davebugs

I've seen lots of plastic ones. Only one with a hair line crack. And I don't remember but it may have been a JY engine delivered that way. I reseal the plastic ones. Haven't had an issue yet. And I'm not one for short cutting or skimping. The labor for an independent shop is probably fair.

Ugly, This WAS asked very recently. A newer SOHC 2.5 into a late 90's Legacy IIR. Grossgary and I both responded in that thread IIR. It may have been about a Forester as donor or to be fixed. But - it'd be ugly. Common recepient of a swap - do some searching here about 2.2 swap. 2.5's will work but if you're gonna buy a used engine 2.2 is the way to go. Wireing is different for one thing. You could probably make it work. But it would be an unpleasant experience just to say you did it. YMMV

Those allens don't leak. And they are usually TIGHT! But I really don't know what purpose they serve. Nipper has the correct questions. ALong with if the pump was ever off did they check the phillips screws to make sure they were tight and use an OEM crank seal.

You need to dig a little. Are the tabs just broken? Aftermarket grille, looking like aftermarket/replacement bumper cover probably. Hard to tell the extent of your issues. I'd be happy to sell you parts that I might have but you're almost gonna have to get your car side by side with an unmolested car to figure out what all needs fixed. Until then you're possibly just wasting money.

I've got a set from a 95 Legacy L setting in the backseat (sold bumper cover). A like new set still in a 97 OBW (had recently hit a deer and new OEM lights and Grille). I'll want big bucks for them. And some strays around. Mostly 95-97 L and OB stuff. I don't believe I have any left that fit the 99's - even to compare to. Drop me a PM if you have trouble sourcing them locally with what you're looking for and an offer.

Yep. They definately changed around '98? The Grille may have changed. But the turn signal lense is definately different.

I emailed radiator barn to se about delivery last night. GG - yes - I have a half dozen here but am thinking of new. I don't install used ones (even known good) until I have them flushed and pressure checked and that costs 20 bucks and takes a day or two. I believe this car I'm selling to a friend for his college kid, who lives with his mother 60 miles away. The rad would be the only thing not new (belts, hoses, HG's, Idlers, WP, all 3 filtrers, you get the idea) so I'd like to go new for the few more bucks. Thanks for the feedback folks. Yea - list at Advance was like 200. I'll check my local independent and rediator shop this morning.

As I've posted before get a Valeo kit off Ebay and pay a few more bucks for all USA and Japanese parts rather tan the cheapest. I've always been afraid to try the cheapest (pretty much of anything) and save roughly half on the "better" Valeo kit, and that's good enough for me.

Quality, price, quick shipping. Gotta make some calls tomorrow. Need one by next week and prefer not to go used since everything else I'm doing will be new. Any recommendations other than local parts stores and/or Ebay. Ebay for this may be a bit scary and I wouldn't want to pay to have a rad shipped quickly. But if you'd like to share an experience I'm all ears.

Yea. I'd bet the axles weren't re-installed quite correctly. Perhaps they killed the battery, or connections aren't tight when they reconnected it.

Don't know what the 99 is out of. But if it's a DOHC going into a SOHC engine bay I don't think it will work. First check is whether they both have 2 or 3 plugs at the bellhousing where the engine meets the trans.

Gotta have an EGR (95 automatic). Do some searching around here. Common swap. Welcome to the board. Lost of useful info and folks around here.

I still have a 97 OBW complete if that stuff will work drop me a PM and let me know what you'd like and are willing to pay. Running/driving car with no Airbag light on so the clock spring is o.k. - or atleast it was when I parked it probably mid summer.

A true pan leak would be rare as already pointed out. Usually it's the Crank or oil pump if wet in the front, baffle plate if wet on teh back. Only pan I've ever had that leaked was rusted through, the seal was fine. Oh - they can be a bit of a pain to pry off - to get started that is. And space is a problem as GG said. You'll end up pulling the engine to do it. Might as well do any other maintenance. But start with seals as already stated. Odds are pretty good the pan (and seal to the engine) are o.k.

Excellent burping video link around here somewhere. Be patient with it. The fluids are a seperate problem. Did you mess with tranny or diff at all? Someone here recently put the new ATF in the wrong hole.

I bought a Gator Grip stubby ratchet and socket set years ago. I've used it twice(the socket) in a punch. Definately has paid for itself. I've even found myself using it when not necessary on things like tight wingnuts on the lawn mower. Cheesy but works. Had to be a tight fit into the hole to get to that bolt though.

What GG said. I prefer letting it set overnight. When I pull an engine I clean and seal the baffle plate before even putting it on the engine stand. I do the oil pump ASAP before even cleaning up the timing belt covers, installing new spark plugs, etc to give it the most time possible. I try for a minimum of 4 hours. Even if I gotta kill time doing unrelated stuff or eating. Only one time have I waited only an hour or so and that car I started a thread about here with pics. It had a loose harmonic balancer that a Suby tech and I fixed - the keyway, key oil pump, balancer and covers. Not used to having help. We had it out, fixed, timing belt, baffle plate, etc. and back in and running in the same afternoon with no leaks. About 3 hours overall IIR and would have been quicker except I was out of Exhaust gaskets and had to make a trip. I only use Ultra Grey on Subaru's.

