davebugs

It'll SUCK. I've had to follow folks who used crap like this before. Can't swear it was Indian Head but how many other products like that are there? OEM, dry, done. Another sidebar discussion. Just like the only rear main seals I've ever needed to replace had already been replaced. The only leaking waterpumps have always been the gasket, and always cardboard or permatex, or Indian Head - never OEM. Something else to think about. Did I mention - just get the OEM gasket?

I've installed many of their idler sets. I usually buy a Dayco belt local, and the WP is the same local where I'm getting plugs, accessory belts, etc so I just get them there. I did install one of their MitshbOshi belts on a 95 2.2 a few years ago and haven't heard anything back. I know that I've probbaly installed atleast 5 sets of their idlers that have gone another 100k because the folks asked me to do the next timing belt job and I don't work on other folks cars. Still a better gamble than letting OEM's go that long, and much more affordable than dealer. An excellent compromise.

OEM is rubber coated metal. They all look a little warped, don't worry. Install dry.

What are you looking for in Indiana? Depending on what you need I can suggest who may have what you're looking for. Skip - are you currently local?

I get an OEM WP gasket. Worth the money. I have a collection of the cardboard ones that come with the pumps that have never been used.

Not difficult. I've never even used a steering wheel puller - but getting a loaner one may not be a bad idea. I have a few around, and one in a 97 Outback parts car. I've had to pay up tp 100 (for an Impreza). But usually sell them for 30 + shipping and paypal. I'd imagine the 97 and 98 were the same - but I can't confirm. You may be able to online somewhere. Mine is known good - I drove the car home using cruise, no ABS light on.

One is behind a little hunk of metal behind the cam seal on the drivers side front. The aluminum piece that holds the cam sensor comes off, the O ring is behind it. Pass side is in the BACK. 2 bolts hold the plate in place - kinda looks like a boomerang. The old one will be hard, very hard. This "cover" can take some "finesse" to get back in.

I've heard that you can spend some quality time under the dash (after removing the panel under the steering column. Supposedly you can take out the security box and match up the connectors and the world becomes a happy place. My guess would one extra connector left. Never done it. But if you think about it I'd bet the wireing is the same whether the car has an alarm or not. Often it seems they were added by the dealer. For instance a lot of them don't have the little red blinking light on the dash. Again perhaps someone else will chime in.

re-read. By the hood release by the door opening. If it's not there it's taped up to wires under the sterring column and you really have to go on a search mission usually. Either way grab a light, put your but on the ground or kneal(sm?) down and look.

It resets the alarm. The on eby the hood release is easy to find - grab a light and look. The one under the stering column can be a real PITA to find. It also is black and taped up and hidden in wires. I'm sure there are pics somewhere here of the buttons. Depends how/where the alarm was installed apparently.

Do you know where the reset button is? The little black button? Either mounted by the hood release - or taped up under the dash in a mess of wires and hard to find.

I've never had the alarm stop a car from starting that I know of. Are you sure they are connected? As in if you hit the reset bitton the car starts? Perhaps someone here has had the same issue and will chime in.

year, model? We're not that good at guessing. On the 95-99's it just causes the 4ways to blink slowly most of the time. I was always amazed that you could actually start the car and drive off after the alarm going off.

no. Personally I'd say definately no way.

I moght suggest Kerosene as a lube. Won't evaporate as quickly as most other lubes. I know glass shops use it to keep their glass cuters in as a lube. Then you can start a post on how to get rid of the Kerosene smell. Really Gary, never heard of tape and newspaper? This thread was my morning laugh!

Gary, I'm a little dense this morning. Don't know what you're talking about. In the sedan's IIR there is a metal gizmo sticking out that looks like what pretrudes from the hood or trunk for the seats to latch to. Is that what you're asking about? Unfortunately I don't have a car here to look at. But I've dis-assembled enough that I may have a thought after I understand what you're asking.

Now I see the new thread.

IIR at one time those FWD auto's for a 92 were kinda pricey. Don't know why. I've only really redone on earlier than a 94. But I had a 92 with a zillion miles and the body falling off and a Subaru fella gave me money and pulled the engine, and I got the car back so he could get the tranny.

When I did a lot of Suby's I actually pretty much ran Henderson's out of 2.2 engines for a year or so. Excellent small time operation that's been in business for years. Not the biggest, but my local favorite. They are my first call for all foreign parts. Excellent folks.

May I suggest that you update the CITY in your profile and put something useful in there. There are some good folks here. Often they'll offer to have a look as a second set of eyes and often experience with your issue.

Search "head gasket failure" and similar here. Doubt the tube is the problem.

My guess is that they FUBAR'd the auto tranny pump. Didn't get the torque converter seated correctly and "pulled it together" with the engine to trans bolts. If that's the case now you need a new tranny. Bummer.

I'm not a big fan of used struts either. Could be a lot of work, that possibly could need done again soon. Part of why I replace the mounts if they aren't perfect for a car I'm gonna sell. Most of the time I repalce them. Not very expensive.

Rear's don't go near as often as fronts. I'd pick up the hardware kit for the top (rubber piece, etc) called a strut mount kit while at the auto parts. Cheap, I'd replace them while you have access, and if you don't want to replace them I'd have them onhand anyways - you can always return them. This way if one is dried out, cracked, whatever you already have the new one in hand. Sometimes you gotta "finesse" them a bit to get the new ones in.

If you're wiling to remove the engine twice that doesn't look that bad - the HG's or rear main. I never replace the rear main. I always use anit-seize on everything anyways. Next removal will be easier since it'll have alreadey been remoed recently, the anti-seize and probably new hose clamps all the way around. That said for the 100 bucks or so in parts personally I'd still be doing them while it's already out. ALong with resealing the baffle plate.