davebugs

I keep one cheap chinese set for lug nuts. Yea it's bad to leave it set, but it's 20.00 and Chinese. I own decent Sears 3.8 & 1/2 inch clickers and a few old beams. Can't bring myself to buy a torque wrench that takes batteries but they are nice. Sometimes I borrow one to do HG's just to see how close the bolts end up to each other and they can measure both directions. It's amazing after all those fractions of a turn how close they end up - middle's are tighter IIR. Anything I care enough about to check the torgue on isn't gonna be from a HF product. Check CL for used or Ebay - I get a lot of tools on Ebay. BTW a lot of times it's cheaper to get a new one rather than one calibrated. However I have seen "home methods" to check the accuracy but never done it.

I bolt the "balance beam" on the cherry picker to the alt bracket and there is a loop IIR back by #3 cylinder where the engine meets the trans. Seal belts are great. That's what JY's around here use. I use them a lot but when trying to adjust the angle of the engine when going back in I like the beam. I use a clevus(sp?) at each end (sometimes they are tight on the alt bracket) to attach the engine to the chain.

Search for baffle plate or oil seperator plate. This will also help you decide whether to reseal the plastic or buy a new metal one (with new screws). When you pull the engine youi'll see it on the back. I say it kinda looks like the state of Florida. While it's out do this but not the rear main. I always throw plugs in it while it's out because it's so much easier.

That plumbing is really pretty easy to figure out especially if you have both complete engines and left that crap on the 2.2. EVAP plumbing. If the canisters were in the same place on both cars should be easy. The MAP and whatever things lines over to the pass side strut tower. Sometimes there is a T or two, sometimes not. Sometimes 2 small lines coming out of the back side of the #3 intake, sometimes one has a plug(square head) screwed into it. Easiest are the VC breathers. Every swap seems to be a little different. But really no biggie. Only other minor comment (if you haven't already read about it) is that there is no place to bolt the PS lines to by the intake - but no biggie - it doesn't matter. Do the baffle plate/oil seperator while it's out!!

All sounds good. Reseal the baffle plate and leave the rear main alone. I use Ultra-Grey, some folks like to buy a new metal one and then you need new screws as well. Best to use one of those impacts to remove the philips screws on this. I forget if a 97 2.2 has those skinny Orings for the cam's or not. On the drivers side basically by the cam sensor(that whole piece comes off so if so do the Oring before the cam seal on the drivers side) then on pass side it's on eht eback. Don't forget to really torque down the crank bolt. I throw fresh NGKs in it the cheapies but V groove with the green writing. May wanna check valve cover gaskets. I always fo all 3 belts (timing, PS, AC) infact I actually get the AC 1/2 inch (IIR deduct 5 from the last number) shorter and the one for the PS 1/2 inch longer (get tired of forgetting and having to loosen up the PS pump to get the belt one. As I mentioned here the other day if you just pull the rad fans make sure to cover the rad with cardboard or an old piec of paneling. If you need a single port Y pipe PM me - I still have 3 or 4 of each (single and dual) hanging in the rafters for sale. I use theimportexperts kits all the time. BTW always check on Ebay as well. I was shopping for a VW VR6 clutch and they had one on Ebay 40 bucks cheaper than when I called the 800#. I've had that happen but not to that degree with some VW timing belt kits. I believe they stock Dayco and Continental now and their "standard" belt used to be MitsubOsi. I usually source the Water Pump and Dayco TB local (and the accessory belts) but their prices on accessory belts were half price for Continentals. I have installed a few MitsubOshi's on 95 2.2's that were non-interference without any issues. Allow a little possible "plumbing time" for EVAP and VC breathers and such that often needs a little attention. Good luck. Not really a difficult job. BTW 14mm flex for especially nut by drivers axle. 12mm(I forget) offset wrench or I use a gearwrench "roto head" or something 1/4 drive ratchet for flex plate bolts if an auto. Don't forget to stick a rag in there when removing and installing flex plate bolts. Those flexplate bolts are tight - probably need a cheater. If you look around there should be lots of how-to's even with endwrench unavailable.

2.5 DOHC - OEM. no doubt about it for me. If you read around here you'll see folks have tried others, and name brands (and generics) and are even better doing it the second time with OEM parts. Poke around. Most of us do idlers, oil pump Oring (and check the screws) crank seal, cam seals, often WP, etc. It's easiest to yank the engine so reseal the baffle plate while you're at it and throw some new NGK cheap plugs in to (the ones w/Green writing). Of course a TB and you should be set for quite a while. Look here for burping procedures also. Not a bad job really.

