davebugs

Those get brittle and subject to easily breaking even with the engine on the stand in warmer weather. Not that you're any better off in your situation - it's just that it's doubtful anything you specifically did caused this. This unpleasantness was probably gonna happen anyways.

I usually get the Valeo "better" kit. By that I mean it's like another 20 bucks to get all the parts mad ein the USA or Japan (ie no Chinese or other crappy parts). I used to the the Rhino Pak cluthc kits locally but typically the clutch plate and often the pressure plate were Valeo and that kit cost like 250. Online with a complete Valeo kit IIR I could save about 100 bucks. But I haven't done one in a year and a half. Perhaps someone with other oprions and more recent experience can also answer.

My guesses are it's still one of those 3. ALternator (most likley), battery (you just replaced) or connections. I'd assume the connections were cleaned when the new batttery went in? If you let them do it that's not a safe bet however. Check the alternator connections at the alt. Often another symptom is the ABS and onother dash cluster light coming on but NOT the alternator light.

IIR the PS pump can probably stay. But then again I do this with the engine on a stand so the PS pump is already off. There is no bolt IN the PS pump. There is a bracket that goes straight back behind the pump. a 14mm IIR. Then the 3 smaller ones in the front. I don't think you wanna disconnect everything, Especially with the engine in the car and outside if you can get away without it. I often put some small chunks of 2x4 as shims kinda. Figure the wood won't scratch any surfaces. There are some hoses IIR back by the throttle body especially a smaller (1/2" or so) coolant hose, the temp sensor for the dash gauge under #3 intake, and other stuff that's rather awkward and unpleasant. Not to mention stiff in the conditions you're working with. I can usually pull up and get a couple inches of clearance with all hoses (vacuum, coolant) still connected and wireing and harness still connected. Just enough to do the job. FYI for me this gasket has typically removed pretty cleanly - especially on the intake side - which is good. If there is any material left behind it's usually on the heads and easy to see and work on.

I've done a lot of Suby's mostly 95-99. Never seen clear ATF.

There is another size PVC coupler that will do bothe the crank and cam seals. I always put the same smooth side towards the seal. Because the other end gets beat up some from hitting it. Then again my current coupling has probably installed over 100 Subaru seals.

I use the 3" coupler. Often with a piece of 2x4 over it to help the pressure be even when hitting with the hammer.

I do the drain, fill, drain, fill, drain, fill method. Last one was the GF's 2006 Impreza. I believe I used a total of 14 qts of Wolfs Head Universal Synthetic. I created a thread at the time. I was trying to do a drain & fill every second or third oil change. A lot of us in a variety of vehicles have had tranny troubles after servicing a long neglected tranny. It's happened to me after trans lines have blown for instance. Do you drop the pan, change the filter, or just add fluid. I've had better luck w/Chevy's just adding the fluid if I didn't know the service history. On the used Astro vans I buy I've tkaen to using sucky toy (Pella) and every other year or so sucking out about 2 quarts and replacing with a bottle of Lucas and toping off with tranny fluid. My VW TDI as "lifetime" fluid. I don't trust it. I do it every 60k or so. It seems that if a tranny had long been igonored, that it's better to continue that treatment. It's the only thing I know of that seems that way. Where maintenance could actually possibly be bad if it had been ignored long enough.

Around here the crank sensor often gets corroded in the hole pretty bad. Not uncommon for them to break during removal. Then it's a bit of a mess. Don't know how much salt/chemicals you folks see. May be worth spraying it days ahead if you can.

Post a meaningful location. Someone here may be able to steer you to a mechanic with firmiliarity of Subaru's or assist you to do it yourself.

I'm confused. 14" and 15" are same diameter? I'd assume you're talking about the outer tread diameter. That said I think they gotta be different. My limited knowledge is that the second number is the "aspect ratio". Basically with a 195/70 that the sidewall lenght is 70% of the 195 the tread width. If they started on different diameter rims the overall diameter would be different. I suspect the OP may be looking for that Miata tire calculator website to calculate the overall diameter of the tire and width.

STOP with the cam caps!!!! You gotta look around. The front ones get less torque. Take it from a fella that thought when the first bolt on the first cam cap in the front broke - that is was a fluke. Actually if you look at them the shaft of the front bolts are thinner. Don't remember the specs. But the ones closest the front get torqued less. I get get me a spiffy new set of the left handed drill bits and extractors. But I would have been happier just skipping that whole experience.

Actually the head bolts get dipped in, or liberally squirted with oil. Some will creak pretty good no matter what you do.

I loosen part of a turn, soak them more, tighten them that part of turn, continue. It's best if you can wire brush the other side of the threads. I used the undo, spray, tighten, spray,undo,spray... method last week on a 95 Legacy. Rad bolts were bad. Bolts were so rusty that the top ones for the headlights are rusted so bad you'd never get a socket on them. I figured I'd be putting those 2 top rad brackets back on with self tapper's. Patience and lube. Sure beats fixing more stuff.

Of all the correct information in this post, this is the funniest. And also correct!

You may wanna search around at tdiclub.com to see if anyone has done that conversion. There are some interesting conversions going on, including into Jeeps discussed over there.

I buy a Dayco. I have used their belts on a few non-interference engines for cheap folks with kids that are likely to wreck the car before the timing belt dies.

Here's what I do with the accessory belts. I get one 1/2 inch longer than called for on the Power Sterring side (hate taking out the bolts and "tilting" the PS pump to get that belt on often) and I get one 1/2 shorter on the alternator side. What is called for you have your tensioner almost the whole way tight before the belt gets tight. IIR jsut add 5 to the # of the PS belt, and subtract 5 from the alternator belt #. Your parts house should be able to help you with this.

Haven't heard from OP. When I reread this title. Wonder what he manes by "timing belt fixed". You'd think it would read something like "timing belt maintenance completed".

Great. A happy ending AND you posted your resolution.

There is a little black button. If you're lucky it's right behind the hood release inside. If you're unlucky it's a black button taped up (hidden - atleast originally) under the steering column. You can probably search for pics. It's a bit of a perverse situation - a Subaru alarm. You can typically still start and drive the car, the 4-ways just blink slowly. Eventually they will kill the battery. Grab a flashlight, and head to the drivers side floormat and look up and feel.

You've successfully set off the alarm. That's the slowly blinking 4-ways.

My first guess would be that they got one of the accessory belts too tight.

John, I've NEVER crossed the fuel lines. I've always done things like this. Partly because I seem to have a bad memory. Partly because I'm used to getting interrupted with car projects. Infact I've had the engine out of my 71 VW bus that has my lift tied up for over a year. Long ago I learned to take pics as I disconnect, tear down, etc. When digital cameras became affordable that has helped a great deal. Throw in a paint stick, I use nail polish to mark timing marks, and you're pretty much set. When doing a project that may get interrupted I'm one of those guys that bags and tags (writed with permanent marker) on ziploc bags bolts and such. Realizing that I often don't remember is why I do things like this. It also has the benefit of improving my odds of not shooting myself in the foot on simple stuff. Skip here helped me do my first Subaru engine R&R. He encouraged me to do it when I had no experience with Subaru's. I think I drove him a bit nuts with wanting to take pics, etc my first 2 times. Haven't needed to with a Suby since. But it definately helps improve my level of confidence and helps stop little things from being a diagnostic problem later.

First question - did you accidentally get the fuel lines on backwards? I always leave one hose on the intake, the other on the filter, to make sure I get the 2 big hoses back on correctly. Do you have fuel? When you crank and crank do you smell any gas?