davebugs

Don't know anything about it. Listed as a 87 Subaru Brat Truck. Public auction. PM for link. Auction is 11am tuesday, preview (limited no driving - just start it up if possible) starts at 9:30.

Usually the cats seem pretty interchangable. Often the O2 sensors are not it seems. But I have no chart or anything to point to.

Hoe was mandatory. Hoe and front loader. 4x4, locking diff, etc. 450 hours now. Basically made crates for the car hauler so it didn't fall into the middle. Friends have pointed out more of my redneck qualities with my Kubota on the modified trailer. Hey, whatever it takes. Plan is to keep it until I'm done with this foreclosed house, another day in the mountains with it, and landscape around the pole building (finally) then sell it. Hopefully in the fall, or keep until spring when it may be more valuable. We'll see. I'm outta room, but nice to have around. I just hope to get all my work done with it then have no need for it. That's why I bought used. They are kinda hard to find decent used ones. Still wasn't cheap 6 years old w/424 hours on it. But the offer stands for the junk block. I think I've thrown out all my TC's.

No idea. But the world is littered with 2.5 blocks w/bad bearings. Why play with this particular one? I mean we all like a challange, but..... If you're up for a drive I can probably get you a long block with bad bearings (really bad but still ran a little) that I have stolen throttle body, sensors, etc from. A 97 w/180k. BTW I bought a gently used Kubota BX23. Everyone needs a little hoe! Small but effective if I take my time. Sure beats the method I was using prior to getting the machine. Haven't done any car "work" with it yet.

In regards to your question to a posting of mine in this thread you've probably turned up the info in a search by now. The main reason a 95 2.2 is "preferred" is because you can use the Y-pipe off your 2.5, and it's also non-interference. 96-99 are SINGLE PORT exhaust so if you swap in one of them you need it's matching Y-pipe. JY's often consider Impreza and Legacy engines to be different. Impreza's are cheaper. Either will work when swapping in for a 2.5. Common issuea are always vacuum lines (and sometimes EVAP lines) and breather hoses.

I'd get a 2.2. Or PM me about a 2.2 (I have 3 here) that I've heard run. Or I have a running 2.5 in a 97 OBW that the HGs must have been done in but has some rod knock. Don't know which Hazleton you're in - there are several in PA I believe. If you're out by Philly a trip doesn't make sense. But I'd still get a 2.2. If you dont' get a 95 2.2 and get a 96-99 get the Y pipe as well. If you get a 2.5 might as well do the HG's and reseal while it's out and pray the bearings are still good. Frankly I wouldn't buy a 2.5 with a no return policy. Just not worth it! Most of the variance is rubber hose vacuum line plumbing.

I believe the tricky part is the 1.25 pitch. I wanna say 14 x 1.25 from memory (a bad memory). Take one of the nuts you took off to Lowes. Figure out how long of bolts you'll need. Usually you need 2 nuts(and 4 washers) and 2 bolts to put an engine on the stand. The 2 lower studs remain in the engine unless you purposely remove them. BTW engine/trans nuts, motor mount nuts, and exhaust stud nuts are all the same. Come with some special coating from Subaru and are a bit pricey. I ALWAYS put anti-seize on the new bolts that will thread into the engine. Don't need to be buggering up those threads. I actually also apply some to the stud threads.

There is and oil pump Oring. Usually Blue (not jsut regular rubber). There is no oil pump gasket it's just ultra-grey. Unless you look it up in lets say a Fel-Pro book who's primary purpose is to sell gaskets. Others should chime in to confirm/deny. I don't work much on 2.5 SOHC's.

Leave it together. No new head gaskets or bolts on the 2.2. HG issues VERY rare. Reseal it and drop it in.

The 2.2 swap is very easy. I didn't believe it the first time I did one. Usually the only engine swap issue that needs some playing with are the charcoal canister lines and sometimes vacuum lines - but it can all be figured out. Every swap seems just a little bit different. And no bracket for the PS lines - but who cares. If you've already got loose that lower drivers side nut in the bellhousing and had the enigne seperated (when looking for a flexplate issue) the hard part is already done. You will need a single port Y-pipe though. Good luck.

Yea - rod knock is very common to the cars I see. Not piston slap - rod knock. But as GG said I'm typically buying broken cars (HG's typically). So I rarely fix the HG's unless I can talk to the PO and confirm it doesn't have many overheating cycles on it. If someone has played with it enough that it has a new WP, rad cap, etc. I figure it's been overheated too many times and just 2.2 it. I'd just reseal a 2.2 and drop it in. If you find someone that will do the bearing correctly and cheapely I've got 6-8 complete 2.5's here that need HG's and bearings. I'm not currently doing much car stuff but if I could get 2.5's done well and reasonably I would seriousely consider that option.

