davebugs

I still have some if you end up needing one. Actually the whole throttle body.

I looked years ago - with no success. The "normal" panel makers must think there aren't enough Suby's to make it worth their while. Kinda funny while they all beat each up on price for Honda, Toyota, Pickup truck, etc patch panels. If just one would make the same patch panels for Subaru you'd think it would be profitable for them, and terrific for us.

Coolant overflow bottle for yuck - or too fresh. Take it for an hour "spirited" drive. These usually heat up in 30-45 minutes when driven - especially at highway speeds. Listed for rod knock after it's been warmed up(when it's still cold you could be hearding piston slap). Ask about timing belt/WP, Idlers,seals - last time they have been replaced. This year the baffle plate also leaks onto the exhaust. Test Torque bind. Look for matching tires.

Two thoughts. I've broken several bolts for rear caliper brackets - I keep them in stock now. I don't believe I've ever broken a front one, but rears - yea. Second. Search here for "motive pressure bleeder" or similar. It's a PRESSURE beleeder - not a vacuum bleeder. Get the adapter for the Subaru Master Cylinder and it screws right on. Works like a dream and no friend needed. Think about it. How air can expand easily and by a multiple of the volume. Could kinda make it hard to "suck" a bubble out. Now pushing possible air bubble(s) out seems to make a lot more sense. I don't put fluid in the gizmo (depending on the vehicle I need DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5). IIR like 50 bucks, very useful, and should serve me a long time. Also because it's so simple I actually do flush some of my cars brakeing systems that I know otherwise I'd never do because it's so easy. Coolant and brake fluid are the most neglected fluids in a car in my opinion.

I bought the Ryobi lime green 18v Lithium set today. Infact the large battery is charging now. If anyone looks at these a note about selection. First off they were priced at 299, 269 and 229 depending on which display you looked at in Home Depot. Onlive 229. There are 2 nearly identical sets. One has a normal size drill/driver that says it shifts if it needs more power (I got the last set like that at my HD). All the other sets had a compact drill/driver. Everything else (including the price) seemed to be the same. So depending on which drill/driver you may prefer pay attention and look for the set that you like. I hope to start to use them next weekend.

I'm pretty darn sure that Black & Decker "created" DeWalt. I also think that possibly someone just purchased Black & Decker - like maybe Stanley Tools - infact the buyout may not even be completed. Makita I have some corded tools and they do well. No current Bosch tools (just tons of Bosch parts on my 9 VW's). I have some DeWalt drill/drivers and the only thing I don't like it the price. The tools I buy may be used by others so I'd hate to pay top dollar to have stuff get broken, missing, etc. Rigid - I still think plumbing tools from before Home Depot existed and they rounded out their product line for retail. About the same time they stopped making their OUTSTANDING calanders. So I haven't owned one. The battery life is key since the house doesn't have utilities (foreclosure) so I'm gonna leave my generator there probably - the neighbors keep a pretty good eye on the place. So I'll be working in the cold (not friendly to batteries) and recharging will be a little more involved than usual. Based on your guesses perhaps I'll compare Ryobi and Rigid - I expect DeWalt to be too expensive. Wonder if like most things there are only a few manufacturers that truely make the items and they are just branded differently. Like lets say the appliance world. Come to think of it I haven't checked Ebay for kicks.

Third vote for engine. Easy, and take advantage or doing maintenance. If maintenance is up to date still do the baffle plate.

Somewhat OT, and don't mean to hijack the thread. I love Sears hand tools. But long ago swore to never buy anything Sears again with a motor. What can I say - it works for me. I'm in the market for a kit of rechargable things for a house I recently purchased. Not an Impact - but the normal drill/driver, sawzall, circular, and light. Looking like probably 18 or so volt and Lithium appears to be worth the money. I have 2 older Dewalt 12 or 14 volt (I forget) drill/driver sets. The newer drill kinda burnt up/smokes and all the batteries have seen better days. I want good quality stuff, but it doesn't have to be top of the line. It'll get used but probably not worn out and most likely the technology will be outdated in a few years. Counting this new house I'll basically have 4 places to take care of/normal maintenance and projects. In doing some research tonight Ryobi at HD is looking like a decent choice and I've never owned one of their products. Anyone with any comments on them, or recommend other brands to evaluate or avoid? Lowes has a decent looking Skil set but I don't recall if it was Lithium. Last Skill stuff I owned had full metal cases so I have no idea of the current quality. It does seem like Porter Cable has gone down hill a bit since I last purchased some of their stuff 20 years ago. Comments please.

You're gonna want OEM seals (crank & cam) oil pump Oring. Ultra-Grey for Oil pump cover, baffle plate if you pull the engine. I usually get OEM or Felpro for intake and exhaust but often it just depends if I'm local or making a trip to the dealer for parts. Valve Cover I usually use fel-pro. Haven't had a problem and they aren't that "deep" into the engine if there is an issue with them. Often the OEM gaskets are similar in price to aftermarket (I know the exhaust ones are).

Unpopular item to sell. Don't even know how much of the assy to remove. I have a 97 IBW Grey interior that I beileve they are o.k. in if noone slcoser speaks up. The belt itself I can't imagine is worth much. The labor to remove, packaging and stuff may be.

