davebugs

Bummer. I don't have enough posts over there. Good luck. They all look good.

Alternator. Infact often ABS and Brake lights light up but ironically not the battery light.

I go to 4 different places depending on what they are paying. All 15-20 miles from here.

Gary, You need to bring your scrap my way after the holidays. Clean alum down to .55(.60 last week - actually .51 to .60 depending on where), dirty alum blocks down to .15, batteries 5.00. No special rate for Subaru cranks though - just probably 12.50 or so just like cars.

Glad you got it out. Even though it should be metal reseal the baffle plate while it's out. And most of us purposely don't do the rear main.

Take the ends off the timing belt cover and look at the cam sprocket TDC marked against the top/back of the timing cover on both sides. If they align (both TDC at the same time) odds are the belt is good (could still have nubbies missing though). But that's an easy first step that just takes a 10mm deepwell for me.

The exhausts(I believe I forget) are magnetic, the intakes not. Just had a fellow come pick un an excellent(no rust) 73 Bug carcass (it was wrecked but still lots usable). He came in a 56 Mack rollback - I like that old stuff! While I was waiting I started breaking down another head and tried the magnet on both the valves. Frankly at some level I'm shocked they aren't the same material since the heat they are exposed to in the chamber is the same. I believe I have the short blocks sold. I have a thread asking how hard it is to break these engines the whole way down without a good response in time or tools for instance. Or if there is a specific road map of how to break it down. Nothing worse than doing something out of order and it causeing problems. Yea - I realize by the time I'm down to the short block there really aren't many parts left. But it would still be good to hear. Perhaps I'll price what that crank scrap is worth. Due to the local steel and machining industry around here the places are used to taking some more exotic stuff in and I'd have to call around about who wold be interested(pay) for that crank if the blocks don't get sold.

I'm amazed that aluminum could take the heat/pressures. Perhaps it's a "special" aluminim. So you just got the same price/lb as cast aluminum then for the valves?

I used to like their MOA (Motor Oil Additive). Not sure about all their products. They supply dealers and garages only it seems. But so does Mighty and I think their stuff sucks.

VW 1.8t's have the sodium filled and require special handling. I'll give some the magnet test tomorrow. I only have the "pickup" magnets for when I drop nuts/bolts on the floor. And some rather strong curved ones from an old VW starter. Thanks for the idea.

I'm planning on parting a bunch of heads to scrap. Mostly DOHC from engines that had HG and/or rod knock issues. 10 or 12 engines. A bare DOHC head weighs just over 17lbs BTW which is about 10 bucks, bare intake weighs 13 lbs, etc. I'm wondering if intake & exhaust are same material. And if it's worth anything special. I have some from Saturns and VW's around but I'll have a decent amount of Subaru valves. Yes I realize they are small and light. I am parting these engines. Mostly 97 DOHC's so if anyone needs heads, cams, stupid stuff like cam cap or their bolts, shims(from a 97 head), that kinda stuff PM me. I usually sell the cam sprockets on Ebay along with harmonic balancers, IAC's, throttle bodies, AC & PS tensioners, timing belt covers, etc. Weird stuff like brackets available, the metal lines under the intake, injector wireing, injectors, fuel rails, flex plate's, well you get the idea. I used to save AC hoses because they are expensive but never labeled them. I sometimes would swap out the AC compressor and lines that matched. But if you need one and can gove me a pic I might have it. I only kept lines from cars that still held a charge. Along with starters, alternators, doubt any good PS pumps. But my question here is are the valves anything exotic and worth setting aside? I tried searching without success "valve material", "valve content", stuff like that. If anyone lives close to Gary Gross I believe he's heading here in the next few weeks to pick up some other heads and would probably consider hauling other parts home for a member if necessary although I haven't asked him. I'll start or update another thread because I do have Outback front bumper assy's, some rad assy's, some doors, etc too. I believe the short blocks are spoken for. All these engines ran when removed.

First check to see if Radiotor is full. Then "let the guesses begin". If it's not full usually those HG's leak slowly and will leave evidence. Usually between #2 & #4 - actually just infront of #4 which is the cylinder infront of you when you're driving. Other things are possible. Check fluid level in radiator and overflow first. If low crawl under and look where I said. Then look over both sides where the head meets the block for evidence. They if all that is good there will be other choices.

You'll want a 14mm swivel socket for the bottom nut above the drivers axle if it's one of the remaining ones.

I believe either 4 or 8, never seen 6. And those dowel's half way down each side. Pitch stopper undone?

CHeck the brand on the HG wrapper. Because if it's some off brand if they aren't leaking now it's just a matter of time.

Welcome to the USMB. Try posting here in the "parts wanted" section. A used OEM mirror is usually the best bet with quality/price especially if someone has the correct color. If you replace one aftermarket and the car is nice often they won't match and that bothers me! So if I HAVE to go aftermarket I buy both.

These usually dont get frothy. Maintenance history? Check radiator after cooled down. Check oil and ATF for discoloration. Radiator failure like you're thinking is rare. HG's very common - but again doesn't make overflow frothy. Makes it full, smell like combustion chamber, and rad itself won't be full.

If he actually LEARNS from this 800 is a cheap lesson. It's YOUR FAULT!!! Ignorance is no excuse. As Reagan said "trust but verify" Seriousely this is a lesson to you. Remember it. Someday it may be more than money that being lazy can put at stake. Or a large sum of money. Learn (whether you fix or junk) and move on but don't forget the lesson.

Welcome to the USMB Transmission issues really are rare. In this case a junk trans is probably how I'd go. Make sure it's outta the same car (gear ratio) or you'll need the rearend too. look at car-part.com to see what this tranny goes for in your area and what that's recyller's warranty is.

I've had success with seafoam on the "catalyst below effeciency" code. Perhaps search for my name and seafoam and P0420 to find it.

The 2.2 is way more durable. It's possible the vacuum issue has from when the swap was done. And how long ago the swap was done and by who. Make SURE is has an EGR on the engine. If he put a 2.2 that's too old in that car you'll NEVER fix the CEL due to the EGR code. Then you're talking a "correct engine" and perhaps matching Y-pipe. And if they weren't smart enough to source the proper engine who knows what else you may hit. LOOK for an EGR BEFORE purchase!!!

SOmeone here is selling Knock's cheap - I think under 30 bucks. The speed sensor I've never done and could be the most difficult and expensive. The IAC used or try and clean yours. Vacuum leaks - well - cheap hose. EGR used. I have IAC and EGR's for sale used if you have none local - PM me.

I have several used sets of both sides that seemed to work when I scraped cars here. They have been stored for a year or so I don't know if that'd screw up any seals.

I'd think contact = bent vlaves. My caution here is one time I had a valve stem with a slight bend that seemed to seat well. Put the head on but guide wear was an issue. Also I don't know about the whole "checking with water" thing. I use gasoline, I'd think it's thinner. And water and heads (other than were it's supposed to be) doesn't sound good to me. If there was contact I'd remove the valves and check. My "budget check" is to chuck them up in a drill and spin them and look for a wobble. It's been a while so I don't recall more than this.

I have 2 kinds. Sunnax? have a pretty good bend before the "loop" part. The cheap HF ones the "loop" is more straight like needle nose.