davebugs

Welcome to the USMB. Lots of good folks and info here. That's a bleeding screw for your radiator. Never seen one like that. If you can't get it to seal you'l need a new radiator. If the rad isn't full be hesitant to drive the car. And if you have been driving it there is probably now an air pocket that can cause significant damage through overheating the engine. Search here for "burping procedures". CLiff notes version is remove lower rad hose and drain the coolant, reattach lower hose, fill through upper hose until it won't take any more, then fill through rad opening.

I have always used OEM cam/crank seals. I also happen to like their WP gaskets but last kit I bought the WP from theimportexperts and the WP gasket was the OEM style (rubber coated metal) and seemed quality.

All it takes is a 10mm to pull I believe 3 bolts per side on the "ears" of the front covers. I use a 1/4 drive roto ratchet with a long socket. See if the hakh marks on the cam sprockets line up with the back of the timing belt cover on BOTH SIDES AT THE SAME TIME. That'll give you some information. Actually to fully check it you need to remove a bunch more stuff then the harmonic balancer and middle section of the timing belt cover. Compression check is best to check for valve damage. But visually checking the TB for alignment first is needed. Otherwise you may cause more damage.

I've heard them mentioned. I've had good luck and service from theimportexperts who I learned about here at USMB. Prices are similar to the place you had issues with. I've bought a lot of timing components from them. Occasionally have an issue - which they handle well, quickly, and fair. Had a problem a week ago. Shorted a part in the box and the "makeup shipment" arrived 4 hours after the job was done. Handled quickly and well the return of the items. No personal experiance with their cam/crank seals but I've mentioned here I did get them when getting an idler set for a 2.5 SOHC for friends but we haven't done the install yet. Seem to be the same materials and construction as OEM when I looked them over. Sucks when parts fail. There is a known bad supplier of VW diesel timing components with many store fronts - and they are all "Prothe". And those used engines are like 4k. Folks "save" maybe 100 bucks buy buying this guys crap. They find the TDI forum after major damage from the kit. Kind of like folks discover this site after overheating issues. Annouing enough when you're doing the work. When you're paying someone else it's even worse.

Having a little trouble understanding what you're saying in this thread and another one recently. You mean an idler failed? Cam sprockets were o.k.? Valve damage seems to be imminent. But you can always hope you're the one lucky guy. I sell those plastic cam sprockets for the R side head and used idlers occasionally to folks thinking they are lucky. They need the cam sprocket anyways after they have the head fixed. Usually it's the cogged idley by the WP that fails - but not always. I've seen the old single row bearing one on the bottom fail too. Just don't recall anyone being lucky...

I use a local degreaser (Buster) and gravel (because they are mixed sizes) I scoop up in the driveway. A trick I learned years ago when doing a gas tank coating kit on an old VW beetle. Remember when shalking there is a small hole that'll leak and it always seems tough to keep a finger covering it and still sake vigorousely(sp?). Someone I mentioned this to years ago was an apartment dweller and bought aquarium gravel and said that worked. This reminds me to list some of these on Ebay. I try and keep 2 clean ones ahead. Can't belive folks do HG jobs and leave the crappy overflow bottles looking so bad.

May be a good guess. I had a freind (a Subaru tech) do a timing belt job on his daughters car. Got weird cam/crank sensor codes. We ruined 3 cam sensors pulling them out of other engines. Tried a different cam sensor too. Eventually he did remove timing belt covers and confirm it was off a tooth or two. Car isn't stmart enough to tell you outright timing was off. But it did realize crank and cam inputs were non-standard. And he had probably done thousands of timing belt jobs as a Subaru tech for 20 years. I'd start by pulling front timing covers on both sides.

I believe Sta-Bil makes a product to spray into your spark plug holes that is liek a fog to coat the while cylinder and not just the bottom. Never used it, don' tknow if a Subaru has enough access to do it. I'd definately stabalize the fuel. I do in all my antiques. And the Ethanol gas is really BAD in general and especially when a vehicle sets. Alchohol draws moisture. Most folks seem to think the Marine Sta-Bil does better with Ethanol. It's green instead of red, I think I got a bottle at Walmart.

