davebugs

GG - I gave the dealer the vin. This is the second 02 GT that this has happened to a friend. They just now stopped to pick up the 2 bottles of conditioner I had left on the porch for them. Looking on Ebay importexperts vs misumuto?. The green bearing seals on the idlers I know are GMB which I've been happy with. Don't know what those red bearing seals are and manufacturer isn't mentioned on the Ebay page for muzimoto. EIther way I won't use the timing belt that comes. Or the seals. So I'm likely to continue with theimportexperts since I have used lots of their kits without issue. Then dealer for HG's seals, WP gasket as usual. Gonna have to have someone else do this for them but I'll round up the parts. So I may have a new timing belt available for cheap. Probably MitsubOshi IIR - they claim they are the OEM supplier.

02's were NOT covered by the extended HG warranty like the 00 and 01's appear to have been. Just had a friend with an 02 GT and 78k that the HG's are starting to leak. Called the dealer I deal with - not covered.

Gasket, spring bolts, often the "flange fix" kits. It all adds up. And you're missing my point that you'll probably never be satisfied with that joint. And it'll likely always be wimpy. Do whatever you want. Try a different place. I don't know. Notice I said INDEPENDENT shop? Because I'm telling you it just ain't worth it. I even have the cars up on a lift and everything but the pipe bender, and ain't afraid to tackle much. In my opinion is simply isn't worth it.

Look. Just take it to an independent shop that can bend pipe. You're pissing away more time, effort, and money than they are gonna charge you. No matter how cheap you may be (I don't know how cheap you are). This is one of those cases even for DIY'ers that it just makes sense to have someone else with the proper tools do it. My guy charges me 40 bucks - but he's done a lot of them for me. So it costs you 50-60? By the time you buy the correct hardware, or aftermarket hardware for the "spring/flex joint" it's never gonna be really good anyways. He cuts both pipes, creates a sleeve, welds it up! Just make some calls and have someone else do it. Seriousely. You're gonna have about as much in parts and not do it as well. Then there is the time and frustration factor. When I do motor swaps and HG jobs often this joint fails. I don't mess with it anymore.

Actually I go more the other way. Anti-seize on most bolts going into the aluminum block. Including AC compressor, PS pump, tensioners. About the only loctite I use is on crank bolt - really behind the harmonic balancer more and not the threads of the bolt sometimes get red. And sometimes the flywheel bolts get blue. I never put anything on flex plate bolts. They didn't get any from the factory and "suddenly get tight" when tightening them due to head design, etc. And I'd be afraid the loctite might dry by the time I get all 4 started then come back and snug them up. I lost this post earlier due to the Db errors. Glad I copied it. I seem to really loose the long ones!

Sometimes a little flat file work and anti-seize will be all it takes. Other times you actually gotta move the bushing like you're planning.

That's what i was thinking. I've got many.

I ALWAYS anti-seize those on reassembly. But I do that with a lot. Like eng to trans bolts, engine mount bolts, heck even the radiator bolts. Just about everywhere. Yea it gets everywhere but should you ever need to take anything apart - especially in the rust belt - you'll be glad you did. I just never do TC or Pressure Plate bolts. Other than that most bolts get it. Like AC bracket bolts, PB bolts, certainly the tensioners, etc.

Heat is your friend if possible. Clean those threads out with a wire brush. No sense it trying to pull more crap through that nut than necessary. You can try some juice. Remember either the nut will come off or the stud will come out of the head (hopefully). If it breaks in the head it's not a pleasant day.

Sucks. I use a PVC collar. Pay attention to how far the old one is in there and get an OEM. FYI my local dealer doesn't stock them.

All the above is good advise. Personally I'd get it all done at one time by an Independent Subaru shop and you'll be good for a very long time. IF the PS rack is leaking I've had excellent results with Lucas Power Steering goo. Excellent experience in general and specifically on Subaru's.

You cleaned both surfaced well and used a sealer like Ultra Grey? If you bought an upgraded plate did you get the new matching screws? Has the rear main ever been replaced? Because if it has it may actually be the problem.

