davebugs

Was it an Outback?

amazing

I know there are pics, or links to pics probably on cars101. The "reset" button for programming keyfobs. If you're lucky get on all 4's and look up behind the hood release pull for a little black button. If you're not as lucky at one time it was wrapped in electrical take on a mess of wires under the steering column. May be easiest to take off the panel if you don't know what you're looking for. It's a black button. Then kinda hid them up under there and made then inconvenient to find. There is probably an explanation of where to look for the module up under the dash as well.

If you search here, or ask here about "resealing" a 2.5 folks will tell you to pull the oil pump and chack those screws. Most of us find one or two loose. Most Loctite them - I just usually tighten them. BTW this also leads to the discussion usually of whether to install the crank seal into the oil pump then put it over the crank. Or to install the oil pump on the crank then install the crank seal.

You gotta allow for the "groove" you're trying to take out. Generally anymore folks replace rather than turn them. They are already typically heading towards warpage and have had many, many heat cycles. My local place is 8 bucks to turn then and I buy new instead. Only exception is if it's just due to rust from setting. The shop that's gonna cut them should be able to tell you.

Every 97 Outback I've had included remote entry. Perhaps look for hte little black button to program a remote. That may be easier that looking for that module under the dash.

I told you no. This time in a shorter sentence. I also suggested you get the code read. That's what a code does - it tells you what's wrong/where to look. Kinda handy that way...

No CEL due to swap. Unless you left same vacuum and/or EVAP lines off. Either way an auto parts store will read the code for free (But I think everyone should have the little 50.00 ODB2 code reader). Because you need it cleared to make sure you[re not reading a code from the old engine. Knock sensors do go bad and I always get OEM but some folks here haven't and been fine. But in my experience a bad knock sensor won't cause your symptoms. It'll be "gutless" but not cut out, idle correctly, etc.

If it runs now - it's probably just the keyway. I forget because I just pull them and fix them. I don't recall if the splined piece that the harmonic balancer holds on can "walk" much with the bad keyway enough to cause valve issues. Perhaps someone else has experienced this and will chime in.

Yep. Not a big deal. Can't imagine trying to fix this problem in the car. Although I'm sure some have. Access to weld and grind and stuff. ALways easier on a stand or hanging from a cherry picker.

I yank them, weld the crank, grind out for the keyway, get a used harmonic balancer and key. There are a few pics still I believe in my USMB photo album of one I fixed that was pretty bad. Needed an oil pump as well. This also tells you that whoever was in there last (for a timing belt or water pump) didn't know Subaru's. That crank bolt needs to be TIGHT.

Thanks for the update. Probably money well spent and aggrivation saved.

I believe others here have used them. I stick with theimportexperts myself. Seem to be GMB and NTN stuff mostly. Prices are about the same. So I keep dealing the same place until I get burned. I'm guessing I've purchased over 50 sets from them. Mostly for Subaru's.

Call your local full service JY's. I usually pay 35-50 for mine delivered. This IS a case where the Legacy and Impreza don't seem to interchange well based on my experience..

These guys may be done by now with a VW TDI (Diesel) kit car. I may try and make the Carilsle PA kit/import show this spring and check it out. In the past they have had some cool stuff. I haven't bothered attending the show in many years.

These guys may be done by now with a VW TDI (Diesel) kit car. I may try and make the Carilsle PA kit/import show this spring and check it out.

Clicking sound is new to me. But the others (a lot of times along with cruise not working) is clock spring.

Yep, clock spring definately.

That's what I was referring to. Take a good look. On the ones I've needed to fix usually it takes 2 sets of htose split flanges, then 2 bolts/nuts to bolt them to each other. Often I'd seemingly run out of hands. But seriousely in the end I'd call an exhaust shop to see what they'd want. For all the better I can repair them here in Pennsylvania it's money well spent for me and the repair is better, and ends up costing not much more than the parts you're gonna buy. My place is 40 bucks - but he's done a lot of them for me. Let us know how you make out. I'd expect our rust issues to be similar.

I started a thread a year or so ago about my search for ATF for my GF's 06 Impreza. After talking with the "scientist/tech" at WOlfs head I decided on their Synthetic Universal ATF. That was probably 100k ago and while I no longer see the lady had something gone wrong with the car I'm sure I would have heard about it! Seems to me the specs changed again after 06 though and at that time it sounded like the dealer was the only choice. Now there are some laws on this - but I wouldn't know how ot research this. VW recently ran into this with oil for their diesels. Something about if a SPECIFIC BRAND of fluid is mandatory for like the first 100k miles or something it must be made available free of charge if you're unable to buy something meeting that specification in the open market. I'd imagine it'd be difficult to prove though.

Most here have learned this as well. Probably a good update to an old thread. 2.5 plug wires shoudl always be OEM. 2.2's it sure doesn't hurt. They aren't that much out of line with "quality" aftermarket (not store brand plug wires).

Actually they have been designing LED lighting into Commercial Buildings for a while. No need for "can" lights - they only need like 1" for the fixture. No Flourescent (Mercury) bulbs. No heat from incadescents. Really impacts the HVAC needs. Lots of city's are going to them for Street Lights and parking garages. There are special deals for cities and university's. They basically last forever compared to other outdoor area lighting products. So those union folks don't need to replace them near as often. Payback it theoretically often a year or two, then little replaement cost going forward. Also much beter light than CFL's. And I'd assume you are aware that the EU and basically the US have outlawed Incadescent bulbs. 100w first. LED's have been used for dash lights for years, and now, more and more coming standard as exterior lights. This started on high end cars but now on more affordable cars. Enough OT for now. But LED's certainly are the future.

I thought the same thing. I bookmarked it. ALso over on vwvortex kids are playing with htis stuff all the time. I would imagine a WRX site would have the same thing. Some day I may do my cargo area or something. I've made a lot of money investing in LED stocks. My new fridge has them. I have some LED spot light and replacement bulbs. They are the future due to longevity, little power needed, no hazmat. And the price is coming down.

That'll work then. Good luck. Reseal the new engine while it's out.

I never thought I'd buy tires at Sears. A few years ago they had the correct tires at a decent price for my old '62 VW Single Cab Pickup truck. Had them mounted, didn't like the rim paint job, had them dismounted so they've been under the truck for 2 years or so. Most of my antiques don't get many miles. But I was shocked that Sears had the correct size, now in a radial, at a good price. I just checked there by accident really. I still haven't actually driven on them though.