I get them off Ebay - atleast that's where I find to buy them. I haven't needed any in a year or so. I typically buy Rhino-Pak kits locally and they typically have Valeo clutch disc, etc. for 250. Cheaper than Advance and Auto Zone locally. I can get the cheapest Valeo kit for lets say 150, or for 200 get a Valeo kit with all USA and Japan parts - and that's the kit I get. Shipping included. These prices are roughly what I remember, and probably have changed. But Valeo is a well known OEM and aftermarket supplier, I don't worry about high performance If I have the time to wait I order the clutch kit at the same time I order the timing belt/idlers from the importexperts. I also drop the flywheel to be checked and cut.

Best way - disconnect rear drive shaft at the rear. Next best - fuse in FWD place by pass side strut tower/firewall. This is definatley second choice - althought I've had pretty good luck using it. If I do I try and start the car every so often (but you said this one wouldn't run). Third - hire someone with a flatbed. More expensive but may be cheap in the long run.

Very popular choice in the VW/Audi crowd who generally consider themselves "driving enthusiests". I've used them myself on VW's. Usually paired with Mintex pads (red box). Definately a major manufacturer - not a fly by night. Have worked well for me on early 2000's VW's. On Suby's I use a variety of rotors and Wagner Thermo-Queit pads Anymore I usually just end up getting Advance Auto's best rotors. I used to get the "Quality" brand chinese but had some issues with some of my own vehicles with them. I always got the best pads (without getting exotic). And since Bendix and Raybestos seem to be getting more difficult to get and pricey I typically get the ones from Advance. It's really a personal choice. Almost like the oil wars. By the time a car is worn out you finally figure out what parts worked best. OT - but for instance. On my 2001 VW Golf Diesel. OEM fronts lasted 100k, rears 60k (typical for VW). But I'll concentrate on the fronts. OEM 100k. Brembo 60k Chinese (with old pads for first time in my life - pads were only half worn, I scufed them, made sure they were flat, etc) 11k Went back to OEM. Ironically The pricing on these parts was consistent with the miles of service. OEM 100k 100.00 Brembo 60k 60.00 Chinese 11k 12.50 Just boils down to how many times you want to do the job. And other than the one time I pointed to here I always replace rotors and pads at the same time so when rotors wear out you gotta add the cost of the pads. Good luck.

Don't know but it'll probably work. Ultra Grey is a Permatex Product I believe. It seems to set up a bit more stoudt than a lot of silicones. No matter what you use just don't get carried away with it.

Search here for endwrench articles. I gotta go for the family Cmas dinner soon. There are actually 2 of those skinny Orings. The other one is more difficult for me. It's on the back side of the Pass side head at the back of the cam. The plate that it goes over is a very close machine fit. They can be a bugger to work back it - sometimes I walk it in using the 2 bolts. The Oring kit comes with 2 in the pack. For a 2.2 here is my parts list. Actually I just keep it in an old WP box - one set for 2.2 and one set for 2.5 DOHC's. It contains empty packages from the parts I used last time for the 2.2: Crank seal - OEM Cam seals OEM earlier 2.2's Oring set - OEM Oil pump Oring - OEM WP Gasket - OEM you'll need ultra grey for the oil pump, and baffle plate if you do it. NGK plugs Timing Belt (usually Dayco) Both accessory belts(Dayco). Combine this with the internet kit for all the idlers and perhaps the timing belt. I broke down and got a Lisle seal puller for maybe 20 bucks. Poke around it's been discussed here. I used to use pick's, screwdrivers, etc. As usual the correct tool is the way to go if you can. I'd hate to learn about one of those sleeve kits after knicking a cam - but I've done many without the tool. The baffle plate is the thing that leaks that couses oil to leak onto the Ypipe that most folks unfirmiliar with Suby's think is the rear main seal. It's very easy to fix - after you pull the engine or trans. Some folks install a new thermostat while they are at it. Folks recommend OEM for them as well. I haven't really had issues with aftermarket ones but they are MUCH smaller. And I've bought cars w/overheating issues that the aftermarket ones have been in backwards. I don't even know if an OEM would fit backwards. Gotta run. But seriousely there are some excellent links here to follow. I had some saved but this laptop died a few weeks ago and I hadn't saved bookmarks lately.

IIR crank and cam seals from the Dealer are maybe 10 bucks each (really I think about 8 bucks). And this is a case where I always go OEM. I also like the OEM WP gasket, I just do it all - like Gary says. Infact since you have a 95 occasionally I'll use the cheap belt that comes with the internet kits. Often the kit is cheaper with the belt than buying the idlers seperate. I have a collection of the MitsubOshi belts since I'll only install them on the 95 2.2's just in case. A new Dayco is like 35.00 IIR. I just do it all, oil pump Oring, the 2 Big thin Orings, WP, the whole deal. It's not much more time at all and then it's all done. Only thing to stuill worry about is the baffle plate leak. Valve Covers are easy enough if they leak. I usually do new NGK plugs and evaluate the wires while I'm at it. If you pull the rad I just do new coolant. If you're planning on having the car a while I'd just do it all. And if you're thinking of selling it in the future most folks can't seem to quantify what major maintenance like this will cost so it's an easier sell if it's been done.

To start with to break them loose do it while the Timing belt is still on!!! Then you only have to worry about tightening. - And you may be using the old belt for that. There are several methods. If noone replies just do some searching.

MMO, let it warm up. Take for a "spirited" drive. I wait until cold and start and listen closely for rod knock. Then I typically run until warm and change oil and filter again. Usually it's just from setting. BTW this even happens after doing HG's on 2.5's sometimes. Odds are pretty darn good that you're o.k.