davebugs

In the end you're probably gonna have to remove the tiing belt to clean the groove and install the new key. Just to get you prepared. And at that time you can check the splined part's keyway slot as well.

I'd say you need a new key. Make sure the slot it fits into is clean. The key you have doesn't stick out enough - it's like a half moon. Both ends should look the same. You need a key and crank pulley/harmonic balancer. I gotta head out for hours. When I get back hopefully you'll understand what you need. If not I'll see if I can find a key and take a pic of it for you. Remove and carefully inspect (if you have the timing belt off or are going to) the splined pulley on the crank that's behind the crank pulley and look for damage.

Odds are very good of valve damage. At 200k it's probably getting a little tired anyways. If a pulley truely came loose I'd suggest a different independent shop. If a pulley failed please post the brand and where purchased if possible. Dampner pulley confuses me. There is a crank pulley/harmonic dampner pulley - it's the big one on the end of the crankshaft. That is different from the idler pulleys that are run by the timing belt. We need more information. If the harmonic dampener pulley came loose they don't know Subaru's - we're back to finding a member or an independent shop that knows Subaru's. At this point with these issues and that many miles I'd probably suggest (at the expense of folks complaining lately) to do the 2.2 swap. Lots of information here on fixing the 2.5 or swapping in the 2.2.

If you can get to my photo album I have a few pics of a similar failure and you can see how that mating surface of the crank pulley should look. Except in the pic I have posted the keyway is bad, as is the other parts including splined sprocket and oil pump.

From memory you've got a problem there. That crank puller/harmonic balancer shouldn't have that groove worn into it. I don't have any pics handy though. I will look later today or see if I have any engines easy to access that I can take a pic of.

I've never had good luck with those. Soak them with whatever penetrating oil type stuff you have over there. I pry with a screwdriver, put channel locks and locking vise grips on them. Often here they are just too rusted to ever come out complete. Good luck. I'm hoping someone posts a brilliant way to do this that I haven't tried.

If you take into account the pollution, energy, and water used in it's creation ETHANOL POLUTES MUCH MORE. When you simple burn it it produces less than gasoline - true. Just depends on how short sighted you are. Or better put whether a person is argueing one simple fact or the overall impact. I'm more concerned with the overall impact myself. And all this leaves aside the whole disruption to all crop markets, and raising the price of food. I could go on. But I really am trying to resist.... "Ethanol is not your friend" It's a political statement really.

Kinda funny that you've come full circle. But honestly we were trying to help you all along. You just had to be willing to listen to answers broader than your question. In the end noone here makes or looses money on your decision. And the decision is yours to make. We're just trying to share experience - which is probably exactly why you posted here to begin with. There is lots of good info and posters here. Personally I wish you well whatever you choose. And folks here will continue to answer your questions. Although it's always a little better if you do some research before asking. This is your first Subaru HG experience. Many here have run into this situation many, many times. And that's where all the suggestions came from. To help with the learning curve and options.

Thanks for the link. Iowa votes first so the Ethanol is mandatory now most everywhere. They care about the first primary state. Not our cars, trucks, lawnmowers, weed wackers, chain saws, etc. Their answer is to force us to buy new ones that meet their new standards. Convenient - for them. Here in PA they are also forcing biodiesel standards. Not quite as harmful in small qty's (other than it'll start to eat lots of OEM hoses). But atleast they literally aren't turning food into Biodiesel like corn to Ethanol. Stupid! Stupid! Stupid! Unless you're a corn farmer especially in Iowa or someone running for office grandstanding there. I have always invested in alternative energy and related. CORN BASED Ethanol is plain old stupid! If you do any open minded research you're likely to come to the same conclusion. Appreciate the post. Unfortunately no stations near me at all. But I've bookmarked it and will check back.

PM'd about a set of standard Outback alloys I have here.

I do a lot of 2.2 swaps because often they end up cheaper than doing the HG's if someone is paying to have the work done. Actually fixing a 2.5 or swapping a 2.2 are probably within a hundred bucks of each other (after reseal. timing components, etc). The gamble comes down to whether you think the 2.5 has been heated to the point that the rod bearings will fail soon after you spend the time and money on the HG job. So if no rod knock and not overheated I do HG's on the 2.5. If rod knock or it's been overheated bad or multiple times I 2.2 them. If I don't know I figure worst case and 2.2 them. And you gotta admit the 2.2 swap is very easy - that and cost and reliablilty are why it makes sense. So we can all advise on the HG job, getting heads surfaced, timing components, oil pump screws and the like. But if there is evidence of it being "cooked" or already having bearing noise they should be aware of the 2.2 option. JY 2.5's are still over 1k and typically have the same HG isues and a 2.2 is about 350 and the prognosis is better on an engine that you don't know. FYI I fix about half and swap about half based on the above comments.

