselves if that was a good thing or not!

We have adifference of opinion. I prefer the 2 dollar BKR5E-11's I believe. The U groove's with the green writing for DOHC's. Now SOHC's especially after like 2002 or something I prefer the "double platinum" also called "laser platinum". As long as you stick with NGK no matter how fancy you get you're probably o.k. NEVER install BOSCH Platinums in any car thinking there is a benefit. And this is from a VW guy.

NO head bolts Get NGK 2 dollar green writing plugs at the local parts place. Labor not bad. If pulling the engine (I doubt it) reseal baffle plate.