davebugs

This should be a sticky. A lot of us answer it a lot of different ways, but this is what it boils down to. Infact there was a recent thread where someone was complaining we were "pushing" 2.2 swaps. Infact in a lot of circumstances they simply make the most sense. Another note the HG's from Subaru aren't out of line price wise versus the Felpro's at a chain store. I also recommend the OEM crank, cam, WP seals/gaskets and oil pumo Oring while you're placing an order.

Back in the day we had a few 454 Dually's at an RV place where I worked. Had trouble with the trucks running well when bringing back trailers from Elkhart and such. Ended up beingt brand new cats. We tried using the redneck method - a cold chisel through the cat and mufflers. Worked like a charm. Then we fixed it proper. A day later we got a load of LEER truck caps. Guy used the phone to call home and complain about how crappy the truck ran when hot. Guess what we did? Loud but worked. I assume they "fixed" that truck when it got back. Brand new Chevy trucks. I'm fichting an intermittent miss in my 97 Astro van AWD 4.3 Vortex. Changed 3 fuel filters, all the normal tuneup stuff. Gonna put a new fuel pump in next week. I only notice when towing, and never a CEL. DOn't forget the crappy gas they force us to use. Local mechanics have been seeing more burnt valves in cars so far this year it's amazing. I just got back form my local independent power equipment dealer and he was telling me how bad it's still getting for his stuff. So I'll be following along with curiosity to see what ends up fixing your problem. It may help me with my issues. And yes - I've checked my cats.

You CAN do it in the car. I don't see how you can do as well of a job and it'd porbably actually take longer to get the same quality work. Checking & cleaning up the block, checking it for true while in the car - I think is a compromise. Trying to make sure no fluids get on the head gaskets when doing it in the car, etc. Go ahead, do them in the car, and you'll be able to say you did it. But that's the only positive that I see doing it this way myself. I started to do one this way one time and lost patience and just pulled the engine. And then you can reseal the baffle plate - which never hurts! Don't get me wrong, you're the one doing the work. BUt I'd pull it.

I get the HG's and all seals at the dealer and ask for the latest torque procedures most every time. Don't forget to check heads for true, or have them checked.

From the commercials it's very overpriced. Just get an ODB2 reader for 50 bucks on Ebay or watch they go on sale at Advanced auto parts. After you get the code (which most chain places will read for free anyways) and have internet access you're set. If a Subaru search here for the P code. Otherwise just google the code. You just saved yoursefl a bunch of money and will have better/more detailed information including how other folks have corrected the problem.

I do swap those AC compressors without touching the alternator. No idea what else was involved - or could be. Thanks for all the info. I'm AC ignorant. But I can swap an AC compressor quickly and take it back to my AC guy for evacuation, vacuum test, and charge.

Why did you remove all that crap if the compressor was the issue? Or was there other diagnosis that went on that you didn't mention? Pics should be helpful to others - thanks. Did you install new Orings everywhere?

I can think of 4 different seat patterns - more than colors. GT, Outback, L and leather. You mean you should have grabbed one when you were here? I believe they are all dark grey, but don't know for sure.

I also believe a 98 should have new style tensioner. Purt simply the single/dual port think is easily overcome with a different Ypipe. Overcoming no EGR - there is no good way that I'm aware of or have seen here. Lots of folks get screwed by yards/mechanics if they don't realize this should be a show stopper.

Oops - yea. But I believe it's the only year of a dual port 2.2 isnt' it? That's what makes it the magical year. Along with still being non-interference. Can't believe I forgot that! Yea - I've probably installed close to 50 2.2 swaps now. Just none in the last year and a half. It's amazing how poor my memory is sometimes!

Was a dualport 2.2 ever made? I don't recall seeing one, that's why I ask. Would be another intersting tidbit to know.

Fancy plugs aren't always the answer especially in a Subaru. No matter how well intentioned. Don't know why. Often I think it's better to stick with "the technology at the time" rather than trying to improve things. I basically do the same on my old air cooled VW's for the same reason. Glad it worked.

I LOVE my local guy. Apparently likes beer more than teeth! But he's retireing also. I took him astarter from a 73 VW Beetle last week. Heck - I don't even need it, it'll end up on the shelf. But I'd prefer to have anything he's redone over a questionable rebuild or some generic brand new. I've had him redo almost all the generators and starters on my antique cars. In the case of the antiques always pro-actively. That reminds me, it's done and needs picked up. But another person/service I'll miss greatly.

Wow. Never realized how many crappy machine shops are apparently out there. The head GG has done was outright embarrassing. I have 2 machine shops I use for heads - never a problem. My local auto parts cuts my flywheel's and back when it made sense rotors never with an issue. Including many Subaru flywheels. I often say I go out of my way to support tradesmen like my local radiator shop. A lot of tradesmen places have already fallen by the wayside like shoe repairmen, TV repairmen, decent bakeries are dropping like flies with the mega marts, decent old time hardware stores are having difficulties competing with the big box guys on commodity items. All these small businesses have a level of customer service a chain will never have. And a level of investment an employee will never have. I don't believe we're better off without them no matter how much cheap Chinese stuff Walmart inports while advertising "customer service". How many times have you thought about a positive customer service while waiting to check out at Walmart or finding someone who actually knows about an item they carry? If you're literally afraid to have it resurfaced just buff it up with a scotch brite wheel this is what most folks seem to do including the dealer. Sure wish more folks had decent local macine shops.

My first reply was lost. I just usually use Felpro for VC gaskets.

Actually oil pump Oring , no gasket - ultra grey is how it comes from factory and how I "redo" them. Don't forget to check the phillips screws on the oil pump and tighten them. As far as flywheel a lot of folks use a scotch brite pad on the device of your choice like an air drill. I wouldn't think sandpaper was a good idea. I get mine resurfaced myself.

I don't see a conclusion yet. Did I miss something?

Get whatever makes you feel comfortable. But FYI the Ebay kits were the first to come with the 2 row bearings I believe. I suspect because folks were intalling them in the wrong place. Also 2 cars I purchased not long after an idler failed after a dealer did a timing belt job had that lower, single bearing idler have a melt down. And all internet or Ebay places aren't the same. Most of us have said we've had good experience with a particular vendor. If you have most of the OEM parts already then getting the rest OEM probably makes the most sense since you already have a significant investment in parts that are part of the kit.

They make tip cleaners. ANy welding supply or my local auto parts place has them. Also I have a document or link here Skip gave me years ago I'll look for. I hadn't run torches since the late 70's and needed a "refresher".

I always get them resurfaced.

You never install a new stype on purpose. I mean switch TO a new style If you have old style, consider yourself lucky as far as durability and cost to replace, and ability to replace only the idler.

And the new tensioner assy is much more money than jsu thte idler for the old style. No matter which if you're re-usig the tensioner read here how to compress it.

GG, He said the Lego already had a 2.2 that's why I didn't mention the Y-pipe. I have one single port Ypipe left. If you wanna buy it PM me.

Aftermarket but decent. Usually GMB bearings. Best value. I've installed many, many sets and don't know of a failure yet and several have gone another 100k I know.

I've done several of these. Don't recall anything spectacular about it. All 3 plugs of the harness are the same for sure.