I'm betting that unfortunately you could have saved 50 bucks. And put that towards the HG job or 2.2 swap.

Welcome to the USMB. Search for "burping". Odds are great they left a bubble in the cooling system. Now you're probably overheated it and possibly caused other damage. Some things can surface sooner than others. Head Gaskets, head warpage, and the longer failure rod bearings if it's been overheated. Please find a shop that knows Subaru's. It'll lead to happier times with repairs. The cliff notes version is drain the system, fill through top radiator hose.

I believe most of use Permatex Ultra Grey instead. But I could be wrong. Easy to find, easy to use, and reasonable price.

Here was my thread about the old GF's 06 Impreza ATF. I was shocked at the color as well. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87092&highlight=impreza

2.2 it. Reseal it and drop it in and be good for another 100k. Reseal, timing components, water pump, etc while it's out. Miles ahead in dollars and time, let alone frustration. The 2.2 has been found to be much more durable and longevity is better. HG's on a 2.2 are rare and never seem to have rod knock either. And 2.2's are cheaper than 2.5's. Search here for the swap. You want a 2.2 WITH EGR 95 automatic (they have EGR and standards don't) is preferred because it's non interference and dual port exhaust. If you get 96 or up you'll need it's single port Ypipe.

I wouldn't do it without the EGR. Unless the car is basically junk. You'll never get the light out, so unless you check periodically you won't know if you have another code. And you're screwing up any resale value. DOn't forget if it's not a 95 you also need the single port Ypipe off the donor. Searching will help you understand all of this.

I'm in a real delimma on whether to buy this or not. I have no use for it. But it's only got 2 miles!! Intake was off - along with plug wires from him trying to use it in a 2002. So it hasn't been run since sometime in 08 - for the whole 2 miles until the car was put on the car hauler. This guy had originally bought 3 of these. Sold one at the time, the other I don't know if he sold or used, kept this because he had an 07 which he recently sold. Tried to use it in the 02 and didn't wanna break down a new engine just to use the block assuming that would even work. Heads are different and have some sensors on them at the backs of the heads. Heck I can't even physically work in the garage at the present time. And don't work on stuff this new. But how many opportunities like hths come along?

The Subaru's with 2.2 and bad head gaskets that I've bought were mostly 97's and one 98. So this makes sense to me. And I've transplanted an awful lot of 95 2.2's without doing HG's with no issues.

Just got back. Found an engraved # under the throttle body on the bellhousing. Has 2 miles on it. Seriousley. Not even dirty. He had the intake off it to try and swap. I beleive he has all the axles too. Car was in a transporter wreck in 08. Has the starter and PS punmp as well, he reused the alternator. Anyone need this?

If it's the HLA'a usually MMO followed by a SPIRITED drive of 10-20 miles after it's warmed up solves it. That's what I'd try first.

Going to look at one tonight and the car isn't there. Where is a #? I'm guessing drivers side bellhousing? Looks like interchange is 08 and 09. Anyone here need one of these? Guy tried to put this into an 00 Outback. Says the heads are differrent. I don't know. I've never done any major work on anything newer that an 02 other than maintenance on old GF's 06 Impreza.

I'll follow the thread. Haven't been to Carlisle in years but used to go every year. I stopped going the year before they broke out the shows so there was a seperate "kids" show. You know - lowered cars, stereo competitions, etc. Then the punks from what I understand got thrown out because they were also interested in fighting and such. I don't think that show exists anymore. I'm still recovering from an accident. I can walk o.k. but my back gets sore quickly. Carlisle is several hours from me in the car to begin with which didn't used to bother me but does now. If I attend Carlisle I'll be sure and stop in if the club has an area. But I wouldn't be attending per se as a club member. That said it would be good to see the club represented.

Good you found one. Did you find one Local and reasonable? Good advice above. The nut and the alignment.

IIR that MAP code is about the lines going to the little gizmo by the pass strut tower as already pointed out. Sometimes I'd get them reversed(sometimes someone would be here and "help"). Or if one is off, or I beleive if you somehow didn't install that filter/diaphram/whatever abotu the size of a quarter in one of those lines.