davebugs

You don't. That's why we said to make sure you got one with EGR. Some folks have though about dirlling/tapping for that metal pipe on the drivers side rear. Eventually they get smarter and give up. Do some searching. Then you can follow other's thinking and attempts at work arounds regarding the EGR.

I usually notice the rod knock the most - and this is my test. Let it warm up. Spirited drive, or 10 minutes at idle. Then grab the throttle linkage and rev it up a bit. When the engine is decellerating probably at about 2k is when I hear it the most. Try and put your head back towards the throttle body on both sides. That's my test. If it goes away when warm it's piston slap as already stated.

Don't know for sure as I don't have much experience on the newer models. But on the older ones when the alternator would start to go the ABS light and another seemingly unrealted light would come on. Drive long enough and you often loose the high RPM range as you are running off the battery. Eventually you stop. I typed this but wasn't gonna post it since I haven't had this issue on a newer moddle - usually I stop at '99. Since other have posted basically the same thing I'd thought. In short I wouldn't trust the test. Or perhaps take it to a "real" electrical shop that actually rebuilds starters and alternators.

FYI my local old timer "outdoor power equipment guy" says Seafoam is the best fuel stabalizer. I asked him a year or so ago when small engines started having troubles with all the crap they put in the gas (Ethanol) and all the harm it was doing. Knowing that when it sets it draws moisture bad. And at that time Sta-bil hadn't come out with anything for Ethanol yet (since then they have - the Marine green stuff) and I thought it was a MAJOR missed opportunity. Never used it for stabilizer, but I do recall reading that as a use on the can. I still primarily use it for the "catalyst effeciency" code on Subaru's.

Lucas - I buy it by the gallon and put it in their little bottles so that on gas cars it'll go in far enough. On cars running good - every oil change. On my tow vehicles - every tank. In my diesel every couple k. In my lawnmower - who's only gas source is usually what fuel I've taken out of cars I'm scrapping. Another way to look at this stuff. Years ago I had bad fuel problems (bad gas) in an S10. I actually forget if it was my carb'd S10 or the throttle body one (95 I think). Anyways I said I'll just run some cleaner through it. I went abotu 400 miles per week. His though was the cleaner would loosen up all kinds of crap in the entore fuel system, starting in the tank. I did it anyways, carried and extra fuel filter, and changed it weekly fo rhte next few weeks. I actually forget what I used - I'd guess Gumout. But that's a different way of looking at it. You're not just cleaning he part you want, but the whole system.

My thought is that he's caling "resistence" "interference" until "interference" is proven. And is the head isn't undone hanging a new belt is definately the way to go.

My advance has a store brand belt - they are crap. Drive rite? Crap! I've always been afraid to install them even as accessory belts. They also handle Dayco - I think a good belt. If you get theimportexperts kit it'll come with a MitsubOshi belt. I've used them on several non-interference Subaru's with no issues that I know of. They swear they are the OEM manufacturer. But for interference engines I still buy a Dayco. They also have a kit with cam seals they swear are the brown ones form the OEM manufacturer but I go to the dealer for the seals, HG's and WP gasket. Although I just did get a kit for a friends 02 and got the WP from them and the gasket looked to be the same style as the dealer (rubber coated metal)

What I did with the old GF's 06 Impreza. I did the "redneck flush" drain and fill 3 times at around 50k when I did the first set of plugs IIR. Then every second or third oil change I'd do one drain and fill. Partly because I didn't know how long I'd be taking care of the car and I though this would have the best results before the tranny service ended up being ignored or being done by a quick lube place.

Do the cam sprockets spin? Water pump? What's the status of the tensioner? How did you compress it? Is it wet at all?

I HEAR you can do them in the car after removing the pitch stopper. And I've sold s few pitch stopper/dog bones to folks who have broke them doing them this way. I'd simply yank the engine. Did you do anything to the engine before dropping it in? That'll help figure out what may have gone wrong. Including too much sealer somewhere and a cam seizing. More common than you'd think. As pointed out the drivers side has compression at TDC and the pass doesn't no matter a 2.2 or 25. Tell us brands of stuff as well. I use Dayco belts for instance. Over in the VW world there is a fella with a bunch of websites selling CRAP as good parts. Cheap folks are getting burned. And a VW TDI headjob makes a Subaru look awful cheap.

Welcome to USMB. Lots of excellent info here. Either search or look at "similar threads" at lower left of the screen now. There are some excellent pics here somewhere. From time to time they are just a pain. I had one that I spent a few hours on, left it over night, and took a few hours of messing with it the next day. I even took the time to get some long bolts and cover them with 1/2 PVC pipe to make turning the TC easier trying to get it to seat. But I know there is talk of some methods and Orings here if you look. Some pics as well.

