davebugs

I don't usually work on anything that new. But I know their idlers don't come with the lip on them. I've never had a problem and have probably installed 20 or 30 of their kits. I've had 2 issues with my orders over the years. Infact the last kit I ordered was for a 2.5i and I got a kit for an STI I believe (an extra smaller idler) so I sent back the small idler and belt. They have always treated me well. The other problem had been I tried their valve cover gaskets and I needed DOHC and they sent SOHC - I think they just credited me for it. Hopefully they will change this kit for future orders. Still sucks.

Yep. I usually figure about 1k-1,500 including getting the heads done/checked, rad flushed, resealing the engine, New WP, idlers, belts, spark plugs, etc. 1,800 for just the HG's - you need to find a different shop. Heck - the dealer may even be cheaper. If you go to sell it outright PM me. I buy cars like that and fix and sell them as a hobby. Haven't done many lately and usually do the DOHC's but a friend is needing one so he doesn't have to plow his driveway to his hilltop home for his GF.

A bit OT but on a VW forum I frequent there was talk of NASCAR perhaps courting VW? NASCAR hasn't even been good to watch since all the slick marketing guys showed up - like the last 10 years or so. The old characters were part of what made it. Now they are just mobile decals for marketing and a money grab. Which is why if I attend a race these days it's on dirt. Personally I believe NASCAR peaked several years ago and is simply looking for revenue any way they can rather than making their product better. Through new nameplates(Toyota), through high visibility drivers (Danika and now Pastrana), heck who's the guy driving for Ganassi that came from Formula One? He came for the money and basically stated as much when he made the switch. The highly regulated quality of the races isn't very exciting. It's all about the money, including beer sales and marketing. Too bad.

Nothing sucks more than breaking a car that was running. And an electrical gremlin to boot. I feel for ya... Good luck.

Yep. T-stat is where lower hose attaches to WP snout. You remove the hose, then the snout to get at the T-stat. But sounds like you may need an upper hose. For less than 25 bucks I'd replace both hoses, and grab an OEM T-stat. Even with fresh coolant you'll be maybe 50 bucks with a few hose clamps. From your description this should solve it. Even on 2.2's it's best to fill the coolant through the top rad hose as much as possible. If this doesn't solve it atleast you know where you stand. But your description of your issue is rare.

Release button is hidden by a black plug. From memory. Basically to the right on the "P" on that piece of plastic that the clear gear selection is shown in. Take out the plug (1/4-3/8") and just push a screwdriver in there. This will let the shifter release. Someone who has done this recently perhaps will add/correct.

A little power. A little messing with some vacuum and EGR lines. No bracket for the PS lines. That's it!!! Much more reliable engine. Reseal it, idlers, WP, timing belt, spark plugs, etc while it's out.

And way more reliable when you're done. NO HG or bearing issues - atleast they are very rare on 2.2's.

Welcome. Lots of good folks and info around here. Chances are you'll meet some of them it seems. A friendly, helpful bunch. Please update Watsontown to also say like "north central PA" or whatever applies. This way you increase your odds of meeting folks, folks possibly lending a hand, etc.

Guesses - MAF - something still cracked/not right. Miss fires - coil pack classic symptoms (for a 1&2, or 3&4 problem). Heads/timing if 1&3 or 2&4. Get a Diamond if possible (rather than generic). MAP code is usualy the small hoses going to that gizmo on the passenger strut tower, or that little quarter sized thing in the middle of a line missing or bad. The 106 doesn't ring any bells of the top of my head. But others will chime in.

I don't think they have much experience with Subaru's. That or the Subaru owners they have dealt with are wealthy and clueless( a more common situation than one might think - rich/clueless). Motor oil smells very different than heavy grease (axle lube, diff lube) but as GG pointed out one time - they all smell the same on the internet (meaning that if you don't know the difference you could easily state the wrong fluid's smell). Run. Run like the wind...

I've heard the TPS can be involved and somewhat difficult to adjust. Therefore I swap the throttle body. But I've sold a few TPS sensors. Takes more electrical expertise than I'm willing to learn to adjust when the new one is installed. So keep that in mind. You may just want to swap the throttle body - and they can vary by the # of little vacuum lines IIR.

