davebugs

Lets put it this way. If one is broken I can buy the car awful cheap. And they should be mandatory in my opinion when doing a clutch job. For a few bucks they are in there deep, just replace them.

I believe they do. WHen I did my swap both engines had EGR.

I've done similar and think you'll be o.k. If noone knows for sure I'd say youi're o.k. I did an 01 Outback into a 99 Forester SOHC. The timing belt was different, I used the intake off the Forester, but all worked well (after 3 engines it all worked well that is).

Post up a pic or email someone. I have a lot of those bolts and parts here. Working on stripping a 97 2.2 now that had HG issues. Or PM me for an email to send pic to.

Read here about burping before you start the drain/fill.

Welcome. I don't know of anyone in your area but someone else may be able to help. If you decide to do it yourself the folks here are very helpful.

I'm thinking was never burped properly perhaps.

I'd probably star twith knock sensor.

The used heads. GG I'm heading down your old way to pick up a TDI today Woodbridge VA

YES - actually you can usually get the engine out with it attached, but not in. Just remove the bolt at the end/trans end.

I recently found out that PB is supposedly corrosive. So I wouldn't use it as a lube. Strickly as a penetrant. I found out when having work done on my car and my friend asked for WD40 to spray on some electrical connections before removal. He says PB is corrosive so to never use it on wireing connectors. And if you read the can of WD40 you know it's the opposite. I still don't think of WD40 as any kind of a penetrant though. But it worked on the wiring connectors in my car with over 200k in the rustbelt.

Correct. ALWAYS replace them both when you're in there. I believe they are actually called Throwout Bearing clips - but not sure.

Yea - my VW TDI is cerainly interference too and you wouldn't think so by reading that link. It my observations I'd think a blanket statement like anything made after 96/97 is LIKELY to be interference based on VW and Subaru experience mostly.

Your friend needs a new book. Or was looking at a 96 or earlier 2.2 engine. Expensive thing to be wrong about this.

That puppy is TIGHT for a reason!! Make SURE you get it TIGHT again when you're done. I ave a tool to hold it - but so use the starter method when I have too. My long snap-on breaker bar jsut makes it to over by the battery tray.

FOr clarity what year? It's probably a bolt - and is standard threading L to loosen.

7/8 srwnch or special sockets (I kinda like the box end/open wrench combo most of the time. Soak it down good, have patience - and a hammer for the wrench.

I've always had enough parts to make them work. SOmetimes requires an additional T or a small plug to be installed in the intake about #3. If you get stuck drop me a PM. I'm debating about parting a 97/98 (I forget but it'll be written on it) 2.2 that should have all of that on it. Actually thinking of isting the heads if they are o.k. car had HG issues(traditional HG issues not Subaru specific HG issues). I also have an intake from like a 92 here all stripped down and I cpould send you a pic of those little metal lines that hug the intake. I won't be back for several hours though

I've never needed a slide hammer to remove a pilot bearing. Buy yea - the scothbrite pads you got are what can be used on the flywheel. ALthough I almost always have it machined myself. A spurt of warmth heading your way, cold again tonight. Froze here overnight (first real frost) and coming again tonight.

I won't be around for a bit but 2 things. Did you pull the lower hose to begin with - and fill through the top rad hose as the video and burping instructions here say to do? An air pocket (the EXACT reason for following burping instructions) could be causing hths. Have you run it long enough to open the thermostat (assuming that it has one and i'ts good). Have the fans kicked on?

I have those "flex joints" in the exhaust fixed regularly at a local INDEPENDENT shop for 40.00. Don't know about the rad. AC was somewhere between laziness and not knowing that it didn't need to be undone. I've done a lot of these swaps. I'd think the HVAC thing is mechanical (as opposed to a fuse) an dunrelated. I jsut say that after pulling a lot of those to fix the HVAC bulbs. Actually usually it's minor issues with vacuum lines and valve cocver breatehr hoses usually. I've never had one with an issue really.

My "high tech" rear main seal installer is a PVC coupler - just like I use for crank & cam seals with a block of wood over it to help lets say - center the blows of the hammer especially when starting the install.

If not getting it serviced grab some sctoch brite discs to touch up the flywheel too.

Great advice. A lot of us here have been through this many times.

Pull the lower hose from either but I find disconnecting the hose from the water pump plastic piece the easiest myself. The lower rad hose at the rad the clamp is often difficult to get at.