As pointed out there is a kit fo rthis joint And "flange fix kits" to simulate the flanges that get installed individually then bolted together basically to create the connection along with the donut. This is what I take to my local independent exhaust shop. They cut it out, make a sleeve, and weld it in for 40 bucks. Best 40 bucks I spend. Also FYI occasionally the pipes are good and I do leave this joint in place. The LISTED donut gasket is often too small. It is meant for a spiffy new pipe. And it would take too much sanding to get it on. So I look for one of a slightly larger diameter than is listed. Luckily at my local independent place they let me play behind the counter on the wall that has these gaskets - Walker I believe. The slightly larger one install more easily over the pipe (I still sand it and stuff) and still crushes just fine when the bolts are tightened.

Again the experts will know for sure. But I believe on most AC systems if the charge is low the compressor knows not to come on. My guy pulls a vacuum to make sure the system is "closed" before recharging. If it's charged and compressor gets signal and still doesn't run it's the compressor. They can also pur a dye in if it's a stubborn leak. Jsut like the dye for oil or coolant. I've got a selection of used AC compressors here. They all bolt up the same but often the hoses are different. Luckily I have a selection of those as well. On the rare occasions I've had AC compressor issues having the combination of an AC compressor and it's matching hoses has given me more flexibility than buying a reman AC compressor. But I realize a lot of folks don't have the luxury of the parts stash that I have.

O rings at the hoses are common. But I believe their are some AC experts here that'll know a lot more than me. I take my AC issues to a real AC guy. I learned long ago - just like exhaust pipe repair that it just wasn't worth the correct tools and developing the knowledge for me to fix AC. Is your condensor o.k.? Any front end damage? SImply follow the trail of the gas.

FYI a friend recently bought a 01 Legacy GT limited that had HG's done under warranty. I've called me dealer about 3 2002's over the past several months - one a friend owns, y I was looking at for the fella that just got the GT. NONE of the 2002's were covered. One that a friend owns has 78 or 87k. Unfortunatley back in the day they were one of the first to need a sort block due to HG/rod bearing issues and I think they had to pay that out of pocket. So their experience with Subaru's hasn't been the best but they still like them. This 02 they just bought a few months ago. So it'll be getting HG's tiing belt, idlers, WP, you know the whole deal soon. They were kind of amazed that Subaru still had HG issues. Different but still issues. A couple bottles of conditioner hasn't helped but they are trying to limp along for another week or so. So these friends will end up with both engine styles having HG's done!

Excellent idea with the roll of solder. I've done several of these and never bothered with string, wire or anything. Not to hard to fish that cable back down there. Excellent job with the pics for the next person.

rare. I hear you can do the 2.2's in the car but I always pull them. I've probably done I don't know - less than 50 but probably close to it 2.2 swaps and never did the HG's. Everything else like I said but no HG's. I have purchased a few 2.2's with traditional(non Subaru style) HG issues (blow white smoke) I'd say you were just lucky...

Do some searching. Different HG problem that you can usually nurse along for a while and rarely overheat enough to damage rod bearings. Just keep it topped up, add conditioner, etc. SOHC's are "better but different" when it comes to HG's

I never do the 2.2 HG's and ALWAYS do the 2. 5 HG's personally. The odds of a 2.2 having HG issues is very low. I certainly "seal" the 2.2 - baffle plate, cam crank, Orings (those 2 skinny ones). Timing belt, idlers, WP are all up to you - I do it all.

I forget as well, but I too recommend disconnecting at the pass floor. I'd get the car up to where you can see what you're doing (like ramps on pass side). I believe there is simply a clip to release the cable. If you search enough there may be a pic here. But you definately wanna take that route rather than disconnecting at the controls. If you break your controls drop me a PM I should have a few. I'm starting to put more stuff on Ebay to get rid of it.

Which Greensburg? Please update your ID info. If it's Greensburg PA you're close to me. I'm currently pretty wimpy (car accident on rt66 a couple weeks ago) but I'll have the parts you might need. Or may buy whatever mess you have off of you for when I'm able to play with cars again. I have 2.5 heads (actually whole engines) and I have the most 97 stuff. Lots of good folks and knowledge here.

Actually you and I look at it differently. I'm happy folks USE the search function. Especially newbies. Resurrecting an old thread means that someone actually tried to help themselves before creating yet another thread. You know - my car is overheating. I did a HG job and now my auto tranny won't move. Can I swap a 2.2 for a 2.5. I actually see it as progress when old threads are searched for and found. Doesn't bother me at all. There is a lot of old and excellent info here. I'm often amazed because I've only been here I'm guessing 3 or 4 years. The knowledge that's already documented here.

I have some "pickle forks". But usually I just go to Advance auto and "rent" the front end service set. pickle forks I have a tendency to rip the BJ boot with. Not a factor if it's being replaced but sometimes I wanna try and save the BJ. The "rent" deal is you pay for it (used set usually), take it back in what a week or 30 days and get your money back.

My local independent chain (of like 5 stores) handles the Cardone stuff. Infact I usually use their WP when I do timing belt jobs. FYI I run a lot of EMPI new axles on my vintage VW's. They don't get many miles but have been fine. At the time they were new and the same price as reman's really. Congratulations on using the search function as a newbie. Welcome to USMB.