Sucky toy!! I have a Pella. Excellent to use for this (as well as oil changes on a lot of cars - on my VW I get MORE out with sucky toy than pulling the plug). Last Suby ATF level I had to mess with I got a little smarter. Layed the Pella tube next to the ATF dipstick and marked the level with a litlte tape. Then I knew just how far down the tube to jamb the pickup tube. I HATE ATF level checking. That's why I usually check the level with the old fluid, measure what I drain, and add back the same amount. Old fluid is so much easier to read. Great gizmo. IIR mine was like 60 bucks years ago. Looks kinda like an old "party ball" beer keg. Sold a lot by marine places.

They frown on in in PA. Had a nice discussion with the officer. I had bought a wrecked 95 Legacy and took it up and down the road to check out the engine and trans. First trip Bungy's broke, hood flew up, smashed windsield, and I was driving with my head out the window at 55mph until I could find a place to pullover (on the left - or course - the only side I could see). So I removed the hood. Yea - drove by a cop. The smashed windshield might have caught his eye... Interesting discussion followed... For hood alignment (and other alignments like when doing struts) I keep a can of dollar store spray paint. I paint the critical area. Sore beats trying to follow any kind of paint stick mark since I never really seem to be able to get the whole way into the corners. This handles that. Now I wouldn't be doing it on a 2010 or anything, but it sure works.

I've done a fes 98 & 99 Foresters, and looked at many more. Found this to be true. Note that this rad I believe is interchangable with an Impreza. Cap is on the "other" side from a Legacy.

SCREWS!! I believe you need new screws for the new baffle plate.

After sucking a little out I add a quart of ATF and usually try and drive it less than 5 miles, then drain it, change filter, etc. You want the car up to operating temp but I wouldn't run it for days or much of a trip. If the car is overfilled and you don't have a sucky toy I'd consider cheap oil and one quart of ATF. Just don't change the filter until you drain this flush batch.

I typically don't exactly take the cheap way out. But I gotta tell you atleast around here on CL and the truck guys still want atleast a couple k for the same sized boxes that are well used. I have Snapon, Matco, and Cornwell carts and some boxes. Over the past year I just haven't been able to find anything close to a deal. Or more appropriately close to the 1k I was willing to pay for another toolbox. If a deal is 3k for a box that retails for 6k that didn't interest me. I don't need a tajmahal. Just a good decent box. Not trying to impress anyone, just a good servicable box. I have a smaller Sears Professional set that's probably 20 years old that's still in excellent shape and definately well used. Time will tell , as usual.

Were the HG's OEM? If not I'd do them. Check the crank/cam seals while it's one, VC gaskets. Heck I'd throw a new set on NGK's in it anyways while it's out and they easy - we're talking less than 10 bucks.

Kind of dangerous. That said in the past I've used ATF (high detergent oil really), some folks used to use rislone. I believe some folks here use MMO shortly before an oil change.

Gary, On my local CL I got a set of torches (large and small victor), a too large homemade cart I've since given away, a bunch of hose and some odds and ends for less than 200. Then I got a propane tip. The tank game is something else. Apparently they can't (or won't)pressure test and recertify these - atleast not without sending them out. I ended up getting small bottles at tractor supply - cheapest and easiest for small stuff compared to my local welding/gas places. IIR for the small bottles you can swap in anything a lot of times - they aren't picky. The larger bottles I think they like theirs back when swapping. For a lot of bolt heating, etc I use propane. I'm hardly an expert and don't attempt to use them for welding. They work well for what I need - just need to get the time to learn to use them better. In short used decent torches, then buy a tip cleaner kit and perhaps some tips will set you up. But a lot of the cost, and certainly ongoing cost is the tanks and gas. You can rent them but that means you're paying for them even when you're not using them. Therefore TSC is open weekends and eve's and I can swap them there and that's worth a few bucks to me.

Ordered the box tonight for 999.98 - black only. Blue was another 500 and stainless another 500 on top of that. Should be in on friday. If you're looking for a box it's the best deal I've found for a large box of apparent decent quality. Atleast for a non-professional.

Baffle plate and oil seperator plate are the same thing. I reseal the plastic ones with Ultra Grey, some folks get new metal ones and the matching screws. The metal one would need sealed as well. I ALWAYS get the flywheel resurfaced. But I do everything completely! No sense not to while you're in there. For instance when I do HG's I almost always send them out to be checked/surfaced even if they are within 4 thousandth's. I also always send the radiators out to be flushed and pressure tested. I leave the rear main seal alone unless it's already been replaced - because if it's been replaced it's likely leaking, if original it's probably not. Thinking of timing belt, crank & cam seals, idlers, etc or just gonna do the complete clutch job?