I haven't gotten any in a year or so but with my discount (which isn't that much) I think they were all under 10 bucks each. Aftermarket are a bad idea - especially black ones. Did get some for a froind with an idler kit from theimportexperts that look good and brown like OEM but not installed or tested yet.

I parted a car a few years ago that I think the hitch and the woreing adapter both came from etrailers.com, may be worth a shot. If not call your local RV dealer or even Uhaul.

Update your profile with your location so it displays on every post. I believe there are some members in Wisconsin, just don't know which part of the state.

Asking price has a major effect on whether it's worth it or not. I sell Outbacks with higher miles than that for decent money after I've redone them. But Outbacks don't typically get abused. And often the only real neglect is denial about a HG issue. Usual stupid stuff. Are all tires the same size, if you turn sharp does it have torque bind, look for fluid leaks, evidence of recent repairs, etc. I'm hardly a WRX expert so hopefully folks that know them better than I will comment. But miles alone on a Subaru don't mean much in my opinion, but it does effect price.

Miles don't kill them. Abuse and neglect does. And a WRX is high on both of those lists usually. Welcome aboard. This may not be the best site for WRX stuff, but is the best site for serious help and suggestions that I've found. I do believe some regulars have WRX's.

Works just fine in a jamb. But my concern is getting the crank bolt tight again. BAD things happen when it doesn't get tight enough.

I sold a small pile of cats yesterday. The guy I sell my cats too pulled an aftermarket out of the pile - worhtless for precious metals. He says the exhaust places tell him most aftermarket's are meant to last about a year. In other words ot get you past THIS inspection. FWIW I have had luck with Bosal on VW's. Never needed to buy a cat for a Suby.

It was here on this USMB forum. That should cut it down a bit.

Search. There was a thread about this a year ago I remember. Dealer vs. the corner vinyl shop vs paint I believe.

I use used if I have one. But I take them to be flushed and pressure tested and that costs a few bucks. If I need one I don't have I buy new. You're looking for 2.2 but if the rad is from a 2.5 usually they are full of crap from HG issues and miralce cures to try and fix HG issues. Only additional work is removing the fans and stuff. So you may want to do that and make sure it goes well before ordering new, though I've never had a problem with a Suby.

Actually it's the heater core and other parts you should worry about, the WP and thermostatares easy. Depending on what exact kind of sealer it is you should bypass the heater core in any car. On Subaru's I just fix the real problem.

IIR atleast the green ones are diagnostic ones and should be unplugged for daily driving.

That one can be a bit difficult to remove and replace that boomerang piece.

I didn't understand the difficulty with either that thin Oring or the cam seal on the drivers side. Thought perhaps I was missing something.

Make sure it's the HG - what makes you think so? Usually 2.2 HG's burn white like a traditional HG issue. If it's on oil leak, it's probably an oil leak and not a HG. More likely valve cover or if appropriate spark plug hole Orings, or the 2" thin cam Orings, or other seals(crank/cam) - as pointed out in prior post. I NEVER replace rear main seals, unless they have already been replaced because when replaced they seem to leak. I ALWAYS reseal the baffle plate if I have the engine out. Most folks think it's the rear main (which it isn't) when it's really the baffle/oil seperator plate. Dealer crank & cam seals. Most folks still check oil pump screws on 2.2's although I've never found any loose like on 2.5's. Oil pump Oring. If you think you have an oil pan leak it's probably the bafflle plate. 14mm swivel socket for lower drivers side nut.

Welcome to USMB. No specific thoughts but Marvel Mystery Oil seems to do noisy Suby's well in general after lets say a HG job or engine swap. Guess one would have to determine if the problem is a bent valve or something else from inside the cylinder, or outside the cylinder - sludge, cam, etc. Did the dealer do a compression check? What makes them have that diagnosis? Have the HG/s been done yet? I'm thinking perhpas someone didn't get it done right. Does it have a new timing belt on it - like someone was in there messing? Just some thoughts.