Search here. Well covered. Look for links. Best to disconnect the cable at the floor.

Gary, You don't mention year or model. But all the SOHC's that I've done (up to 2006) are much easier than any of the DOHC's.

An old piece of hose works too. Old because they are more mallable than a new hunk that's still curved from being on the roll.

That idler is the most common idler failure that I've seen. I stock an extra. Even if folks wanna go cheap I insist on replacing that one - it takes quite a load. I've seen them where some of the ball bearings melt themselves into the timing covers.

Assuming they aren't gaulded - that's about all the more it takes. Anti-seize!!!! on the fresh ones. I also put dielectric grease on the plug wires and porcelin of the plug. Another thing I've seen done that makes enough sense that I often do it. Get a way, way long extension - especially for the drivers side - like a couple feet long. Rather than trying to use the ratchet in the engine compartment get one long enough that the ratchet is actually outside the fender. Makes a lot of sense when you think about it. I bought a cheap (GRIP) set just for this. And an excellent swivel spark plug socket (S-K or K-D - I always get them confused). A great combination.

Lube them very, very well. They are gonna creak a lot when torqueing - atleast a few of them it seems. Which may cause to double think re-using them. I always reuse them myself.

I'm pretty much in agreement with the others here. I get theimportexperts kits, and get all seals(and WP gasket) at the dealer because I think the OEM's are worth the money. I install Dayco timing belts sourced locally and a new Cardone all metal WP source locally along w/NGK plugs and accessory belts. I've never installed anything other than OEM seals on a suby. I've seen too many black ones leak. If the engine is out - or you're doing HG's a tube of ultra grey and you're all set. I haven't advertised a car for sale for probably 5 months because I'm swamped with my "real" work. But I've sold several - all to folks that Iv'e sold cars to before, or their friends. Folks come back because they DON'T think I've cut any corners. And I know that atleast several of these kits I've installed have gone 80-100k because folks have called me to ask about me doing the next timing belt job. The other folks probably haven't hit 100k or actually listened when I said I don't work on other folk's cars. I've never had a complaint about pre-mature failure. I think these kit are an excellent value, and much better than not addressing the idlers as has already been stated. Them's my thoughts.

Hadn't read far enough. Looks like Porc found it as fues #19 under the dash in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75930&highlight=ABS+fuse Sorry for reviving this. Back to bed (tying and NyQuil don't mix well).

Sorry to resurrect an older thread. I just did some searching and it wasn't quick to be found. And my memory is failing me, it's cold outside, I was in bed w/sinus "issues" and I'd have to look for a flashlight and head outside tonight. Hoping that someone knows this to put my mind at ease until I get out there in the morning. Someone just called to test drive this car tomorrow morning knowing it has the ABS problem. But I still want to pull the fuse and I forget where it is. Is it in the main fuse panel under the dash or on the drivers fender well? I gotta pull the fuse, find the pass side timing belt cover I removed to see if the belt looked like it had been replaced and re-install it, and take it around the block to clean up the brakes by 10am. And meet a realtor to get into the hosue that I bought today. First real cold morning here this year and I expect to be moving slowly... Any thoughts appreciated (mostly for peace of mind). In the morning hopefully I can figure it out/remember where it is myself. Thanks.

When I dis-assemble a car any "worldwide" electronic components get scrapped, or saved for next time I need a core. I've had many of them still looking like new that were crap. I'd never actually install one. I have perhaps a half dozen Subaru Reman alt's from various cars and I typically sell them last. Incase I need them for a car I'm fixing up. The last few board members I sold one to were Subaru reman's. Or I have a local (retireing) that still rebuilds them - often while I wait. Starters alternators, generators, etc. I'll miss him when he's gone. Another "trade" that doesn't make much sense to get into anymore. I give him all the work that I can.

Sears has them - like 20 bucks - often on sale. They have replaced mine 3 times in the last few years. I use it on Suby's for baffle plate screws and often side mirror removal. Always a nice meaty handle when the screw is broken loose.

Sputters and dies sounds like that about 1" about foot long stiff hose that's a bit hidden. Forgive me - I don't do many Foresters. On a Legacy IIR it's on the passenger side. Goes basically from under the airbox over towards the passenger side strut tower. That's all I can remember - but it's happened enough times to me that I know it sounds like a possibility for you. Use your hands to check - not just your eyes. It can be close and look good, but not connected. Happy hunting.

I'd yank it. Look it over good on the engine stand. Then probably take it to a machine shop in all actuality. I'm not big on the whole easyout stuff if it can be helped at all. Same with heli-coils but there aren't many choices when things are this screwed up. When you yank it I'd dryfit all the parts to make sure you have them all so you'll know if that is an additional concern.

See if anyone else has feedback - but I go new if I have a choice. It's kinda deep in there to be using used parts. Especially when I seem to get about 2 per year that are cracked. Infact maybe a third of the manuals I get have either the fork cracked or the clips (TO bearing to fork) broken. And I'd rather fix this problem than HG's. Then again I always pull the engine (never the tranny) and do HG's idlers, belts, plugs, baffle plate, seals, etc while it's out. But then again, I basically only buy broken cars.

A more common failure than you'd think. I buy new due to this. I forget - but I want to say maybe 60 bucks?