Thanks for the offer. Let me know. I actually have relatives near Columbus. Neither of us travels to the other one's place often (older aunt & uncle - probably in their 90's). I have no current need. And haven't "redone" a Subaru in over a year. But if these kits work it would be good to know. I have some of those alternators that were bad new as well. Probably part of the reason I got the cars cheap. "Global" I believe is another crappy alternator rebuild. I've got a bucket of WP's as well. I always replace them when doing a TB - why not since I do the idlers and all. I've also got pushing a dozen DOHC 2.5's here. Some complete, most nearly complete. All ran, mostly HG issues (hard to believe!) and not knowing their history (thinking rod bearings) I just 2.2'd the cars. When the weather breaks just a little I'll have to check out scrap prices. I've got 3 cars and a lot of these Suby engines to scrap. I don't fix 2.5's much. Been lazy about selling parts. Also lots of alternators, starters, and leaky PS pumps. I happen to have a few 97 starters - which ARE different - stupid! If anyone wants to stop in and get a leaky PS pump to experiment with I should have several - PM me.

I get them delivered for 20-30 bucks (I forget). Dealer kit was more expensive than a good used pump. Next need, if I have the time I may try one of these kits. I've got about 6 pumps here that need fixed. Infact if anyone is local and wants to fix theirs ahead of time (in essence rebuild one of my extra's) PM me. I had just started throwing them out - leakers aren't hard to come by. And none of mine have been the simple Oring on the reservoir. It's the big metal gasket.

You're kidding right? You've been here over 1k posts and never realized the rod bearings in DOHC 2.5's are wimpy? And it happens more often than it should that folks do the HG's and stuff only to get bad rod knock a few k later. If I know or suspect it's been driven through more than a heat cycle or two or has a bunch of miracle cures in the rad and a new thermostat and WP I just 2.2 'em also. Overheating + weak rod bearings doesn't make for a good long term prognosis. Not good enough for me to fix the 2.5 that is.

Only Subaru I've ever really, really had troubles with was a 99 Forester. A one year engine by the way. IIR took 2 99 Forester 2.5 SOHC engines, then 2 2001/2002 Legacy engines to get a good one. As a side note after using the Leagcy block/heads (and Forester intake) a different timing belt was needed (a few teeth longer). I never did do many Foresters - not the same marketability for me. And I avoid the 99's specifically. The 99 Forester engine were significantly more expensive at the time compared to the Legacy's (like 1,500 versus 1,100).

Didn't listen. But I have that flex joint cut out and a plain piece of pipe welded in at a place that can bend exhaust pipe. Really makes sense to me in the long run. It's kind of a wimpy connection anyways and not worth obtaining true replacement parts because of what you'd need due to rust.

DOHC 2.5 Just like the Legacy's. The next year they went SOHC. So the traditional HG issues. Baffle plate leaking issues(IIR still plastic). Never tried it but should be 2.2 swappable if the engine is junk.

Either pull the whole assy or just the fans/plastic. Removing fans then the rad is double work. If it's an auto the lower tranny hose can be a PITA. An excellent use for hose clamp pliers but still can be difficult. If you remove the rad search for "burping procedures" here for a 2.5. Sorry about typo's. Doing 2 things at one time (I HATE taxes, and the prep). My mind runs faster than my fingers. When I have time I actually do preread and check, and often go back and correct. On the cardboard or old paneling. It will set in the rad support - and keep falling towards the engine. A bungy can help hold it upright - just make a complete loop with bungies down the front, under the rad support, out the top. This has worked better for me that trying to anchor it at the hood latch or other choices. VC bolts will kinda bottom out all of a sudden. I haven't needed a procedure since Endwrench has been down - man I'll miss it. Folks were trying to save what articles they had. Worth a look. Most/all or what you're doing should be covered in the head gasket procedure. When are you doing this?

Odds are very good its te oil seperator plate. Unless someone has already pulled the engine or trans to fix it. And you can often tell that by looking at eng/trans bolts, or simply where the eng/trans meet - if it has never been disturbed. Heck - I even scotch brite then anti-seize the mating surfaces. If the oil gets on the Y pipe at the Y the odds are really good.

O ring naked. Ultra grey on the mating surface instead of a gasket. Some folks locktite the oil pump screws. Other than that I believe you've got it. If the engine is in the car remove rad fan assy (or entire rad assy). If you don't pull the actual rad I ALWAYS protect it with cardboard of an old piece of paneling.

