davebugs

I'm sure any major parts store will have a similar product. I've personally used this in probably 50 Suby's by now with no known issues. That's the only reason I said something. If you are the one that has been driving the car and haven't dumped miracle sures in it and didn't let too much carbon/ick build up you'll be o.k.

I always send the radiator out to be flushed and pressure tested. Usually folks have tried miracle cures before I buy the car to fix it. I've gone to the Advance Auto parts universal coolant. Looks like Mtn. Dew kinda yellow green. Don't know if you have that chain of parts stores up there. The Subaru dark green stuff is very pricey.

They usually leak at t ametal gasket smack dab in the middle of the pump for me. Others here have had the Oring at the bottom of the reservoir leak. Last I checked the rebuild kit was like 20 bucks - same as a used pump. I install used.

That's simply dry gas. Many uses. Including cleaning new wiper blades. Getting harder to but bottles with screw on threads though. I never use it for the purpose it was bottled for. PB Blaster works well. Infact PB and perhaps a little scotchbrite is how I remove JY paint stick.

2 comments. I've done my fair share of these and don't recall a sensor in any Outback radiator. Second - it seems 96 and some 97's take a different (more pricey) radiator. May I sugest that you look at the bottom plastic pegs and see it they are the whole way out at the ends under the plastic tank on both ends or lets say 3-4 inches toward the center from where the tank meets the aluminum to make sure you get the correct rad. I just got the wrong one from the radiator barn but they seem like they are gonna be good about taking it back. Mine was for a 97. Luckily I scrounged around and had a servicable used one around here. The ones with the pegs closer to the middle are more rare and pricey.

http://www.theimportexperts.com/ They used to be on Ebay all the time. They have a real local parts place and sometimes that is how they answer the phone. Infact I can't understand Roberto so I ask for one of the other guys. I just look for old emails since I'm always doing something non-standard. Getting an extra cogged pulley for stock, getting a new style tensioner and an idler for the old style at the same time, etc. I haven't bought anything from them since September probably. Garage has been tied up and I've been out of town working. But I just supplied my last idler set for a HG job last week so I'm all out. They handle the PCI kits w/GMB bearings in the idlers. Others gotta be similar. I've rarely had a problem and when I did these folks handled it well. I tend to keep doing business with the same folks until they loose it due to product, service, or significant price difference.

After being recommended here I use "theimportexperts" idler kits. Get all 3 belts (timing, 2 accessory) locally (Dayco), and get all gaskets and seals from the dealer. I do sometimes use FelPro for intake, exhaust, and VC. That combo works for me. I've probably done 20+ 2.5s with this combo and more 2.2's (minus the HG's).

I believe they used to also have 1stvwparts. I never had luck buying VW or Subaru parts from them. They were the only online Subaru OEM vendor that I had tried. If you do enough Suby work your dealer parts dept will treat you decent. And with no shipping and getting the parts quicker.

Lost my reply. But please post what the problem ends up being. I have the same problem and have never had troubles with the wireing before. Originally I could clear the CEL. Now it just blinks one time when I clear it and stays on. When I get the car dug out I'll be poking around, but I'm electrically challanged so any pointers would be appreciated.

Yea. The O rings are easy. The large headed bracket bolt can be tough.

Well, first of all you're actually working with a 95 knock sensor. And IIR the 95 2.2 and the 98 2.5 are different. I'm about to go through the same process with a 97 2.5 that I just had the HG's done in since my garage is tied up. I think I only have 3-4 knock sensors in the drawer (probably more on parts engines) and I believe they are all for the later model 2.5's and are different than the 95 2.2. Infact I think the connector is different. Could be wrong. If you find a weird problem please post it. When I dig out from the snow I'll be playing with the same issue myself.

I haven't tried the LED's. But I find the 3 HVAC bulbs for under 20 bucks at the dealer is easier than using the cheaper radio shack ones and trying to peel the rubbers off the old bulbs. But i'm not exactly an electronics wiz.

Search. Excellent link/procedure here somewhere on the HVAC bulbs (3 of them). I've never needed to look for the other procedure.

I have one of these already pulled to put on Ebay. Tested while still in the car at all speeds. I could probably do 25.00 shipped w/paypal. With all the snow today I may take pics and list some items. Like virtually brand new OEM Subaru headlights from the same car. Had just been repaired from an accident and the tranny went. Actualy the college kid drove it "while it made a noise" until the rear driveshaft came out of the tranny and beat up the tranny, exhaust, and floor. Not worth fixing. I've already started to part it. So if you need anything speak up. Otherwise it's all Ebay bound.

