davebugs

I don't know about the grommets(never looked) but Fel-Pro are the way I go too. Not for all, just for these, intake, and in a pinch exhaust.

I don't click on links. But I usually notice rod knock the most by after the engine is warmed up playing with the throttle and listening towards the back of the engine closest to passenger firewall when RPM's are coming down from lets say 2,500-3k. Since you can't put it under load when you're standing in front of it. Thats where I usually notice the noise - AFTER it's warmed up or you could eb hearing piston slap and you may not know the difference.

It's probably enough but I do two - they're cheap.

You missed a step, maybe used arrows instead of dots and hash marks(or something else is off), or the engine was already trashed. Those are the only options.

I hear a lot of transmission parts are Nissan - atleast the auto's. The key I believe is the same as Nissan.

What GG said. That should be a 2.2 which historically aren't picky about plug wires - ther than they need to be good. But it's likely electrical and NOT related at all to knock sensos. Infact rarely does a knock sensor give a code, and when it does it is for knock sensor. So you likely went down the wrong path there. But coil, wire, or plug are best suspects. Cheapest things to do at this point. Go get NGK plugs (I get the 2.00 ones with the green printing on the plug NOT the blue ones). Swap out plugs and while you're at it moves wires front to back. If this doesn't solve it and the code stays for 1&2 it's the coil. If the problem moves to 3&4 it's the wires. So you've identified or cured the real problem for 10 bucks and some labor.

There are some pics of this and the oil pump it ruined in my photo album here. Only have had assistance on 2 Suby repairs and this was one. A delaer mechanic because I'm not much of a welder. Removed engine (2.2) on a Legacy anniversary edition). Welded crank, dremeled groove for key, reassemble. Removed engine - it's so easy. So we could see and have good assecc, resealed baffle plate, etc.

I got correct belt. Thought that was safer than changing cam sprockets, etc. where I might have a sensor pickup issue and have to fight those battles.

YES!! SHort version (you can search my memory literally isn't what it was). After 2 bad 99 Forester SOHC's IIR I had them bring me a 2000 Legacy SOHC, then another 2002 Legacy 2.5 SOHC. Worst trouble I ever had with a car. Now I forget but I think it was between the 200 and 2002 Legacy (but possible between the 99 Forester SOHC and either of the Legacy engines the belt I purchased for the first 99 Forester replacement engine was too short. I thought I was loosing my mind when I did the usual tricks and couldn't get it on. A quick look and couldn't figure out why I needed a longer belt - all looked the same to naked eye. Called the parts store and the 2 engines did call for a different Dayco belt. Other than the timing belt issue swapping the intake which I had planned on and I did the HG's anyways and resealed the engine as usual. But the belt was a real head scratcher until I figured it out.

I use gravel. Different sized from the driveway. Then I take it to my local radiator shop and have them "red coat" it. He can do a better job than me at about the same price as the materials would cost me. One of the few jobs I don't do myself.

I think they pretty well covered what's needed. IMO the need for the sleeve is really rare - personally I wouldn't order it until I needed it. Trans mounts seem to never go bad on Subaru's. Clutch kit prices can vary a lot for Subaru's. One of the few kits I order online(but still a quality clutch) rather than from a local parts store (independent or chain).

I know a local excellent trans shop that needed to do the same repair on a 99 a few weeks ago. Called to see if I had any parts. I've had them service(valve bodies, solenoids, etc.) probably 20 vehicles(Saturns, Chevy's and VW's) and rebuild a few (Chevy, VW) all with great success at a fair price. Family run for 30 years? Everything from specialty 4WD's to mining carts, antique trans and stuff. But mostly the common cars and light trucks. If Pittsburgh PA (acutally about 30 miles ENE not close to the city) is driving distance I can ask them how much to do another one. Doubt they have a core though. PM me if interested.

For home/camp repairs I have a few tool buckets with the nylon things that go around them with pockets on inside and outside. Things like pipe wrenches, saws, basin wrench, and heavy things go inside. Most tools go into the pockets on the inside and outside. I have JY toolboxes and a few of those canvas tool things. I end up taking both to JY. A nice socket set for the JY with cheap ratchets and stuff (Sears set - although I got a new one at Cmas from Lowes that seem like better tools) and a canves bag for saw blades, hammers, pry bars, channel locks, crescent wrenches, more extensions and ratchets,etc. Since they will take longer pieces. T%he canvas bag gets unloaded into my tool box when I get back. The JY socket set doesn't.

I use a snap-on or gearwrench "rotohead" ratchet and basically have the ratchet head in the palm of my hand to make sure I don't overtighten them. They bottom out all of a sudden and the torque spec isn't much.

I buy the felpro kits that come with gasket and grommets myself. I'm not a big fan of doing things twice or smelling oil so I error on the safe side.

Been discussed before. I use a new one every time. Cost like a buck. Some folks have never changed theirs. Some replace when they leak. I prefer the copper ones myself. BTW auto trans plug is the same.

Thanks Any insight on EGR drilling? Personally I make sure I get an EGR engine so I've never needed to do it. Also would you recommend HG's while it's on the stand? Since they all say they have under 50k on them?

A friend just called. I tried search but "JDM" is too short. And "JDM swap" brought up a bunch of swap stuff but nothing about JDM and I got tired after 6 pages of finding no relevant threats. The customer apparently had a JDM engine delivered. He's planning on swapping intakes and drilling for EGR. I was trying to find out what other issues he's going to run into. I swear this is discussed somewhat often but can't find the info now that I need it. Anyone know al the likely issues getting this JDM DOHC NON egr to work on a 96 Outback auto? Or a good thread or two? Thanks

Might as well yank the engine now...

420 often solved, atleast tempoarily with seafoam through vacuum line and/or spark plug non-fouler(s). Search around here a bit to see how to do these.

Somehow I missed that....

My first guess would be baffle plate/oil seperator plate. If so it's a simple fix, but a decent amount of work.

My favorite swap document (there are several, search should find them) was by "skipnospam" @ comcast I beleive. It may be about a HG job. But overall an excellent writeup. Very MINOR issues like no place to screw PS lines to (doesn't mater) and often some rerouting of vacuum lines and valve cover breather hoses.

Mine too

Try what Gloyale said. My personal knowledge mostly stops at 2000, some exp with a 2006 that I used to service, but did regular tranny service on by doing a drain and fill of ATF every other oil change.