davebugs

Rather easy actually. You will need the Y pipe from the new engine (the 2.5 had a dual port exhaust and the 2.2 I believe will have a single port exhaust). Search aroubd here - a very common swap. New timing belt, seal baffle plate, most of us would do atleast timing belt idlers and probably seals while it's out. You do the major maintenance and the engine should be good for another 100k.

The saga continues. I may start a new thread. They had an idle problem. Somewhere along the line someone thought the original problem was the MAF and had left something loose or off. Now they say even though they push buttons the heat always hits them in the face. hot/cold selector does work I am searching now. But what I see is after folks get buttons unstuck usually the problem is resolved.

UPdate! Timing belt had jumped. Pass cam sprocket lined up, crank almost aligned - maybe off a tooth, drivers cam sprocket off by an inch. All cogs still on NAPA belt. Car had 135k. The end of the tensioner was very clean - like perhaps they forgot to push it to the left as you're supposed to before tightening. New timing belt on. Tomorrow they let the crap burn out of the engine and exhaust, check coolant. Hope all is well.

Forgot about the scanner because I'm usually working on "dead" cars with no codes and unabkle to run to generate a code. I'll add that to my list!

Here is the deal. I sold this car to a freind for his son. Kid says driving along and car stopped. Since my accident I can't "redo" cars anymore so maintenance hsitory is unknown - like 150k I believe. So I'm gonna take ignitor, coil (I only have 97 coils left I believe), cam sensor, pickup a new crank sensor, fuel filter(car had a full tank), plug wires (just because I have a nice set and I may ruin what's on the engine when diagnosing) used idlers, etc. Local garage quoted 500 and 2 weeks for Timing Belt change. I had him ask them to take a cover off and look and they say a cam sprocket doees move. I'm taking my harmonic balancer homemade tool too. More concerned with diagnosing and possible swap of easy parts. But don't know if I'm physically up to doing a TB job especially at someone else's garage. My plans are to: Crank car and see if it spins "too fast" Check for SPark CHeck timing belt (take off other cover end) COuld be on but cogs stripped so I'll check both cam's alignment After that I'll either persue fuel or scratch my head a bit. Not smart enough to check cam and crank sensor with meter. So I'm jsut gonna "work at it" a bit looking for the usual suspects. But if anyone has any bright ideas they are welcomed. Gotta round up tools, parts, pain drugs and travel 60 miles to the car.

Do some searching and reading here. Often discussed. I'm one of the ones wh advises AGAINST replacing rear main. I've seen the backside of over 100 Subaru engines. ALWAYS reseal baffle plate. Only had to replace 2 rear mains. Know what they had in common? Both had been replaced before. I'm typically working with 95-99's with 110-190k.

How is the trans? Fluid good level and clean? Could be fighting a TC issue. There may be a homebrew test for a TC test - I don't know.

Fix it (at a different place). You'll never find a car you know as well for near that price. If you buy another used car you'll really be starting over. You'll want an older (read - less valuable) car for the kids anyways.

PM coming

That'd what I was thinking. Espacially if you can find a car with the engine already gone. It's more time/effort or more money. Take your pick. Or "how cheap are you?"

I could never find one of the smaller lines on top of the TB to work. I actually pour the Seafoam into a apray can top (brake clean, spray paint, etc) that is a light color so I can tell how much is in there and how much is getting sucked up. I'm usually "fixing" a catalyst below effeciency code and this has worled for me well.

I use the brake booster hose - and pay attention because it's pretty big.

My local dealers used to actually recommend used. Rebuilds they had trouble with, rebuilt kits they didn't like for soem reason. They would actually instlal used ones - one of the few used parts a dealer would actually willingly install.

Knowing the year, engine, and miles might help someone have an opinion.. But I usually go OEM for sensors. Heck I usually even buy OEM O2 sensors.

Reuse head bolts. I've never bought new Subaru head bolts. Maybe because the torqueing procedure is probably the most bizarre I've ever done. It seems the 2.2's are less finicky about HG's but I'd still get OEM because they really aren't much more.

I prefer OEM for HG's and cam/crank seals and WP gasket. Mos tof us get theimportexperts idler kits and they come with a timing belt. Their cam/crank seals didn't look bad and were brown like OEM on akit I got for a friend. I do accessory belts too since they are aff and new spark plugs. If the engine is out I ALWAYS reseal the baffle plate.

Posting the year, engine, and miles might give us a clue....

Around her ehte chain auto parts stores have a waste oil tank and ATF is basically the same so that's where mine goes. Also lots of independent shops and dealers heat with used oil and are typically happy to get it. Heck - even check Craigs List often folks are looking for free waste oil.

Actually when I remember I get the PS one 1/2 inch longer (add 5 to the Dayco part# called for IIR) and get the AC one 5 shorter. If you notice sometimes I have to undo the PS bracket some to get the new belt on. And on the AC side the called for belt - well the tensioner is usually pretty close to fully extended. I just keep a WP box with the old sleeves from the accessory belts, the NGK U groove spark plugs(for DOHC), the TB sleeve in it for the local parts store. I just hand them the box for them to grab the parts. I also get a tube of Ultra Grey if I'm out. At the dealer cam/crank seals, WP gasket, and if a HG job HG's and maybe intake & exhaust gaskets. Felpro are fine for me for intake & exhaust but OEM are about the same price so if I'm there I just get them. And coolant conditioner. When I "redo" car to sale I also do air, fuel, oil & filter and coolant. I also service the transmission. At 100k (or roughly a TB change) I think every car should have the fuel filter changed. Just make sure you get the crank pulley/harmonic balancer TIGHT! Good luck.

I like the OEM cam/crank seals and WP gasket myself. I buy a WP with metal impellar. Lots of us here use theimportexperts kits with good success. I always get a name brand belt though from them or local. They claim the MishubOshi belts are origanl manufacturer but they have other options and you have other options local. I've installed a lot of timing belts on Subaru's but never a Subaru belt! Now is the time to replace the accessory belts too while they are off.

There was an article linked on Yahoo this weekend about some EU folks realizing what effect (distortion) the "renewable fuels are having on food supply - especially for the hungry folks in 3rd world countries. If I have time I may look for it. But yes folks, it's ALL Politics. No benefit - actually harm.

Often a good operator with the fancy Snap-on scanner can check that reading to see if it's out of whack. Don't forget there are 2 coolant sensors, one for the ECU and one for the dash( a spade terminal under #3 intake) it seems.

If those were all quality parts I've seen coolant temp sensors cause this on other (non Subaru) cars.

Im trying to get stuff on Ebay tonight and I have 2 IAC's pulled as some of the items to list. One off a 97 2.5 one off a 96 2.2 but htey should be the same. PM if interested. These engines ran is all I know. I started them before removing the engines.

I had this exact problem with a 2.2 swap I did a few years ago. He tried both sensors (cam and crank) with used ones I had and I believe he did cam first and after crank no more problems. Crank sensors can be hard to remove here in the rust belt though.