davebugs

WP's are the same for many years and both 2.2 and 2.5. 97 starters (atleast on the auto's) are different than the years on both sides.

Often is a missfire and no codes it seems to be fuel delivery, timing or valve problem because an electrical issue almost always sets atleast a pending code if not an outright CEL.

I usually sell the EGR and the vacuum piece together because I have had others tell of the same issue. Never experienced it myself. And EGR's are kinda pricey new.

I literally had a new one in my hand the other day and an aftermarket was over 50.00 with my discount. I didn't price shop because I was in a hurry and ended up returning it anyways. I do have those splined crank pulleys if anyone does drill theirs. Of course then they are in essence talkng a timing belt job too. Which sucks if you just started out trying to do the simple job of sensor replacement. I can't really activey work on cars yet (hope to agian someday) but when I work on a Subaru I usually give that sensor a shot of Liquid Wrench figureing it sticks around longer than PB. Then if later someone needs to remove it the odds might be improved. Also a mechanic friend told me that PB is actually corrosive. When working on my VW for me he wanted to spray some connectors to make them easier to seperate. He ended up using WD-40, I told him I use PB when necessary and he told me it's corrosive. And it could well be for all I know. I literally buy it by the gallon. Can you imagine trying to do this as a roadside repair? Could be a very unpleasant surprise. I have witnessed this sensor being the cause of occasional no start condition with no codes several times. So if your car doesn't always start - I'd start soaking it down!

I just had this happen on a 95. I started a thread about it. Anyways for curiosity's sake see if the prior mechanic slid the tensioner all the way to the left as you're supposed to. I unbolted mine before checking and thinking that may have been the problem because the belt was in good shape yet.

Congratulations. I didn't think there was much room under it. Did you anit-seize it or just figure you'd never have to replace it again? They are a PITA though. Even on parts engines where access is easy and timing isn't critical they are tough. Lets put it this way I have removed and sold or broken all the crank sensors from parts engines. They are the worst thing on a Subaru engine itself I've tried to remove that I can recall. Atleast it had a happy ending.

Oops - you called the thread 2.2 stumbles. 2.2 are less finicky about wires. Not that the ones installed still may not be very good quality.

If it's a 2.5 (you didn't specify) and they installed generic parts store coil and wires funny as it sounds that may well be your problem. I just had my first 2.2 "jump time" this week. I guessed they forgot to slide the tensioner over before tightening. Pulling both timing covers as you're planning to do will go a long ways on that one. But - just because somehting had been repaired, doesn't necessarily mean it was done well, or with proper parts. Often it's the chapest or highest margin for the garage.

Good news. It really isn't difficult at all. Your coil sex is really rather rare.

Also the coil off the old engine should work (generally 2.2 and 2.5's seem to be the same) and just get different sexed plug wires. Unfortunately the OEM plug wires are highly recommended on a 2.5 and somewhat pricey. If the 2.2 plug wires will reach no harm in trying unless someone else pipes in with a no.

I've had that happen with the coils. Luckily I have enough parts around. If you swap coil and wires you're golden from another 2.5. From a 2.2 I'm not so sure. WHen I've done this the coil connector to the ignitor was the same, but the sex of the plug wires was different. You get in a jamb let me know. I'm putting stuff on Ebay and believe I have a box dug out with coil and pretty new factory wires - don't remember the sex of the coil but doesn't matter if you've got the matching wires. And I should have many sets of coil and plug wires that are the normal ones.

On phase II's 2000 or so 2.5 and 2.2 intakes are interchangable as suggested in #2?

Remove rotor and pads and see if the caliper swings down properly. If not you'll know whether to go after the pin or piston. You really should take it all apart, clean it, and lube it well. Part of a good brake job anyways. ANd you already know it wasn't floating properly.

You're sure it's a pin problem and not just that the piston needs compressed more? You did take it all apart and lube the pin and slide? Or you were trying to just throw on some pads? Without servicing the pad shims, carriers and such? I can't tell for sure from what you've posted. It's been a while since I've done a brake job so I may not be able to help. But being I'm not absolutely clear on what your problem is and others may not be either.

Clean an lube!! I use I beieve PS pump bolts from cars I've sraped to put in the rotors to in essense push them off. They get mushroomed on me so I don't use a bolt that I truely need. I can picture the bolts I use and the threads don't go the whole way to the tip. If you can't find the taped hole we're talking about you may have really generic rotors on the car.

I'm thinking there isn't enough room under the sensor to dirll it then put an anchor in it and pull. I'd imagine you'd be hitting the crank.

The whole bottom is one piece metal sleeve. And that's what corrodes.

Welcome. Lots of useful info here but typically for the non performance related. More like serious folks taking care of their own cars. From maintenance to major repairs.

They suck! Get all corroded in there. Had you posted before hand folks would have suggested you start spraying it down first. Increases your odds but they still do break regularly. I usually have a nub left and hose pliers work. I realize you're screwed and don't have any good suggestions. I'm just telling you this isn't uncommon so don't beat yourself up.

Please stick to one (or two) threads. I swear I just saw someone already answer this. More threads certainly isn't the answer. Search Wait patiently on the thread already started.

Yep - nice pic. The little hockey puck thing with the green and white sticker I believe is hte vacuum for the EGR. The engine will either have both pieces or neither. You need it to have them.

Yes - you'll get 4 large Oring gasket that are for the spark plug holes. While you have the plug wires undone you may want to consider a spark plug change.

Exactly. I prefer a 1/4" rotohead ratchet and a 10mm deepwell myself.

Appreciated. And you never know a member here may be close and be able to help you out or point you to someone local who has done this before. It takes less than a day. All the electronics plug right in. Only thing you'll be missing is a place to bolt the PS lines to on the passenger side of the engine at the intake. I am assuming both engines have EGR which is a pretty safe bet. The 2,5 for sure has it - look on back of engine towards drivers firewall for a hocky puck looking thing with green writing on the top. Make sure the 2.2 has it too and you're golden. Odds are very high that a 98 2.2 has this. If the 2.2 does not have this you will never be able ot get the CEL out - which means it won' tpass emissions if you need them.

Not bad at all. Personally I don't care I usually just get FelPro kit. Most things I get at the dealer. Don't overtighten the bolts. When you have them out you'll see they are shoulder bolts. SO they go from easy to tight pretty quick. I use the ratchet in the palm of my hald and ge tthem as tight as I can that way because I'm not anal enough to fing the torgue spec and then use a torgue wrench. When you have it apart it'll be pretty obvious how they work and you'll see why over tightening isn't necessary. Actually a very easy job on a SOHC. Good luck.