davebugs

the one on the right is the 96 Impreza I'm parting. Now heads and intake, etc are off too. Here are some of the other engines. This pic is old Gary Gross did get the only 2.5 SOHC I had for parts. This industrial shelving unit has 7 or 8 I believe all 2.5 DOHC's on it or under it. Including a good 99 DOHC I'm not gonna part. A few other running 2.2's floating around (97 and 95) and some other stray 2.5's. A few too bad to consider usable due to rod bearings or I've sold a lot of parts off. an old odds n ends shelving unit of Subaru and VW stuff. The entire Blue industrial shelving unit is now full of parts and engines. And parts are stuffed other places too. The Silver Legacy hood is long gone. But I do have a Legacy and Impreza plain red hood both off 95's. Doors are inside (as well as mirrors, etc.) fenders, bumper covers, radiators are outside. These pics are from my album here and are several years old. I actually have a lot more stuff, and thus stuff to get rid of.

And these engines have always been stored inside. And weren't abused when removed. No wireing cut or other similar shortcuts. So no weird rust or corrosion, water in the internals, etc.

Could be. Most had HG issues, some rod knock. So I did 2.2 swaps. I've got a pile of parts - starters, alternators, coil packs, cam sensors, throttle bodies, some grille's even some doors, fenders, Outback entire front bumper assy's, air boxes and MAF's, cargo covers, etc. So these running engines are just parts to me. When I'd "redo" Subaru's I did a nice complete job and got a nice buck out of them. Had mostly repeat customers or friends of customers. These engines were out of cars that I didn't know about. I wasn't about to just do HG's then have the rod bearings fail on these innocent folks on a few months. So It's time to make some room in the garage and I'm still recovering from an accident. So I'm starting to play with parting these. Stuff to members and Ebay, other stuff I'm just hanging on to for now for kicks. Prefer to sell at a reasonable price but not afraid to scrap stuff. I have no need myself for any of the parts. I had answered some adds for folks looking for 2.5 DOHC's and offered to sell them one for 700 they could hear run. They were too cheap. I told them if it's all about price they could choose from 6 that ran for 300 each that needed HG's or rod bearings. Some folks just don't realize when you're trying to help them or smarten them up. So I'm selling parts. And still curious about just how long it takes to break one down after the heads and intake are off. Gotta figure out what makes sense. A while ago I contacted Delta Cams since I have several sets. Long story short it's simpliest to scrap them.

Correct. IGNORE the ARROWS!! And only pay attention to the crank sprocket tab in the back that has the hash on it (and often a dot on the front that makes it easier but later gets covered up by the harmonic balancer). And the hash marks on the cam sprockets. Using the clamps helps tremendousely too.

WHat I'd do first (and just had to do on one a week or so ago I started a thread about here). Take off both ends of the TB cover. See if atleast both cam sprockets HASHES are at the top at the same time. If not you're for sure gonna have to pull harmonic balancer and do belt. If they are lined up your odds may be better at not needing to do the belt. Always DOTS and HASHES never arrows!! After I pull the tensioner pin and give it a while to tighten I do 2 full rotations (watching a cam mark) and recheck before calling it done.

Just reread you last post. If it totally dies and you have the air box off double check the stiff hose that goes to the IAC that's hard to see with the other crap in the way.

I have the plier type clamps and always save hunks of old timing belt. This lets me clamp the belt on the cogged crank(old belt piece for kicks to protect cogs). Also I do the same on the cam sprockets but heck a clothes pin may actually even be enough for them. As said install the bottom smooth idler last. Last one I did was a bit unplanned and he only had smaller clamps. Since I had the rad out (fan bolts had broken so we removed it to reattach them) he had an Irwin clamp meant for wood the new kind that kinda ratchet with a release. I put the handle facing down and had room. I've done it htis way for many years and it's the simplest way I've found. Don't forget to slide the tensioner LEFT all the way before tightening those 2 bolts. And don't forget to get the crank bolt TIGHT!

Good news. Thats what - about one car payment on a new car?

