davebugs

Don't know how to describe it properly. But no - no need to mess with lateral bolt at all - that's why I do it that way. From (my poor memory) an arm attaches a couple feet towards the rear diff and infront of the rear axle. I undo them there.

I just buy the whole "stub" for like 100.00 - I don't even do rear wheel bearings, just replace the whole deal. Too late for you to go that route. But I highly recommend that approach, atleast here in the rust belt.

I did reread this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=125902&page=3&highlight=mice I have a weird situation. I have a VW GTI (and I found out VW uses Peanut oil in their wire insulation!) that has been setting at a place with junk cars and such. So I figure it's infested with mice. I plan on having it delivered to me and placed on my lift (or as close as we can get it) since the rear end was almost ripped off the car. In the same garage as the lift are a half dozen antique VW's. So with htis GTI setting in a place where it's probably infested and wanting to get the mice out of the GTI BEFORE bringing it into my garage what are some idea's? Unfortunately my friend isn't reliabel enough to have him drop it outside then come back later to get it onto the lift. No I don't have a cat and the only neighbor with a cat - well the cat is kinda old and doesn't come over here much.

On some cars that could be the alarm as well then. Does it have an alarm - and OEM or aftermarket? Checking connections on power to the ignition and starter, then to crank and cam sensors would be my first things.

several things - coil, crank or cam sensor

I've fixed several "wobblers" myself. Infact I believe there are some pics of one we did in my gallery. Never have seen bad crank threads myself.

Yours should have come with the metal seperator plate which increases the odds of NOT leaking. Yours could still be leaking htough. Do some searching here. Especially if you have someone else do it they'll wanna replace the rear main seal. My opinion (and a popular opinion here) is DON'T DO IT. The only ones I've ever replaced leak because someone already replaced them. Do the baffle/oil seperator plate and don't touch hte rear main. If you "do it while I"m in there" this is a rare case where it's better left alone. This leak runs down the back of the pan and makes it look like the pan is leaking and gets on the exhaust. Again I've never had a pan leak - unless it was rusted through. They are glued to te block real well at the factory.

I believe there is still a painted part of front end in your way right down the middle that is welded in. I'd actually be impressed if the threads are shot. I've fixed several where the last timing belt the crank bolt wasn't tightened enough. I also believe I saw a procedure here where someone drilled through the harmonic balancer and crank shaft end and put a rollpin in.

I have a list and still pull the engine. I still find it eaier and more opportunity to review the status on the engine.

Search here too. If this is the "catalyst below efficiency" code I've had excellent luck with Seafoam. And frankly have never had a car Seafoam and/or a non-fouler didn't "fix".

I find the engine much easier. I ALWAYS reseal baffle plate on a '95. Also check it over for VC gaskets and such. The 2.2 isn' tbad to work on it ht ecar - but nothing is easier than when it's out! It's also easier to pick up on other items that may need serviced.

Boxter/Subaru 2.5. Add that to my "project wishlist"

Axle removal is overkill. A 14mm swivel for hte one by drivers axle is handy. search for "skipnospam" probably my favorite starting point when other ask about the whole procedure.m IIR his is slicghtly older so you'll have 8 eng/trans bolts and he had 4 - no biggie. A "roto head" 1/4 ratchet - snap-on, gearwrench, Harbot freight is easiest for me for flex plate bolts - and a cheater pipe. I remove radiator and put cardboard/wood over AC rad thing. Make sure OEM HG's and that you get crank bolt TIGHT.

The search function here works pretty well and this topic has been covered many times. I believe the concensus is all 2.5's and 2.2 starting in about 97. I think folks say that the 96/97 you can tell by the angle of the spark plugs which are interference. But if you search you will find more difinitive info.

Not interested in shipping at this time. I have one single port and maybe 6 dual port Y pipes here.

I have one left if you're up for a drive. If you need any other parts I probably have them too. PM me.

I doubt you go tthem in far enough then and won't be able to tighten the Y pipe and gasket down properly. I'd remove them and turn them around. Anti-seize is your friend(to make it easier next time. I save those studs because they are mor ehtan you'r think (jsut like ht ecoated nuts form the dealer). If anyone close needs some drop me a PM because I have them in my parts bin from cars I've scrapped. I do believe al lmy local parts stores stock studs that'll work. But I do go to the dealer for the studs and those expensive nuts used on exhaust, motor mounts, and eng to trans. They just dont rust/deteriorate much and it makes it nicer for the next fella.

