davebugs

Exactly. It could have been on the shelf to begin with for years before he bought it. It's still double aged. At the parts store and his shelf. It's just playing the odds. And even though a simple job. Better when it's planned and only done one time - atleast to me. We're talking what - the cost of a few fancy cups of coffee or happy meals? If it were a beater for me to run locally I think I'd still spring for the new belt.

I get their kits all the time. Then I source a Dayco belt locally. But the belts seem decent enough - especially for non interference. I get the belt locally for the smae price and am also picking up a WP, plugs, accessory belts, etc.

For the price I'd just buy a new one. Even if you do the work yourself (possibly twice) the inconvenience of possibly having the car die on the road, getting it home, not being able to plan when that will happen, just isn't worth what 20-30 bucks? Even if you think you work cheap. Possibly doing something twice and possibly spending that money anyways doesn't make sense to me at all. If you're married imagine the abuse. "You just fixed this car and now it's broken" or similar statements. It'd be worth more money than the belt to not have to hear that replay often. YMMV. I'd pitch it.

o.k. Don't laugh. I've seen more than one vehicle locally over the years painted with latex house paint and a roller. Not proud that I've seen it. Kinda one of those things you can't "unsee". Gotta be cheap, and a large selection of colors and a few "sheens". Heck you can get a gallon of mistint for what - 5 bucks? Can't get cheaper than that.

Sounds like an axle nut on my old VW bugs. 6' to 8' cheater bar and stand and bounce on it. A few years ago we broke a 3/4 snap-on breaker bar doing a bug axle nut. Snap-on guy couldn't believe it. He's paranoid of stripping it out. He said he did the 174 and it seemed to tighten up. He was afraid to go any further. Thanks for the quick reply Tom.

I see 145 in thread. My buddy says his book says 174 for a 2000 year model. He also remembers stripping one when he worked for a used car dealer and didn't really "enjoy the experience". Anyone offhand know what it is?

PS leak is common. PS fluid is red. Oil is brown.

I use PVC fitting all the time. And OEM seals. Never had a problem. I could just be lucky. But I'd suspect the seal first, and a score second. You can look for a score when you install the OEM seal.

No However anytime I have an engine "open" at all to the outside world I change the oil shortly after that. Liek I'll start it to look for leaks, let it warm up and change the oil. But I'm more paranoid than most folks (I prefer to think of it as thorough).

OEM seal? What did you install it with?

You might very carefully spray the tensioner bolt NOW, and agin in the morning. The bolt is metal and the other piece is aluminum - and they don't play well together. Make SURE you undo the jamb nut before undoing the tightening bolt. Or you'll strip the aluminum dog (don't know what to call it - and it's a dealer item - and costs more than it should) when you loosen the adjustiing screw. I forget - someone will know. Space is limited for the jamb nut. It helps to have an offset 12mm? for the jamb nut that tightens the adjuster. The short bolt I'm talking about is really in the center of the pulley. As pointed out definately get a new belt.

Rent or borrow a car. I've had them appear to be fine and the car make it less than 15 miles. Or have a friend pick one up and bring it to you tonight. No need to cause a crisis tomorrow evening!!

I have used this method. Just make sure you're breaker bar will reach by the battery box WITHOUT a cheater bar. I have a snap-on breaker bar that just makes it by about 1/4 inch and it's what I use. Adding a cheater to a shorter bar wouild make it even more dangerous.

Oops - yea that's what I meant. Holds that little piece of black plastic that covers the pulley on the AC unit and is held on by one of the long AC compressor bolts. Because I've forgotten the bracket in the past.

By the alternator to hold the alt belt shroud?

Jamb something into the "window" where the engine meets the trans. Near the center but on the passenger side. The black plug may be in place. Search a little. Someone had this exact same question the last week or so and someone posted a pic from "beergarage". You'll be needing a new pulley/harmonic balancer.

I can tell you from personal experience that the timing belt for a 99 Forester 2.5 SOHC is DIFFERENT than the timing belt for a 2001 and 2002 Legacy 2.5 DOHC. IIR the Legacy ones were longer. Might have caused myself problems but when I really, really couldn't get the 99 belt on to the 2001 I finally called the auto parts. When the 2001 engine proved no good I got a 2000 2.5 SOHC abd the same belt worked on it. Perhaps it was a fluke. But it definately happened to me.

No idea of what the shop looks like. Do you? I've seen it happen from folks who took heads to a general machine shop. The two places I deal with want empty heads "just in case". And they use a grinder/resurfacer. Don't know the technical term. Just trying to help a fella out with where to look to resolve a problem. Sounds like he may have it straightened out now.

If they did any machining at all. Making sure the mating surface was "true" for instance. Didn't notice where you had lubed things on re-assembly. Just looking for a solution.

My place steam cleans them. Locks them into a gizmo that runs some kinda "cycle". Of course they are bare heads. I mark, disassemble, and lay things out. One old oil box for each head. When I re-assemble I use assembly lube. What ever method used to clean (if any) could have removed whatever lube was there. Could be as simple as that. If not dis-assembled and machined, well, are you nuts? Shavings could be anywhere/everywhere.

Can't believe these aren't available after market. Dealer only item.

I had to use a 2000 2.5 SOHC Lego block and put the intake and stuff off a 99 2.5 SOHC Forester on it. The only real issue I had is the timing belts are different by a couple of teeth. But I was swapping in the new block and heads. It was all SOHC.

This has happened to me more than once on Legacy's. Did you reconnect the stiff maybe 1' diameter hose that's hard to see on the bottom of the airbox (for lack of a better derscription). Heads toward the throttle body in general. I don't do many Foresters But it's easy to forget to reconnect that straight hose and it's hard to see that it's off. Symptoms are exactly as you describe.

I'd have to look at my toolbox to see the size. I'm gonna guess 12mm. But someone will know for sure. I haven't done one since early last fall. I use a swivel head 1/4 ratchet - Snap-on or Gearwrench. Some folks have an offset box end they prefer. Especially with the 1/4 ratchet you'll need a cheater bar most times. And something to hold the crank still. I use a tool I had made for the harmonic balancer. Watch you fingers when they break loose. Sometimes I've been known to hit myself in the face, etc. Dont forget to stuff a hunk of rag in there so you dont' loose the bolt. Especially on the re-install. I use it when removing as well.

That's how I do it. Through the window on the top. I do know some folks that do it underneath. I prefer the top. The proper tool really helps since they are tight and access is so limited.