davebugs

Cool. Where is beverly? I have a donor 73 bug here. Have a street legal Dune Buggy. ANd a bunch of old air cooled's. Davebugs comes from the little kids in the neighborhood trying to say "Dave with the bugs". It ends up "dave mumble mumble bugs" Bought the donor to do a kit car. Then got too busy doing Subaru's. Currently I have the engine out of my 71 bus since fall when I got busy with real work. What brand is the kit? New kit that you're building or was it already built and you're "reworking" it? How will you need to license it in your state? Much safety stuff to meet?

What kinda kit car?

Hopefully someone with more experience on this year range will chime in. Engine doesn't care which tranny. Like 90-91 have one color injectors more prone to problems. I believe 92-94 have more reliable injectors. But I think 91-94 are all linterchangable as long as you're swapping the whole engine.

As GG basically says. No matter which engine choice both 2.5's should have HG's, resealed, Idlers, WP, probably tensioner, and belts, spark plugs, etc while it's all out. A 2.2 same thing minus the HG's. No matter how "tight" you are having the engine out and not resealing it and hanging a new timing belt just isn't prudent from a $ or time perspective. I see the idlers as the same thing. Use an Ebay kit. Better than not replacing them and much more reasonable than dealer or most parts houses. So it's significant work anyway you look at it. Personally fix the 2.5 that you know or 2.2 it. I really, really shy away from JY 2.5's.

That's cheating. That wasn't one of the proposed options....

Toss up. But other than HG's and reseals these engines seem to run forever. The new one should have HG's done as you state. I'd me more likely to stick with the engine that I already knew. For all you know the younger one has rod knock or something. Most here (includig me) recomment Subaru only HG's. No need to get better at this job by doing it twice.

You lucked out. I belive a new dipstick is cheap. I have some of those around here somewhere but a JY one or the dealer isn't so bad. Mine that were stuck seemed to have the Oring at the top (I suggest a new Oring for the bottom of the tube). I guess it's just condensation? ANd of course never being checked. I put a little ATF or Petroleum jelly on the tight ones at the top where they seat.

Yea Gary - you're screwed with that dipstick/tube. Makes you wonder how often it was removed - doesn't it?

Gary, I probably have a couple of tubes here. Sort of a common problem. IIR the dealer had the tubes for like 40-50 bucks. I try and keep 2 ahead but I'd have to look. Haven't been spending time in the garage lately. Not bad to replace. Hardest one is the top support bolt. I get it from the bottom IIR but you may be able to get it from the top. I believe a 10mm down at the pan (from memory so I could be wrong). I'd purchase a new Oring for where the tube hits the pan. But yea - those aren't fun. Often they get broken no matter what you do. For science sake I've taken some, put them upside down in a pan, sprayed PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, ATF, etc and tried "working them". It's never ended well so I no longer experiment.

Yep. Odds are REAL GOOD the baffle plate/oil seperator plate is leaking and running down the back of the engine. And it's NOT the seal on the oil pan or the oil pan. You can't get to those back pan bolts without a lot of messing around, lifting the engine, etc. If youi're gonna go through all of that just pull the engine and fix the baffle plate. Do whatever other maintenance you want to, and re-install. Search around here for similar experiences.

Often it's an EVAP code and often caused by just not having the gas cap on correctly. Next time you get gas you get it on correctly. The CEL magically goes out shortly there after. Leaving you to scratch your head trying to determine what "cured" the car. For future reference the reader provided a P9999 #. Get that. Don't let them translate for you. Then you can search on that SPECIFIC code here. Yes - gas caps do go bad.

I've had this happen with a 2.2 swap and it seemed to be due to a bad crank sensor. But I don't think it would run if push started. So perhaps that isn't it. You have checked the wireing to all the key sensors? You are aware most auto parts chains will read the code for free? You are aware that an ODB2 reader to buy is only 50 bucks? And welcome to the board! Please update your location so that it displays. Perhaps you're close to a member. Often members here are willing to assist. But we're not so good at guessing where folks are located.

I believe I save PS pump bolts for this. My memory isn't so great but I remember on each car dis-assembly I get 3 to put in the tray to use rotors. They look like the PS pump bolts(the 3 from the front) and there are 3 of them. They even have a little section that isn't threaded at the end. Eventually they mushroom.

I do them to flip them as well - and not for others. Infact that's a line I still choose not to cross. Basically I figure 1k to either "redo" the 2.5 or swap in a 2.2. Seals, 2.5 HG's, idlers, belts, WP, fluids and filters, spark plugs, reseal baffle plate, ets. The oil pan, clutch, flywheel resurface, heads machined would be on top of that. Breaks down to a long day. Of for me actually 2 partial days. Because I drop the rediator (on a 2.5) to be flushed/tested on the way to drop off the heads by mid afternoon. Them mid morning the next day I make the same look and pick the parts up. I wouldn't do it for anyone(a customer) at virtually any price though.

Does pretty good in the laundry for those same things. I used to sell Gyro's and that grease is tough. Dawn seemed to do the best on jeans and such that had Gyro grease on them. Like Tom I often use ATF, WD40, PB Blaster, etc. especially for thick stuff on my hands, etc. Then ZEP's Cherry Bomb. But for a lot of stuff Dawn can't be beat.

Poke around here. Some folks had links to download the FSM. I used to but they may have gotten away in a recent laptop incident. That is definately better and potentially free.

Looks pretty unique!

Cam seizure is what I was referring to in post #2. Other than that is sems to usually be an idler or the WP as has been pointed out. Every now and then a tensioner - especially the new style it seems. I did sell one member here a plastic cam sprocket and he thought that was his only problem. I doubted it was and tried to explain why. Wish I could remember who it was and how they made out.

Check for spark? You're still running the same ignitor.

I believe there is a gasket. Been a year since I used it.

My Motive cap (Subaru specific) has been working fine. Although I've only used it 3-4 times. Now the kinda "universal" ones for the GM rectangular ones that the OEM cover just clips on. Well, what a mess. Chains and all. I've tried to use it twice and gave up both times. But the screw on for Subaru and VW have been great.

Pic please

Worth a try - but not high odds. It is interference. And usually something causes enough resistance for the cam sprocket to break so it's more than replacing the cam sprocket to begin with before worrying about the damage caused AFTER is decintegrated. Hopefully others will chime in.

Off the top of my head the 98 will want the ER plumbing. The hard metal line on the back of the engine. But my memory isn't the greatest.

If you're talking about the skinny Oring on the back of the passenger side head on a 2.2 a comment or two. The machine fit is CLOSE. They can be a bit of a pain to "walk back in". I'm usually doing it with the engine on a stand. I use assembly lube and after I get it started I usually use the 2 bots to "walk it in". Getting it "walked out" you just need to take your time.