Sorry. Thought I may have what you needed laying around.

I forget. Are the flywheel bolts the same as flexplate bolts? Fine threaded buggers? If so I have them settin' in a bin. I do (fix and junk) way more auto's than standards. Curious - why do you need them? Damaged or missing? Have a pic?

VW air-cooled and Subaru engines are virtually the only horizontally opposed engines for mainstream cars. That's why if the exhaust is bad you can't tell which car it is (but it's getting easier as the old VW"s die off and are restored so they have no exhaust noise) I believe the similarities ends there. Porche and VW have worked together for many, many years. Japanese and Germans don't cross polinate well on production items like this in my experience.

We fixed one of these last year. Started a thread and has a few pics. Even screwed up the oil pump. Welded the crank, dremel to clean up the keyway. Had a long time Subaru tech help - and I'm not used to having help. Forgot to take pics of evactly what you need to see. Things move more quiclykly than I'm used to when two folks are working on the car. I pulled the engine to make it easier to work on. I did the usual stuff while it was out - the major maintenance stuff. Make sure you get the new crank bolt TIGHT when it's re-assembled.

I'll second that suggestion.

Post in the wanted section. I still think I have atleast one but I forget which side. And I won't be home until tomorrow. They are hard to come across.

I use OEM only Head Gaskets, crank and cam seals. Intake if needed OEM or Felpro. Same with exhaust and valve cover sets. I buy probably the same PCI idler kits from theimportexperts. I use Dayco Timing and accessory belts. Someone asked this exact question last night I swear. NGK V-groove cheap plugs (green writing). I have the rad flushed and pressure tested. Heads checked, surfaced if needed, and steam cleaned(I believe is what they do in a cool gizmo often overnight). Could do Oil pump Oring and don't forget ot check the oil pump screws. Seriousely search here. Some excellent procedures and parts lists/comments. Usually intake gaskets and be re-used, exhausts are 50/50. A tube of Ultra Grey for corners on heads, oil pump, baffle plate. edit: Something I usually don't mention. Frequently I clean the throttle body and intake while I have the opportunity. Make SURE you ge tthe crank bolt tight. Break loose the cam bolts BEFORE removing the timing belt. Again all covered well here. Good luck.

FYI for a few bucks (maybe 20) you can buy a cheap kit at the parts store with additive to put into the oil and a blacklight and yellow glasses. I do enough Suby's that I purchased a complete kit (oil, water, AC, etc). It's worth the few bucks to potentially save you pulling the engine. But it it has never been out I'd make a serious bit it's the baffle plate. Look at the Y pipe where it comes together for just enough oil to be annoying. It'll take a while for it to show up on the Y pipe since the baffle plate doesn't leak bad. But this way you may be the lucky one who doesn't need to pull the engine. As pointed out. It's a bigger job to do the baffle plate - but I'd bet that's where you're heading. And if you have it out just do the HG's and be done for the next 100k. If it is the baffle plate other than being annoying it really doesn't hurt anything.

Pull the engine and fix the baffle plate/oil seperator plate. Search around here - common issue. Suggest OEM wires. NGK cheap V-groove (Green printing) spark plugs. OEM cam/crank seals. I like the OEM WP gasket as well. Get idler set online. It'll come with an idler for the old style tensioner that you have. Do some searching. If nothing else for head gasket repair to get the info on all this other stuff. Come to think of it if you plan on keeping it jsut do the HG's with OEM while the engine is out.

I use FelPro all the time. And even on Suby's for intake, exhaust, VC. Just not FelPro HG's for a Suby. And like Mike have never had an issue. I've probably done 2 or 3 times as many as Mike. And my dealer will give you the latest torque instructions. Hard to tell how many I've done since often there is rod knock so I do 2.2 swaps rather than HG's. Probably under 50 but getting close. I'd suggest buying OEM and only doing it one time. Unless you wanna get good at it by possibly doing it twice. I don't care how broke you are. Max 100.00 while the engine is out versus an unplanned failure and possibly doing it again seems like a no brainer. YMMV I just hate to see folks create work for themselves. Infact I may have been one of the folks that warned Mike come to think of it. Don't forget to check the head for straightness if you're not sending them out. And prep the surface well.

Rack failure rare. Pump failure much more often. Pump leaking - somewhat common - but doesn't effect performance.