davebugs

I use a permanent market and LETTER the parts. A trick I learned long ago. I'm actually an old computer guy. When we'd run cables and gave them a number folks would try and read too much logic into the number. All I wanted was them to match both ends of the same cable - one at the computer and the other end wherever it was in the business. Folks would think for instance cable 1 would HAVE to go into slot 1 on the multiplexer in the back of the computer. In reality cable 1 had no meaning - just a way to identify both ends of the same cable. For instance I'd see systems someone else installed and the multiplexers used to be numbered 0-7 (for the 8 slots). Almost always slot 0 was free - because there was no cable labeled 0 !! Same with backup sets of media. So long ago I started to enploy lettering. For instance on this job one may want to relate the number to a particular cylinder - but there is more than one valve per cylinder. I use a sharpie and an old oil box for each side. I mark everythink including the cam caps. Don't forget markings on the heads will be removed if you have them sent out to be done. So scratch a legend on them somewhere before sending them out. The steam cleaning will remove the sharpie.

GG, I was waiting as well. I'm thinking the same as you. I'd put it this way. I wouldn't buy a new trans until AFTER I pulled things apart and had a look at all the moving parts. Clutch fork, TO bearing, clips, heck - even the slave cylinder. Trans failures are actually very rare in my exerience. ANd even then it's usually the diff it seems.

Like Mike said occasionally I sell one of these used. Not many seem to go bad really. Not hard to change out. I'd use the procedure for replacing the HVAC light bulbs if you need one. With the additional tip someone mentioned about unhooking the cable at the floor rather than at the back of the control unit.

Exactly what I meant. If the alternator is gone, the car resorts to the battery until it is exhausted. The thread was asking about bad alternator symptoms. Net effect is what I proposed was happenning to the OP. I just skipped an unneeded(obvious to me atleast) step in the explanation. We're on the same page.

You have a real delimma. Personally any time I have the engine out I do the HG's. OEM HG's are under 100 bucks. Throw in other seals, belts, etc it can add up. I'd atleast do the HG's and a new timing belt. Assuming you have a decent torque wrench to torque the heads and the cam caps. I'd probably install new VC gaskets while it was out along with resealing the baffle plate. I go on the premise that if i do the HG's idelrs, WP, baffle plate, etc that it won't need pulled for atleast another 100k. If you're mentally trying to get just another 50k the Subaru "Conditioner" MAY get you there. The good news (if there is any) is what's been stated. The SOHC 2.5's leak externally. Which means you can see the leak on the driveway and keep adding fluid for a long time potentially. It WON'T suddenly spike after a 30-45 minute drive like a DOHC 2.5.

A lot of times you'll get an erroneous ABS light and another seemingly unrelated idiot light(I forget wha tit is). If it dies, and you have a good battery wait an hour, start it up, and head to the nearest battery place. Your distance between when it craps out will keep getting shorter. Often you'll notice there is no high RPM's - almost like a fuel delivery problem. That's really the battery dying since that's what you're really running off of.

My DD is a diesel. I'm still amazed how major car companies can have "issues" with transmissions for Diesels due to the torque. The emissions part is no mystery, unreasonable reg's will do that. But I'm talking basic engineering stuff for the tranny's. My current diesel is just getting broken in at 200k. I'd love to have the option of replacing it with a proven diesel that is horizontally opposed and AWD.

I always replace the fuel filter. So I suppose while you didn't mention it specifically that you did check all 3 hoses up there? I'd check the most prone to leak fuel problem - the filler tube. Doubt it's swap realted since it took so long to be an issue. Just good old dry rot, a critter, or rust(filler tube).

Hose pliers. I have Sunnax(sp?) and I've seen them at Harbor Freight. A set of 3. I think the HF ones are best for this - less angle at the end where they are rounded. The LAST thing you wanna go is leave part of the boot over the plug in the hole. Dielectric grease for the plug top and new boot. Definately anti-seize on the threads of the plug. Usually swearing is involved. Removing the washed bottle sometimes helps. Another trick is to get a long (like 3') extension and keep the ratchet out of the engine bay - especially on the drivers side. The long extension and a universal work well. I also have a SK or KD plug socket with a swivel built in. But you'll need an assortment of extensions and stuff. I find my like 1" snap-on extension works good in one of the needed combinations. Good luck. Don't hurry.

