davebugs

Get the clips at the dealer that hold the TO bearing. Reseal the baffle plate, leave the rear main seal alone. Check the clutch fork closely for hairline crack. You pulling the trans or engine? I pull the engine and do all the major maintenance and reseal it.

Check the coolant overflow bottle for scum - either oily from HG issues or "magic HG cures". 45 minute ride to see if it suddenly over heates. You can look for evidence of new HG's. If new radiator cap (ans especially WP) and still no new HG's - odds are VERY good it needs them. Ask the old owner what's been done and by who(to make sure they used OEM HG's, got the harmonic balancer tight, etc) Too bad you're so far away - I have 3 or 4 of those used mufflers from cars I've parted. ANy oil smell is likely baffle plate (requires engine pull) or VC gaskets or fromt seals. If you think you're gonna keep it and it's an oil leaker you could just pull the engine and do it all along with timing components abd be set for a very long time.

Often not without swapping the rear diff as well. A GUESS would be the 2.2 is from an L and the 2.5 from an Outback or GT. Don't get me wrong - the tranny will probably bolt up - but you also need the matching diff. And swapping the driveline shouls cause odometer issues. But if you swap both pieces it should work assuming sensors and such are the same.

Thanks for the feedback. My "local" Costco is 50 miles. And the boxes that Sams club, Tractor Supply, and HF have don't excite me much. That 23 drawer box for "Craftsman Club" members starting today for 7 days is 999.98 - a heck of a deal. I can't find anything used to touch that on CL or from one of the truck guys in used. Sure for all out price I may be able to beat that. But I would like decent quality. Haven't decided yet. But started making room to atleast be able to unload it if I get it home. We've got crappy weather heading our way for several days. FYI Usually the craftsman club thing just pre-runs standard sale fliers. So don't be surprised if it's inthe Sears flier and on the website in a week or so. Currently there is zero feedback on the Sears site.

I have had similar problems and it's turned out to be rubber hose plumbing. MAF plugged in? Usually I forget that stiff 1" tube about a foot long on the airbox that's kinda hidden on the pass side. But that causes it to die IIR and not rev before it does. I'd triple check all rubber lines. Vacuum, breather, even make sure the hose clamp holding the airbox to the throttle body has no leaks.

The drivers side intake has compression on it. It want's to be tough right until you get it where you want it, then it spins past where you want it. Look around for excellent procedures - there are several here. I've taken to clamping the TB to those cam sprockets and the crank, and installing that lower tensioner last. That's what works for me. The plastic plier kind of clamps. Because keepint that drivers side cam still and ligned up and getting the rest of the belt on never seems to work for me without this trick. What brand of belt? Reason I ask is a Dayco never quite ligns up on the drivers side for some reason. I hear the OEM one does.

Seems like between 120k and 180k they let go. Best thing it to do the HG's timing belt, reseal, etc and be done with it all. Search around here. Lots and lots of discussion. You could try and look at the gaskets and try and tell if they have been replaced. If you didn't already know (something else that'll be turned up by search) these HG's fail in a unique way. After a drive (I use 45 minutes) if they leak suddenly the temp will spike and it'll blow the coolant out of the overflow bottle. If you jsut made 5 mile trips you could run a car for years and be clueless. No white smoke and will pass a compression test (since they are done cold) but can still have bad HG's.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_009H0016000B?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3 WIll be 1k starting sun for Craftsman Club members, I believe usually a week after that they are in the normal add. Other boxes on sale also (It's cmas!). Anyone have this large griplatch box that was a new product a few years ago? It goes on sale about one time per year for half price. Although I have't been in the garage in a year I'd like to get all my crap into one pile! My cmas choices to myself are this box, or the Best Buy Sony 46" LED TV and PS3 combe for 1,300. I'm an old computer guy, but have never played a computer game. I suppose I could sale the PS3. Thoughts on Sears boxes? I have a few mid sized better quality ones and a few of those cheap 2 piece 100.00 ones that I use as cart usually. The better quality one is 20 years old and seems to be doing fine with slide drawers. I've been checking CL for Snap-on, Matco, Cornwell. I do have carts from those guys and like them.

I deleted my original response. Because this is largely about politics pandering to corn farmers (Obama always says "corn based Ethanol" rather than just Ethanol). And don't forget the other do-gooders who don't realize we loose energy and make more pollution producing and transporting Ethanol related materials than the benefits. And I invest heavily in alternative energies and products so I have a decent idea of what I'm talking about. I'm not just making offhand comments. Anyone who would like to discuss can PM me. I'm always willing to learn or find out places where I need to do more Due Diligence. This thread isn't the place. But basically bend over like the lady in your icon. I head the Marine Stra-Bil is better than the old red stuff. I also hear Seafoam is a great fuel stabilizer and works well in Ethanol. This comment from my local small engine shop. And small engines were where some of the original Ethanol problems surfaced. Remamber this crap we gotta buy draws moisture big time.