Antifreeze in the oil - it's junk. May last long enough to do a bunch of work and get another 1k out of it - but it's junk. Bearings don't like anti-freeze and the rod bearings in that engine are hardly the poster child for sturdy bearings.

Get an OEM WP gasket. It's rubber coated metal. INSTALL DRY. I buy the WP local (make sure it has a metal impeller). Throw out the cardboard gasket in the box and use OEM.

NO GASKET for the oil pump. The Ultra Grey makes the seal. Be gentle with the ultra gray. Don't want it oozing anywhere and especially into an oil pump. As far as the screen - I don't recall. I don't think there is one - just on the pickup tube. Check the screws on the back. Loctite if you wish. OEM Oring. Some ultra grey to seal it against the case. You can look here for opionions on when to install the crank seal (that's really on the oil pump). Some install it on the pump face then slide it over the crank. I'm always afraid of knocking it loose/messing it up. Personally I install the oil pump cover then drive in the crank seal. But whatever you want to do. FYI a lot of auto parts have that Lisle tool. I've also seen it at several Sears with decent tool departments (tend to be older Sears).

I use assembly lube instead of grease - but grease should be fine. As for pulling you can be very careful and use a pick, screwdriver, or try the putting in some screws method. After doing the pick/screwdriver many, many times I bought a Liste puller. Looks kinda like a screwdriver with a few gizmo's on the end. Search around here - I know I've seen a part# and pic. Under 20 bucks. You can get by without it. But if you scratch especially the crank 20 bucks will seem wise. Get that oil pump Oring at the dealer. Use ultra grey to seal the oil pump. I use a PVC coupling as a driver. The same PVC piece will do both seals. Just put the seals in your pocket and go to a hardware store/lumber yard. Real seating tool is good, socket will work.

It's less than 10 bucks a can. Follow the directions. My guess would be that sensor wouldn't get as well cleaned. However it's all up to you. I've still got a foot of snow on the ground so if working outside I'd just do the seafoam to see how it does. Worst case you'll need to do it again after taking the anti-fouler out. If it's convenient I'd take the anti-fouler out.

On older Suby 2.5 DOHC's I've had success with seafoam. On a few cars I gave them the seafoam through a vacuum line, out another 1 or 2 k on them with no more codes. I've done the anti-fouler trick one time and it worked for me also. Again late 90's 2.5 DOHC. The Seafoam thing makes a TON of white smoke though. Dont' know if it cleans the O2 sensors of the cats - but who cares. Last I heard my ex GF was having the same exact issues (since just past warranty) on a 2006 Impreza. She kept letting the dealer clear the code blaming it on gas until it was out of warranty. Now it's past warranty the dealer wants to fix it - amazing! She's now over 100k for sure.

Since you're local try "Franks auto Supermarket", a small place (like 5-6 locations called A&G auto parts) as well as Advance and Autozone. I usually get Monroe's. Franks often has the mount kits for almost half the price of the other guys. Sometimes on suspension and exhaust they have terrific pricing. Just not always worth a trip tp Indiana or Greensburg for me. A&G is my local (and favorite) parts store. One in Kittanning, near Indiana, I deal with Apollo. I put KYB's on some VWs but usually Monroe's are just fine for me. When possible I prefer to deal with a local place. That way if there would be a problem I can go and speak english and get the problem resolved quickly.

It should tell you what cylinders are miss fireing. I've experienced similar symptoms on early 90's with bad fuel injectors. I forget if the red ones or grey ones were the "better" ones. Haven't had trouble with the 95-99's but symptoms sound alike from what I remember.

Sounds like a coil pack or wires. Are wires OEM. If so if the coil pack a "Diamond" brand? Can't help with a local guru. But search around here. There things (wires, coil) are easily done. Only caveat is I like hose clamp pliers for removing plug wires at the heads.

Great for hubcaps, and all kinds of stuff. I miss my old dishwasher. Cascade liquid works for cleaning your ceramic bath/shower tile (a tenant told me about it), also works excellent as a coolant flush, I'm not kidding. My local radiator shop has been known to use it from time to time. I have an old commercail parts washer but need new juice. Mine is a mess. Bought used, then degreased a ton from a long time leaking rear main on a 71 VW bus. Don't see a decent way to clean it. Haven't turned it on in months so I may try and pul the cleaner stuff off the top.