davebugs

Doubt it'll help mileage. Aren't you glad you asked here for advice? Saved an expensive repair.

When you buy the pipe you get the pipe. Those screws buy the fuel cap can be a bit stubborn, I use an impact to get them out. You may wanna try and see if you can get them loose first. Grab a new hose clamp or two while you're thinking about it for atleast the big hose.

Some folks state that some Felpros are really Mitsubishi(Subaru) gaskets. They cost about the same, not worth the risk. Even if true in the past Felpro could change their source at any time. Cheap HG failures have often been quick. And each overheating takes more life away form rod bearings and such. I'd do a 2.2, or OEM HG's if you wanna try and cheap out. Any cheaper route and I fear you're doomed in the not too distant future. Just my opinion.

OEM gaskets go on dry. I only use OEM anyways, and I certainly would in this case, or you're increasing your odds of doing this yet again. You really can't/shouldn't reuse head gaskets - think about all the steps to the torque procedure to ge tthem to seal the first time. The correct gaskets will be under 100 bucks at the dealer or online. How many times you wanna do this? Poke around here and see how well "other" gaskets do. I use a lot of Felpro for just about everything else - including the VC gaskets, but not HG's on a Suby. Read here a bit, just not worth taking the chance. You're asking for advice, and have found an excellent source here with USMB folks. Please take the advice.

I've bought more cars than you'd think not long after a dealer timing belt job. Probably because they are embarrased at what OEM idlers cost. Every person I've asked said the dealer didn't mention or recommend idlers at all.

Yep - dots and hash marks!!! Make sure you get the crank bolt TIGHT. And if you're doing cam seals and stuff break loose the cam sprocket bolts BEFORE removing the timing belt - it's a lot easier. A lot of us always replace the idelrs with a kit.

I've got used plastic ones w/screws if interested PM me.

I never order online. But it's also called an "oil seperator" plate. ANd if you're switching materials I hear you need screws as well.

Easily. And if you tore that VC off to do that job you could also try and make sure Ultra Grey didn't find it's way places is shouldn't be.

They ROT, not split. Usually at the bottom bend where hte plastic shield holds stones, dirt, sand, and moisture. Do a little searching here and you'll probably find some more pics.

Would have been easier if you would have posted a direct link to a pic. But that's it. Usually they rot at the bottom behind the plastic shield and the rest of it look spretty good. If it's not on an Outback it's pretty cramped where the short hose attaches between the filler tube and tank. The extra inch on a OBW really helps.

Kind of an expensive dealer only part. I have one used one left that's servicable but nothing special. Don't know if it could be coated or anything before install. Send me a PM if you may be interested in it and I'll get you a pic. I think it's the one you need. They vary by the EVAP lines towards the top in the wheel well.

2.2 bolts right up, you need one w/EGR. I'd do the MMO now, it's often needed to quiet down an engine after a HG job. But that said you probably did do damage and wouldn't be surprised if rod bearings end up failing. Read here about "burping". If it was overheated and classic overheating issues you'll need to remove lower rad hose, reattach, remove upper rad hose and fil lthrough upper rad hose then top off rad - is the short version.

My DD is a VW diesel. I have one single port Ypipe left to sell. If you need it PM me. There are always recent threads with basically your question. And there was a recent thread a fella started to complain that in his situation some of us told him he should consider a 2.2 swap rather than fixing a 2.5 with unknown history. By making him aware of his options somehow he was bothered by that. Lots here, and a helpful bunch. But still best to use search and research a bit first.

Welcome to the USMB. Many threads similar to the question you're asking. Try the search function but here are some basic answers: The Impreza engine will work if you use it's Y-pipe(single port). Confirm that the 2.2 has an EGR (it should). Many other years of 2.5 and 2.2's will fit - most common other component needed could be a single port Y-pipe. A 95 2.2 automatic (has EGR) is the most direct fot (has a dual port Ypipe and is non-interference) so it's the preferred replacement engine. Donor MUST have EGR.

The Impreza engine will work if you use it's Y-pipe. Confirm that the 2.2 has an EGR (it should). Many other years of 2.5 and 2.2's will fit - most common other component needed could be a single port Y-pipe. Donor MUST have EGR.

As an observation Cougar is THE electrically related expert here. Based on the advise I've seen him give others.

Let me restate this. If you took parts off the "problem" engine and placed those parts on a good engine - was everything fine? In other words I'm questioning your "known good parts". Not as a personal thing, but as a diagnostic thing. And proving they work on another car confirms that they are o.k.

Yep. Changes it from electrical to timing, mechanical or fuel if problem stays on same head.

I've got a street legal dune buggy that needs rings (40 lbs of compression in all 4 cylinders). The same garage has a dozen Subaru engines in it. All are EGR though because that's always what I needed. Being a buggy MAY make the radiator stuff easier. Currently I'm unable to do much work, hope it gets better. I get the 71 bus back together and off the lift and some other air cooled's that I own need a little work/maintenance I'm thinking the buggy/2.2 thing would be fun. Many years ago I did a few Corvair conversions. Please update your profile with a useful location.

Please keep us posted on the project. I may do the same conversion myself some day since I have Type 1 and Type 2's here and 3 good Suby engines laying around. I can tell you this. As long as they all have EGR you can swap engines between automatic and manual cars all day long. That said for most swaps like you're doing folks seem to use engines without EGR on purpose. There is another thread here about someone who just did this swap within the last few months.

Now that folks see where you're at perhaps some folks will have other idea's for you over the weekend. It's still unusual to have 2 sets of HG's by 140k. WHo did that work? Because this is really the same - other than sending the heads out. I can't see how this would cost more than 2k at an independent shop as a ballpark.

Update your profile with a useful location!!! At 140k I'd immediately think independent shop. After we know where you're at someone from here may suggest a shop. I'd probably fix that engine since you know it. If no piston damage valves aren't all that expensive and if they haven't been done you're due for HG's anyways.

First though would be to double check "known good" stuff by installing your "broken" parts on a good running car and seeing if the problem follows the parts. Reason I say this is because that problem should be electrical (not mechanical or fuel delivery). Didn't ask what brand of wires because 2.2's are pretty forgiving. Because you've swapped the electrical stuff (except ECU which very rarely go bad) and also have wiggled all the connectors during swapping as a way to double check those connectors.