Definately. I often order "custom kits" - like add an extra cogged (I thry and keep one in tstock for the really cheap folks because it does fail first). Often adding an idler or two, or without the old style tensioner bearing, stuff like that. I've continued to deal with theimportexperts (who by the way have a few different names on Ebay and websites) because I've had 2 minor issues and resolved quickly and well. Learned you gotta check Ebay first sometimes their prices there are better. As long as price is fair and customer service is good I'll keep using that vendor until given a reason to deal with someone else. But I'd imagine others sell the exact same kit for about the same price.

Noise, feel and "tightness". If they spin easily it's because there ain't much grease left! You gonna gamble on another 100k on them?

Most of us but kits form theimportexperts.com You can search for them on Ebay as well. Good value, no problems and I've installed many - probably more than 50. I hear their WP's are good too but I get my WP local and usually my timing belt but they have several timing belt choices. Now their accessory belts are real cheap (I got Continentals last time) like half what other name brand belts are - like 5 bucks each or something. OEM idlers are expensive. NAPA & chain places don't seem to be a good value (some parts are CRAP often. I tried 2 local independent small chains, Advance, Autozone, before folks here recommended theimportexperts.

I put a jack under the diff, never tried further back. Makes sense the diff is weird shaped, pan is flat. I always do the TC bolts from the top myself. For one thing to remove them if that access plate is actually still on there its a bit of a pain to remove. Someday perhaps I'll try the TC bolts form the bottom. I do know several folks that do them that way.

I use a Gearwrench 1/4 "roto head" ratchet and a socket. I never could find a good box end with the offset that worked for me in my existing collection. You'll need a cheater bar - they are tight at the start - don't hit yourself in the head when they break loose. I stuff a rag in there incase I drop the bolt when removing and installing.

I got my tool at the local parts store. But since them I've noticed that older Sears stores seem to stock them, not so much with the big fancy new Sears stores.

I almost always have the engine out. And have only used the Lisle tool on engines that were out. I think it would make the job in the car much less stressful and do a better job. Since it acts like lever to pull the seal.

Get Ultra Grey. It seems to be the choice of the board and what I use. That is the Lisle tool that I use when I an find it. I believe it comes with 2 pieces (interchangable) that goes into the seal. Hard to tell but if you look close in the pic there is a little kinda lip on the end and that's how it bites. I did many with a pick or screwdriver before obtaining the tool. But nothing would be worse than marking the crank due to having the wrong tool.

Shoot - too bad you didn't see this on any procedures. Too late now but break them with an impact while timing belt is still on. Still a GOOD impact can often do this. Depends how up for danger you are. I have held them by hand with a serious IR 2131(?) impact. Some have tried sticking a screwdriver through the spokes (I believe that engine has the aluminum pulleys), some take an old timing belt and wrap it around and figure a way to hold it still - then hit it with an impact. Point is that now (no timing belt) I believe an impact is gonna be required. Because it is "quick" compared to a breakert bar, etc. Lisle does make a "universal cam sprocket" tool. I think mine was bad outta the package - hard to adjust and lock (when 2 screws are tightened).

You should already have a jack supporting the tranny. Jack up the tranny some to assist (make sure pitch stopper has been removed). Between this and a "balancing bar" on the cherry picker and you should be good to go. Tranny is a bit of a weird shape to set on jack, a block of wood helps but still kinda dainty. Someday I may make something better that is a big U or somthing wraps around the sides of the tranny and doesn't move.

I actually prefer the dealer bulbs. I'm not much of an electrician, and can never get the colored rubbers off the old bulbs. All 3 bulbs at dealer IIR are under 20 bucks, come with the proper base, etc. So I'd let your comfort level of electronics help you decide which bulbs. Definately disconnect cable in pass footwell.

I make sure they are there. Those 2 lower points are how I line things up, make sure the engine angle is correct before sliding back to the trans. Did you seal the baffle plate? If an auto are you CERTAIN the torque converter is seated (search here for info on this).

Don't know what year Suby you have but its the bracket that holds the alternator. After removing the alternator there is a place to hook to the bracket.