You'll probably "see the light" on the entire rail replacement when you try and remove an individual injector sucessfully. Soaking and hose clamp pliers help but not an easy job usually. Just replace the whole rail.

Actually it's a common problem/solution on other cars. I used to buy a lot of Saturns cheap due to this. Install eht enew redesigned CTS and often drive the car home. ALso there are 2 CTS's on a Subaru I believe. Because one time I left the one with a spade terminal around #3 intake off when doing a HG job.

found my answer http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=121388&highlight=interchange

SOmeone is on their way to pick up a 95 Legacy L sedan and oil pan (near dipstick) and PS lines (ruber and metal) are leaking bad. I'm physically unable to lif tthe 2.2 and 2.5's I have here to compare pans. IIR the shape is a bit different but capacity is the same and they are interchangeable. Like from a 97 2.5 onto a 2.2 - no crossmember or other issues? quick help if possible please.

Respectfully you are misguided. The 8k claim was from the independent gas retailers association. You CAN'T ship Ethanol in a pipeline because of CORROSION! In your BTU calculation you forgot trucking the corn to the plant, the LARGE volume of water that is uses(the next crisis is water), the byproduct produced and trucking the ethanol (since it can't be piped) to be distributed. This also doesn't include the CO2 produced which is a whole additional story. Don't believe me. Infact run the highest concentration of Ethanol in everything you can. Especially engines that set around a lot, or are air cooled, or old engines (typically carbeurated). Gotta run. Between Obama and the Europeans the market is crapping out again. Please point me to an independent study that says Ethanol DOESN'T cause corrosion (mostly as a result of drawing moinsture). Because I'm about done trying to educate you. I'll settle for evidence that they are shipping it through normal pipelines. Ethanol was one of the primary reasons Buffett bought the railroad - corn in, Ethanol out - all needs transported. All Ethanol is bad. CORN based Ethanol was necessary to buy votes. But seriousely look at Brazil who perfercted this long ago with sugar beets and grasses and other "biomass waste". And lately they have seemingly been backing away from Ethanol. And there was an Ethanol thread here. We should probably keep this to Seafoam. If you want to discuss things in the Ethanol thread or start a new one feel free. When I have time we can discuss it there. Have a nice day.

Ethanol is CRAP. Draws moisture which causes most of the problems. Takes more energy to produce than is generated when it is burnt. SO corrosive it can't be shipped through pipe lines. Have you seen how it's distorted corn prices - all because Obama wanted to buy Iowa's votes? In Brazil (WAY aead of us) they use sugar beets. But sugar beet farmers aren't in the first state that votes in the US primaries! I invest a lot. Are you aware it cost 8k to retrofit each fuel pump to make them so Ethanol didn't ruin them? Someone asked what about our cars if it does that to the pmps. The answer was buy a new car!! Seriousely. Talk to any independent (not Lowes or HD) small equipment shop. Been ruining chain saws, week wackers, etc since it started being forced on us. Infact I'd argue this is where problems were first noticed. Do just a little research on Ethanol. Take off your tree hugger hat and put on your thinking cap. In the end you should actually come to the same conclusion even if you keep your tree hugger hat on! You just gotta do a little research and think a little bit. Never believe what a politician tells you. As Reagan said "trust, but verify" at the minimum. You can search here for the spark plug non-fouler trick to be used as a spacer for the second O2 sensor (which has nothing to do with how the engine runs.

Often clears it up. But the Ethanol is truely crap. I usually just use the brake boost vacuum line. I gave up on finding one on the throttle body to work properly. I keep dumping it into a lid from a paint can so I can see how much it's sucking up - highly scientific. Follow direction on the bottle. Do somewhere out of the way. Makes a cloud of white smoke - the neighbors may call the fire department. Usually lasts atleast several thousand miles if not longer. Haven't been messing with Suby's lately (or any cars due to car wreck) but it used to work very well. Between Seafoam and the "spark plug non-fouler" trick a lot of emissions related stuff is curable without major expense.

Excellent for catalytic converter "underperformance" issues.