I've only been doing Suby's about 3 years and the pretty blue bottles I've always received from the dealer did have "Holts" molded into the bottle. Must depend on area of the country or dealer stock.

I've got a 2001 Golf TDI. 190k. Been super reliable. Other than regular maintenance I can count on one hand the repairs, and half of them were covered on recall (like the MAF). And one was the third brake light at 150k. 40 mpg (it's an auto) and I truely expect 300-400k. But I've also got an assortment of old air-cooled's. Now the 1.8 turbo's I avoid. Any tranny trouble is typically big $. But they sure ride and handle better than the jap stuff - even the Acura and Lexus's that I've driven. VW's are excellent traveling cars in my opinion. They do get kinda crazy with multiple engines and especially tranny's for the same model year in the late model cars though. Someday for kicks look up exactly what their collection of name plates is - you'll probably be surprised.

Personally Subaru for HG, crank, cam seals. Subaru or Felpro (usually priced about the same for many gaskets) for intake, exhaust, valve cover. Usually just depends if I'm at the parts store or dealer. Generally the deeper into the engine the more likely Subaru parts. I often do plugs even if not needed while the engine is out. Idlers and WP are up to you. But if you're doing crank/cam seals you'll certainly be in there. I'd use it as a chance to put fresh coolant in as well.

You can buy those kits yourself at some of the chain stores. I bought a nice complete kit (oil, rediator, AC), light 12v w/clips, yellow glasses, etc for 100.00. Seems to me a light and enough trace to do a one time diagnosis was like 20-25.00. I use it for SOHC 2.5 HG diagnosis mostly.

As pointed out here 2.2 HG's are rare. The only 2.2's I've ever purchased with HG issues have burn't white - like a traditional HG issue but they often need warmed up first. Not the "classic" 2.5 issues like you seem to be having.

The rear main seal is DIFFERENT than the baffle/oil seperator plate. Most folks here (including me) don't touch the rear main. Resist the temptation to replace it just because the engine is out. The only ones I've ever needed to replace were already replaced one time. My local dealer doesn't even stock them - what's that tell ya? A tube of Ultra Grey and some carb/brake cleaner and a gasket scraper are all you need for the baffle plate.

cam and crank are the same as well. Spark plugs heat range is slightly different.

The pan is a PITA. Can't get at the back bolts without lifting the engine a little. Seriousely I'd probably just wait until the engine is pulled. It's stuck on there pretty good with sealer (not a gasket). I know it's not my car and I don't know how bad it's leaking. Perhaps others here will chime in. How much oil are you adding - if any?

2 thoughts. Just have a new sleeve welded in. Shouldn't be much. Like I said I get them done for 40.00 - but I get a lot of them done. Second - are you SURE it's the oil pan seal (there actually isn't a gasket). Have you read here about hte oil seperator/baffle plate. If not do some searching. You may be throwing your money away with that repair as well.

Anxious to hear the solution. I usually pass on automatic cars that are locked up for this very reason.

I'd say no. I've had outstanding results with Lucas Power Steering additive. Available at Wal-Mart and the auto store chains. I'd be afraid of the brake fluid myself.

You can check vwvortex and see what you can find out. Full of a bunch of kids talking of stereo's, rims, mufflers and other things that have nothing to do with running/maintaining a car but some very worthwhile content if you dig. It can be hard to find though.

If it's the cat I believe it's covered by a mandatory federal law until like 100k. Hoepfully someone here will know. Other than that it's probably the flex joint immediately before the second cat. I have them cut out and new pipe (like 4") welded in for 40 bucks. But I have a lot of them done so you may need to pay more. I see NO ADVANTAGE to keeping the doughnut/spring loaded bolts setup. I'm sure there is a reason - but not good enough to spend hundreds more on the same repair. Save the money for the upcoming head gasket repair.

I don't fix them. Sometimes I will pay a tranny shop to look things over and fix reverse. I believe a few special tools are needed that a tranny shop has. More tranny specific than VW specific I think. I think my average repair bill after I drop the tranny off is 350 or so. A couple of hours to tear it apart, 60 bucks in Reverse gear and assorted parts, reassemble. But I really don't do many. The 5 speeds make the auto's look cheap though. They are usually around 1,500 used. But I have had pretty good success getting htem fixed - but not cheaply. Good luck. I'll be surprised if you actually end up fixing the tranny. Tearing it down may be fun.