davebugs

Hopefully someone will post the location of the ECU or youi'll be able to find it using search. I believe the TCU is basically where the passengers feet go. But it could be the ECU. I'd guess the ECU is under the drivers dash - but I've actually never needed to find out.

It looks like the trany is still in the car. Thought you were gonna pull them together?

Basics. Your existing engine is junk. Any used 2.5 would be a crap shoot and you'd need to do HG's, timing belt, idlers, reseal and stuff before installing it. And likely it would have rod knock and the bearings be on their way out. 2.2 is the only way to go in my opinion. Easy sway. Only real "issues" are Y pipe (possibly need it from the donor car), and usually some vacuum line(mostly dealing w/EVAP stuff) and minor rerouting of valve cover breather hoses. And you'll be missing the PS line bracket - but don't worry about it. If you'd update your profile to state what part of the country you're in someone may be able to suggest someone who has done this easy swap before.

try tdiclub.com. really for later VW diesels but the old stuff has it's forums. Generally an excellent board with a lot of activity. Personally I'd never get a car that runs on waste Vegetable oil and such. You can read there some of the horror stories. That said - the older the better on the diesel conversion stuff. Easier tolerated, simpler engines. Check the front strut towers on the VW for rust. I had a 81 diesel pickup. Was pretty shot by the time I got it (rust). I'm 6'2" 235 lbs so I didn't use it for short errands - got tired of crawling in and out. Good luck.

I had a thread on this repair last year with pics I believe. Hardest part was welding the end of the crank and dressing it up with a dremel for the new key. Mine needed an oil pump as well. And of course the center timing belt cover. I removed the engine to do the major maintenance anyway. I would think it would be real difficult to do with the engine in the car.

Yep. You're already here - so you're making progesss already!

In all the 95-99 Suby engines (and a few 2000-2001) I've never noticed the vin# on the engine. Where exactly is it?

Short trips you wouldn't notice a problem. Probably a fair price - assuming it's done correctly. Perhaps someone from USMB is close and can help you out or make recommendations. If you're gonna keep the car do the timing belt, perhaps idlers, etc. Search around here for common "major service" to have done while the engine is out. Don't forget to have the rad flushed. Whoever traded it in knew of the problem and probably tried "miracle cures" for the overheating before trading it in.

Do some searching here on the Cali spec. Seems to me some discussion about especially the shape of the teeth on the cali belt and especially the mating to the cam sprockets. Others may have opinions on the Dayco belts. But they've done well for me.

I use them exclusively on 95-99 Subaru's. I'm usually buying, fixing, and reselling the car. I've probably got close to 100 Dayco TB's on Subaru's with no known problems. I get the Ebay kits for the idlers, and source a metal WP locally, and check/replace the tensioner.

Glad it ended well. They should have handled it. And you shouldn't have needed to learn about it. Good thing you called.

I'd let them have another crack at it. Shoddy workmanship and lack of pride in a job well done don't set well with me. Probably why I do most of my own work. I had someone break into my Van here at home last week. Drivers side window. The shop "got it all" or they'd definately get to try until they got it done correctly. Not rocket science - this IS their trade. They even have the correct trim tools and a lot more experience in doing the job.

Our local glass shops clean up the breakage as part of the job. You mean other places (or other places in the country) this isn't done?

I believe I'd swapped coil (and thus plug wire styles) in the past on 2.5's/

Often you loose the high RPM's first. And look for something like a fuel delivery problem, plugged cat, etc. Now I've learned to check the alternator first. Never has been fuel delivery or a cat.

Yea - I'll stick to 2 pieces. I've passed on auto cars with the engine or TC locked up for this reason. Just wondered how dificult/practical it was. I believe I'll continue to pass them up.

Even an auto?

I've taken to buying Matco and Snap-on on Ebay. Often new. Beats the truck prices for sure. Still should be warranted if I ever have a problem. I did buy the Blue IR impact at Sears for 199 on sale a year or so ago. I'd say don't be in a rush if you can help it. Keep your eyes out for specials. CL is a crapshoot.

You'll end up replacing the crank seal and the oil pump Oring. might as well do the cam seals and a timing belt. Assumign the WP is in good shape you shouildn't have ot touch the front end for quite a while. I forget if 2.2's that old have the larger, thin Orings on the drivers side front and passenger side rear of head. But that would be about the only thing left on the front to leak.

GG, This is why I always have the radiator flushed and pressure tested when I get the heads done. Probably been a lot of miracle cures run through this before they did the HG's. I'd check the t-stat, perhaps a generic WP? and have the rad flushed/checked myself. I have limited water at the garage and support my local radiator shop (they are disapperaing you know) and let them handle it. That's a SOHC that typically leaks externally. If it looks like Suby HG's I'd look elsewhere first.

Nipper has the full answer. The short answer is how good to you wanna get at removing this engine and doing HG jobs on it? You may save a few bucks, maybe not. Why take the chance. Do some searching here. I use FelPro extensively on Subaru's and VW's. The only time I NEVER use Felpro is for Suby 2.5 HG's. And it's all a result of info posted here. And I've never had to redo one.

Minor changes through the years it seems. Basically the Y pipe (some early 90's had the car right at the Y. Then the 2 cats cats. Then a spring/flange kinda joint that takes a donut teasket. Prone to leaking, rusted flanges. Flexes when someone drops the Ypipe at the heads. Then a short section of pipe followed by the resignator, followed by a longer pipe (6' + or so is a guess) minor bend, bend for axle. Then the muffler. I'm talking 95-99 Legacies mostly.

First guess due to location and contacts is probably O2 sensor. And the ohter end fell down by the Y-pipe and you don't see it.

Thanks. Requirements vary a little from state to state. But it gives me hope about regulations/red tape if I work through the project list enough to get to doing another buggy or kit car. Kennedy has been making excellent products for years. I haven't seen disc brakes on the rear for an air cooled VW transaxle. But I haven't done anything new with mine in years and haven't hit the shows in probably 10 years to see what folks are doing lately.

What suspension front and back? Tube chassis or old VW bug donor? Licensed as what? Specialty car? My Dune Buggy was still able to the a Reconstructed VW. Now they won't allow a "hot rod" plate and I believe we have a "rebody" title but I believe they force a new vin# and a "specialty constructed" title. What safety and emissions did you need to do? Just curious. I have a friend who stops in and sees 3 2.2's on furniture dollies next to my buggy which needs rebuilt or engine swap with one of my air cooled engines (40psi in all 4 cylinders) with the pressure causing oil to leak mostly out of the generator stand. When I can get back to the bus and get it buttoned up if I decide to mess with the water cooled part and assuming Kennedy Engineering makes and adapter I may actually install the 2.2. Then the other question.... Why AC in a convertible?