davebugs

Start with the year so you know if it's interference or not.

I've been bitten by this. I think it's 97's that have the different rad, just like the starter. Has to do with the bottom 2 mounting pegs, perhaps more differences.

I've always used the importexperts w/no issues.

I keep the rear canister. I also believe a T is needed on the intake IIR to tap into the rubber lines. Been a while since I did a swap. But I always leave/use the original canister and play with the plumbing to get it to work.

I think folks here are thinking it's all too common when the last person to do a timing belt or WP job is clueless about how tight the nut on the crank pulley/harmonic balancer gets torqued. That's why the questions and requests for pics. Not so much rare, as tragic due to ignorance.

On my VW diesel it calls for H rated. I put T's on one time. Squealed, washed out, etc. I do see triple digits but never over 125 or so. I'm cruising on an interstate for long stretches at high speeds. The tires would squeal on on/off ramps and locally when cornering. Wore faster too. Yes I checked the pressures, rotated, etc. When I was considering the T's the fella at the tire shop recommended NOT going down to T's if you were used to the handling of the H's even if not doing high speeds. I only tried one set of T's so it could have just been that particular brand/model of tire. The snow tires I get are T rated. On a Suby I don't think the rating matters, you won't be going fast enough. And worst case they may make more noise or wear faster.

I don't believe that's an OEM seal. All the ones I have seen (or purchased at the dealer) are the Brownish like the crank and cam and not Black. Did OEM change or isn't that OEM?

Unwise to try that swap. Wireing/sensors/controls would be the issue. I believe it'll bolt right up. But when you want to start to plug stuff in it's gonna get very ugly very quickly.

Do a little searching on the rear main seal around here. Most folks, including myself recommend NOT replacing it. Lets put it this way. I've probably done close to 100 reseal jobs on 2.2 and 2.5's. The only 2 that I had to replace the rear main is because someone had replaced them before. Typically a tranny shop. The baffle plate is what leaks and folks think it's the rear main. Yea - I know the rear main may require pulling the engine (or tranny) again but it's one of those rare instances where it's usually better left alone. The "I'll do it while I'm in there" can often bite you with this one. That said the 2 I did have to install I used PVC to set and didn't leak. But seriousely do some searching around here and develop your own opinion on the rear main. Good luck. Search for "skipnospam" has one of my favorite writeups. Get a 14mm Swivel socket for especially the drivers lower nut. And IIR a 12mm swivel socket or offset box for the flex plate bolts. Other than that read up on making sure the torque converter is seated properly before re-installing the engine. On the rad flush. I prefer to support the local tradesman (who are a vanishing breed). He charges me 20 bucks for a flush and pressure check. And he's on my way to the shop that does my heads. I'd guess he does a better job that I could. Then again if you'd do a flush with the rad in the car it might catch some crap in the heater core as well. Also read up on "burping" the 2.5. Can be a bit moody and there are a few tricks. Have fun. Not really a difficult job. Oh yea - read up on making SURE you get the harmonic balancer/crank pulley TIGHT.

I use the Dayco belts but use the marks on the engine. First time was frustrating with the drivers side being under load. That's when I started using the plier type clamps to hold the belt to the cam and crank sprockets so the belt doesn't jump.

Chad, It's you car. Do you really wanna risk those idlers (especially the splined one by the WP) to go over a quarter million miles without a failure? I don't. And they are very easy access when doing a TB job. The Ebay ones are reasonably priced. Hope you make the next 100k. If not it's really not much money saved (or agrivation).

Dot(crank) and dashes (cam pulleys) ignore all else. Actually the splined piece that goes over the crank does have a hash mark at the back to line up with the mark jsut below the crank sensor. Following the arrows will get you in trouble.

I second the OEM Metal WP gasket and only ultra-grey for oil pan, baffle plate, oil pump. I also ALWAYS do oil pump O-ring, crank and cam seals - again all OEM. If you're working on an engine and the seals are black always replace them. If they are brown it's a tougher decision - that means they are OEM. IIR they each are around 8 bucks and are accessable when doing hte job you're doing so why not do them? Again while I'm in that deep I always replace all crank/cam seals. I use PVC pipe to set them. A note on the the oil pan and oil pump. If you go to a parts store they sell Fel-Pro or similar from a GASKET company. From the factory these things don't take gaskets just ultra-grey or anerobic(sp?). But if you ask for a gasket at a place that sells gaskets you'll come home with a gasket. I think Ultra Grey does better. You'll need Ultra Grey for the front cam caps in the corners anyways if you tear down the heads to have them checked. I always get the radiator flushed and pressure checked because by the time I get the car lots of "miracle cures" have already been tried. For VC gaskets I usually use Fel-Pro. Exhaust is a todd up but OEM seem thicker and are the same price as Fel-Pro but often you can re-use the old ones. Intake gaskets don't matter to me.

If you're the grammar police - you'll be busy around here... Enjoy yourself. Some of us like to add value and help folks. Other like to nit pick. (hey - I probably mis-spelled knit pick!!) Which am I? Which are you? Glad I'm me.

Simplify your life. OEM head gaskets. Basically same price as aftermarkets and NO issues. Welcome aboard to the USMB. Search around here a bit. Basically folks recommend OEM HG's and aftermarket idler sets. OEM plug wires, NGK plugs, OEM thermostat's.

I've usually found that where the pads sat is hard to do by hand well enough. If the rust got deep enough they will never really get totally smooth and you'll notice it a little when driving. If I have a car set for a year I plan on new rotors/pads and I closely check the brake lines (living in the rust belt and car is often parked in grass).

Yep. One of those little funnels with a long shaft for like a buck at the auto parts (come in maybe 4-6 colors) usually fit in there nice for me.

Curious to the resolution. Please post ultimate fix when found.

Actually now that I think about it I tried to reuse the belt off the first engine which was a 99 Forester. Than it wouldn't work on the 2000 SOHC from a Legacy.

I used to do enough of them that I'd like to think I'd have noticed that. But perhaps I didn't.

I've had issues with a 99 Forester. Took 3 engines to get a good one. A 99 forester SOHC was bad, a 2000 Legacy SOHC, also bad, finally a 2001 Legacy SOHC. If you think the timing belt you have for the 99 is impossible to install on the Legacy engine this is exactly what happened to me - and they call for a different timing belt. IIR the one for the 99 SOHC is smaller and when I couldn't get it on I called the parts store and the Legacy engine actually took a different belt. I swapped intakes, for some reason I believe motor mounts, etc.

It's mounted on a plate basically on the firewall in the center behind the throttle body. Black, held on with 2 screws. You can follow the wireing from the coil pack to it.

Yep

Did you replace those 2 little clips when you did the clutch kit? Those of the slave are usually what it ends up being for me. I always replace the clips when doing a clutch. Are we supposed to guess at the miles, and miles on this clutch? Folks here are good, but not that good.

You can definately get the PCI kits without the belts. But often it's cheaper if you get the entire kit and throw away the belt. They are actully fairly priced on the new style tensioners as well. I did install one of their MitsubOshi belts a few years ago on a 95 2.2 swap with the future owner's knowledge. As far as I know it's o.k. But being the paranoid sort I have a few of them here because I wouldn't risk one on an interference engine.