That was already mentioned in this thread. Won't help if they are already leaking. But Subaru uses it like a "miracle cure". They put it in all years after doing a HG job I was told just last week.

Real glass shops do still exist. Insurance will try and push to you to a chain of guys in vans. They get real good prices, and you get a crappy windshield. Safelite did my last one - twice. WIndshield is crap and just cracked. Advance auto paid - twice, and almost a 3rd time for a genuine OEM VW one. Lets just say that I've made it up in parts. I'd look for a "real" glass shop. Take it there, they'll take it indoors and in heat, and do it.

In PA (like a lot of states) it's mostly about the money. At one time we had inspections every 6 months. Then they actually went to a year and everyone wondered why the gov't would give up that money. Turns out they knew the emissions gravy train was coming! Force inspection stations to buy certain machines from "approved" sources (read kick backs). Still sell 2 stickers per year (now one inspection and one emission), keep getting the federal tax money (that WE paid in) coming back to us by jumping through the fed's hoops. The emissions machines, training & certification, care, feeding, calibration are very good for the state. I don't care much about the windshield as long as it's not in the line of view. The unseen stuff, especially for folks that just get in and drive do concern me. Things like brake LINES, even more than pads. Gas lines, Unibody rust, Suspension parts (bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends) stuff like that. Lights - easy to check but I worry more about structural stuff. If you're in a non emissions area the car can run so poorly it can't get out of it's own way but it'll pass. If the lights work, brake lining is good, etc. Thing can run like crap. If you're in an emissions area it can still run like crap, but if it passes emissions yoiu're golden. You may get run over getting onto an interstate - but the car will have a fresh inspection sticker!

Perhaps someone with similar experience will chime in. If I had a car using oil like that it'd already be parked until it was fixed - no matter how broke I was. Because it ain't gonna get any easier or less costly to fix, and is likely to cause more problems, which means more work and money.

Almost sounds like the cat. Do you know is it's burning the oil or it's leaking somewhere. BTW that sounds like a lot of oil. What is the problem with that?

Take your seals (crank and a cam) to the hardware store and get a PVC coupler. One coupler will work for crank and cam seals.

Get the whole internet idler kit, OEM seals and WP while you're at it. Then if the Head Gaskets are good you likely won't need to do it again.

Welcome. I still do some work on old air cooled VW's that I own and an occasional TDI. You'll love Subaru's. When you get a change update your location so we have a clue where you live. Sometimes folks will lend a hand.

Search here for Duty C solenoid. That's what the 16 flashes is trying to tell you. Edit: ALso look at the bottom left of this screen at the "similar threads"

John - I was mostly trying magnets on the shaft of the extension and the socket. I'll try the tape next time. OP - it's also called the "oil seperator plate". Any Subaru parts guy will know what you want. If not don't buy there. These are a very common problem. Folks here get the new metal plate AND SCREWS to go with the new plate. I've never bought a new plate myself though. Are you ordering a knock sensor too?

45 minutes is my magic time. After you overhead it - let it cool down. Add coolant (which will only be so successful) and don't overheat it any more on the way back home. These are a PITA to burp so it's hard along the road. You could try filling through the top hose then topping off the rad after it's cooled off along the road. May help, certainly won't hurt.

You want the car fixed, you're gonna have to start with the knock sensor. Pay attention to the angle of the wire and don't over torque it as has been pointed out. If you have access to shop air blow around it before removing the old one. It's a little hard to get to and you don't want crap getting between the sensor and the block. They are simple to install but can get a little frustrating. Make sure you have the tools before you start. Including a long extension(or several short ones) and I use a wobbly extension. I always "loose" the bolt a few times so a magnetic pickup is more handy than the "pickle picker" type for me in this case. Disconnect the old one before removing the bolt. You can then try and use the wire of the new one to try and line up the new sensor. I've tried lowering with the bolt in place, putting the sensor in place then inserting the bolt. WIsh I could tell you that I knew the trick. Figure about 10-15 minutes of unpleasantness until it just seems to work. I remove the airbox to be able to see better, even though I know exactly where it is.

I wish you well. You may get very good at this by the time you're successfully done.

Did you use OEM gaskets? If not you might as well fix them both again on a 2.5.

Don't forget the clips? A couple bucks at the dealer. Everything else will be new. And I've seen them fail.

I've seen folks change the filter and use the old fluid to try and minimize this exact issue. That's the idea behind me sucking out some fluid every 2 years and adding Lucas ATF additive since my van is typically dedicated to towing. However I seen to be a bit of an expert on lowing tranny lines while towing and loosing a lot of fluid. FYI I have also seem the exact same behavior when folks with diesels switch to high bio-diesel mixtures. Often they are bright enough to change the rubber fuel lines, but forget about all the crap in the fuel tank and system that is gonna become mobile after the bio effects it. They need many fuel filters over the next short period of time.