I'd think abotu a quick sand. Another coat of color (guessing that color will bond to roughed up color better). Then clear. But I'm hardly a bidy guy. But that would solve the not getting the clear painted in 24 hours.

I give him the benefit of the doubt. I figured he actually used the search function (a good thing) and found this thread. Then perhaps he recently did this successfully. Is the glass half full? Is the glass half empty? I prefer to see it as half full. But everyone can make their own judgement.

I think that's the theory. Actually I think it's all pretty forgiving until the clear coat goes on. Gotta be a reason the paint guys wanna use it rather than single stage. I get tired of them wanting to base/clear my antiques that certainly didn't come that way and never see the weather.

Ditto

I'd still reseal the baffle plate while I had access, even if you're skipping all the other engine stuff. Just takes basic tools (impact screw driver), cleaner, and ultra-grey. Yea the new ones are metal and rarely leak. But it's still buried and you'll literally be right there. GG and I were typing at the same time a few posts back. But essentially the same comments.

Yes - no rear main. I'd reseal the baffle plate. No new head bolts. Lube them well, but several will still creak a good bit. Look at the HG procedure. I'd say they aren't expensive. IIR like 80 bucks for OEM? But you'll need a decent torque wrench, usually a 12 point socket for the head bolts, etc. The torque procedure is a bit of a "mexican hat dance" with many steps. First with specific torque's then with portions of a turn in specific orders. We're assuming that the HG's have never been done and that you're likely to keep the car a while. I know folsk who will never reuse a timing belt after it's been in service.

In my opinion if you'd do it now the heads won't need anything done. Just clean up the surfaces on the heads and the block. I'd do the crank/cam seals while I was at it (wasn't mentioned with the WP, idlers, etc). Go OEM only. Even though it's metal I'd probably reseal the baffle plate. I'd even put fresh plugs in it while it's out. CHeck the VC gaskets, etc.

Kinda common - more common than it should be. Someone here told me that NAPA has them. And it was cheaper than the dealer kit (or wherver I could get a kit with glue and such). Anyways NAPA is the place to go. I do 95-99's but I'd expect the 94 to be the same.

It that little bit of creaking annoys you may I suggest you prepare yourself if you ever do a head gasket job. No matter how much lube, they always creak a lot.

Again if you search around here - or just pay attention to posts you'll see that the 2.5 isn't as sturdy as the 2.2. Yes if you do the head gasket in time before the rod bearings are effected by getting overheated, and often need to ignore harmless but somewhat noisy piston slap the 2.5 is good. Mind you it's not really that the 2.5's are bad, and really most of their issues are HG related - or atleast start w/HG issues, but the 2.2 is somewhat bullet proof. BTW I have a lift, engine hoist, tranny jack, etc. and still as stated always pull the engine to look it over, reseal it, etc.

Keep the 2.2

I"m always a bit paranoid and try and use the trim tool that goes around the plastic plugs to remove them when possible. Usually minimizes pulling htem out of the cardboard on the panel and possible screwing it up. Often you'll screw up one or more of the plastic clips - and/or someone in there before you will have. I've never had any luck finding them at a parts store. So I save some when I scrap a car. Usually the ones for the tailgate cover are butchered the worst. If you take time with the drivers door you should be o.k. - or close enough to o.k. not to worry about it. You can always go to the local JY and pull a panel there - where it doesn't matter. You may even get a few clips to have "just incase".

Have a new piece welded in or try the JB weld, or metal and hose clamps with some muffler patch stuff. FYI the exhaust has a pretty hard mount probably just before this piece you speak of (hard to tell without a diagram) and a rubber mount probably shortly after your hole, and another rubber mount at the rear. The possibilities of having it hit the floor are extremely remote based on what you've stated. Now if the rubber band kinda looking part of the mount or either stud (on the exhaust or body) is missing there might be a possibility.

I believe I have a complete intake off a 2001 2.5 without parts missing. Too bad you're not closer.

NO thread lock on the stuff with the cams. Anti-seize on the exhaust studs/nuts(whatever was removed).

Welcome to USMB. I've never had your exact issue. I have had bad crank sensor failure cause intermittent starting issue though. Try and see if you have spark when this happens. I"m expecting not, and don't know how much that'll help, but it's a start. The crank sensor, ignitor, coil pack, or computer couls all cause no spark. Miles? Car? COil pack brand? Spark plug wire brand? Spark plug brand? Miles since last tuneup?