Welcome to the USMB. Pics please!

I believe Carlson (black and white box mostly) is what my local independent parts store got for me 3-4 years ago. I'm thinking 5-8 bucks at the time. I was amazed soo cheap.

I second the OEM (Brown) crank seal. And oil pump Oring. If you wanna go used PM me. I'm tearing down engines now. Frankly I'll be surprised if yours is bad and the screws aren't loose.

I've never seen one fail - but that doesn't mean they don't. On the 2.5's the screws are notorious for loosening. I rarely have a 2.2 oil pump off but the ones I did the screws seem tight. You'll need Ultra Gray (NO gasket for the pump, and a crank seal. Might as well do a timing belt and investigate idlers, WP, etc. I also usually replace accessory belts since they will be off too.

Can someone confirm or deny this? I have always used the dipstick that matched the pan. But I'd think they would be the same because it's the bottom of the pan that's different.

You mean like those small metal tube sections as part of the coolant system and such? That are really short metal tubing inserts? Or something else? I have a place that'll let them slide. I used to do a lot of Saturn engines. How long for a tear down? Only takes a few minutes for heads, idlers, intake. Go better on and engine stand or on a bench/floor?

It's cleanup time. Locally they ar epaying .60 for clean ALuminum. Most are paying .10 for dirty (stupid when cars are paying .125). I have literally buckets of Suabru Water pumps and may also scrap AC Compressors. But the engines - are they worth total disassembly? WHat they weigh 250-300 lbs minus accessories? I'm probably gonna have 8 Subaru's to do. Just trying to figure out how effective of a use of my time it is. And is any special tools are needed. I see threads from time to time about a tool to oull wrist pins on atleast one rod. Or should I jsu tpull intake and heads and break them down. I just did take in a 92 clean intake - was a whole 9 pounds. If you're wondering the AC bracket was 3 pounts and the AC all aluminum piece infront of the radiator are over 5 lbs each. I went ot a different place then normal with a small load to check their scales. I've learned when hauling cars in they can be off by several hundred pounds so that influences where I go. So any thoughts on breaking these 2.5's(mostly) and 2.2's down far enough to get clean aluminum to make it worth the time and effort? It's also quicker when you literally don't care about the parts. It there a good procedure for total teardown? Thanks.

You should be golden. BOTH should have EGR. Easy enough to double check. Don't forget you'll need the 2.2's Ypipe

A member is now selling aftermarket ones. Search here. They were very reasonably priced. And I'd hope members will comment on their quality as time goes on.

Remove caliper clean slides and pad carriers lube check pads for uneven wear check INSIDE of rotor for uneven wear (replace if necessary) put it all back together it's up to you whether to remove bracket and rotor to clean up the surface where it meets the hub and anti-seize it while you're in this far anyways.

Excactly, and I've never seen one leak at the seal. I've seen baffle plates make it look like the back of the pan was leaking. I've seen pans rusted through. I've never seen a pan leak from the factory ultra grey looking stuff. And it is always difficult to get it started to come off.

Sucks. Atleast you're o.k. I just had to eat an 8k car this year and still physically recovering.

Look for a pic of one or PM me an email and I can send you a pic. I sell these from time to time. Basically under #3 intake you can see it looking from firewall easiest. By bending over the Pass side strut tower. If you don't know what you'r elooking for you'll need to remove the air boxes, etc to get a good view. I sell used ones if you need one - infact a member bought one last week.

Been my observation as well mostly on 95-98 2.2's from Legacy and Impreza's.

I believ eno wories with fit or crossmember celarance. When I get a chance I'll drop you a PM on my health issues. They wanna inject steroids into my neck for starters! Doesn't sound like fun at all!

IIR yes it will I've done it. Slightly different shape on the bottom, perhaps slightly different capacity. It's been a while though so look for a seconded opinion. Ultra-grey to seal. The old ones can be difficult to get started to remove - but it's not so bad when you don't care about it.

Moderators - this needs moved somewhere I'd think.