davebugs

Those tanny's are the issue. Hard to get past 200-250k with one. The 2.0 engines are pretty bullet proof. Reverse to that tranny is what HG's are to a Suby 2.5 DOHC. As an idea. That tranny used costs me 700. I can get that 2.0 engine delivered (minus distributor) for under 100.00 with a 6 month warranty. Under 150.00 with a distributor.

Usually it's reverse on those tranny's. Around here they go for about 700 used. When reverse fails it's only like 60.00 in parts but a whole lotta labor since VW German overengineer everything. I have a tranny shop do it. Only ones I've had get stuck in forward gears was the linkage being a problem. I happen to have a car with that tranny setting here that I haven't gotten to. A 97 Golf GTI 2.0 5 speed. It's a running/driving car that needs some work. I'm more likely to part it but shipping would be killer. Good luck with the internals of a VW trans. If you do go used try and verify reverse first. They all make a bit of a "whine" in reverse - it's a VW thing.

I had a 97 GT with the same issues. Ended up being the LF axle. After I started looking and poking around it did have a little "extra" play. So while you're under there you may want to yank on the axles as well to check for play.

I always pull the engine is similar situations - clutch jobs and such. My reasoning is that I'm usually doing HG's and other work and it's simply easier to work on the engine out of the car. All the major maintenance stuff. If you can't find a flex plate local drop me a note. I know I have some 2.2's but I'd have to see if I have a 2.5 already hanging on the wall.

I've got atleast one set (another set is still on the car). Nothing special. 2 have tires to go fetch another Outback with 2 bad tires that I no longer have time to go get. I'll be in and out all week. PM me an email.

97 should have valve shims to adjust the valves. But if it got hot before the HG's were done it could easily be rod bearings. Perhaps others here will have more positive suggestions than rob knock/rod bearings. I usually listen to the area behind cyl#3 - closest the firewall on the pass side while standing at the front of the car. I pay particular attention to the noise when coming down from reving the engine. Good luck. Please give WNC a little more meaning - like a city/state. Someone here may be able to listen to it for you as a second opinion.

Used many of their kits without issues. I source my own WP and belts. I know many sets I've installed have gone 100k. I use their idlers and sometimes new style tensioners. Haven't been doing many Suby's lately thought. Bearings used to be "GMB" which are very acceptable. my experience has been very good.

I get 2.5 kits from them frequently. I get Dayco belts locally for about hte same price. I think they are the best value in kits.

I believe I save PS pump bolts for this - to remove stubborn disc's. Whatever I use are from a Subaru and aren't threaded the whole way to the end so they don't even nick up the hub. But after several uses the end kinda mushrooms.

Here's what I do. I have a local exhaust place that bends pipe. They will put a new section welded in there for 40.00. Probably less than I'd have in 2 of those flange clamps and the tapered donut gasket and fancy spring setup. And was less time consuming and better in my opinion. As GG has pointed out I get a good price because they do a lot of these for me. And you can't take it apart there without cutting it in the future - but usually I've just done a complete reseal and engine swap or HG job so who cares for quite a while. Fixing that is a real pain. And I was never happy with my fix. So it may be worth a few calls.

SEARCH for links here and you can probably download the Factory Service Manual for free. And way better than Chiltons or Haynes. Also my local dealer will give me the latest Head Bolt torque instructions when I ask nicely. Again better info than any aftermarket manual.

Ultra Grey is a Permatex product - easy to come by. Never had an issue with it. I use it everywhere on a Suby engine. Baffle place, those cam cap corners, oil pump, oil pan. Do some searching here. It's commonly used.

I use PVC as a seal installer. The same piece works for the crank seal. A little Ultra Grey in those corners you were asking about.

2 best guesses. Slave cylinder or clutch fork - more than you'd think crack. You may want to start by bleeding the slave.

Followed by cars that whoever did the timing belt job didin't tighten the crank bolt tight enough. I just passed on another one of those this past weekend. Have too many projects now. Or generic plug wires on a 2.5. They are pretty much bullet proof other than the HG's and stupidity.

Skip isn't online much anymore. Drop me a PM if you'd like more info.

The slave - is that where you're asking? Look at where the engine and trans meet. Basically under the air box and dogbone. You can follow the line to the master cylinder on the firewall to it as well. They can be a bugger to bleed.

Good luck as a fellow VW fan. I try not to get too exotic with any car. I stick mostly to TDI's but just bought a 2002 VR6 GTI that needs engine work - fella didn't have the tensioners checked. Needs an engine at 90k. Bet that 4 motion will fly. A note. I usually do the 95-99's. Only 2.5 SOHC I have done was a nightmare. Several engines to get a good one. The GF's 2006 Impreza seems to be doing well but she doesn't do the miles she used to (not having a job will do that). Pushing 80k? with no issues yet. Too bad about the luck you had. But I'd try a Suabru again if the opportunity arrises. In the meantime have fun with the VW.

GG, PM me for info or (now I forget - Borla) replacements local to me. The Audi's get pretty expensive to fix pretty quickly. That's why I stay with the VW's. I hope to be around next week and may know some folks who know some Audi folks..... But I'd need to know specifically what was needed.

If you strike out and wanna drive I believe I have 4 good Green doors still on a car. I usually tear them down a bit. Sell mirrors, window switches, etc.

If it has rod knock - 2.2 swap. Otherwise COMPLETE head gasket job and major maintenance. That's my deciding factor.

EGR or not? (auto or stick). I'm thinking no on the '90 but I don't know. I usually stick to 95-99's. Someone else here should know or point you to a chart or previous thread thought.

There was actually a thread about this in the last year. Don't think it ever came to a real conclusion. Which probably means that aftermarket is o.k. Often I have agood used one - but am starting run a bit low. I use OEM myself when I need a new one. Not enough of a price difference to gamble for me.

Which place did you buy it from. I'm about ready to start a few LED experiments and am electrically challenged. I did however invest in CREE some time ago and it's been a VERY good ride. I'd expect it to slow down soon for a bit though. I have a few LED's at the house, and have seen them used in cars. Much better light. City's and College's switching to LED's all over the globe.

I love Lucas PS if it's a problem with the rack. I've tried it several times for pump troubles on Suby's with no luck. YMMV