davebugs

I use the 3M double sided tape. My simple prep. Clean with soap and water - both pieces Wipe down both surfaces with IPA (Isapropal(sp?) alchohol - also known as dry gas). Install tape mate pieces Press. The warmer all 3 components are the better

As GG says they are a bit "moody" about ignition components. And the knock sensor won't cause it to quit running, or not start. Just for it to run crappy. What brand is the coil pack? Wires? Regular NGK green plugs or something exotic? Start there and the folks here will try and help you out. As a public service - don't buy ANY aftermarket ignition parts for a 2.5 (NGK plugs are OEM, Diamond coil packs I believe can be OEM).

I know there are 3 connectors at the bell housing on 99 and earlier cars, and starting in 2000 (it seems, 99 on Foresters - when things went SOHC 2.5) there are 2 connectors. Never researched further than that for swaps. Also - the usual disclaimer about the rear diff being the same ratio.

They can be fun to find. I'd be willing to bet it's not swap related like GG suggested. ABS prob's have been the most elusive for me.

Quality of rotors VARIES WIDELY. The ultimate "you get what you pay for". I just paid 80 each for my DD and I could have gotten the cheapest for 20. Typically the pads last, and the rotors crap out on my DD. OEM rotors last 100k, cheap aftermarkets last 20k, decent aftermarkets last 60k. I went OEM this time. Infact come to think of it they basically cost 1.00 for each 1k I get out of them. And I'm only talking rotors - so given everything works (no caliper hanging up), is lubed (slide pins and such), it just depends how much you like doing brake jobs. If over 100k miles the cost is literally the same (actually it'd be more when you figure the pads with the rotors as I do) and one way I get to do it one time, and the other 5 times - guess which one I'm gonna choose? YMMV

Yep. Rip them off (and they are a little tougher than yoiu'd think to get off). Disclaimers for the non practical types with apparently deep pockets.

The actual Y pipe is a rare failure. The rusty part (inner part) is the actual exhaust. The non-rusty pieces are the heat shields and expendable. Look for a used one. I have some and am heading that way weekly - maybe 2 hours from you. I usually get 50 bucks for them (single or dual port) and have several of each I believe still in the rafters. They are a bit of a pain to ship. All used ones will have some heat shield issues as already explained. Dave

You'd be creating comparatively tremendous odds of a problem that you didn't have before (a leaking rear main). The only ones I've had to replace had already been replaced one time. Perhaps 5% of the Subaru's that I've done. I leave them alone. Do the baffle plate and call it a day.

I may have some CC stuff off a 95 2.2 or a 97 2.5. Don't recall if the 95 has cruise - and I was never able to drive that car (tranny). The 97 2.5 cruise did work. I'll have to see what it takes to pull. What may you need? I don't usually pull CC parts - so I don't know what they all are or how difficult to remove.

Gary, I've had a few where the button is beside the hood release lever. Still a little black button.

Send me a pic of the top of your throttle body - so that I can see the little vacuum lines. I'm home today but leaving town again. I can possobly get it off before I leave. I'll be back wednesday (buying a Freddie Mac foreclosure) then back to VA for thu and fri. I believe I have 3 97 2.2's here - and one already dug out that I was getting parts off of.

I've done about half as many as Tom - all in the last few years. Usually minor issues - around EVAP and vacuum lines. Nothing major. About as much work as doing HG's in my opinion.

Welcome. I'm in the same general area. Currently spending a lot of time in VA though. Where exactly are you? PM if necessary.

14mm swivel socket. That's exactly why I purchased one. Works better thean a flex joint, wobble extension, etc. 14mm swivel socket (name brand/guaranteed) and a long 3/8 extension or two to get it down where you can put some leverage on it. I tend to try and break this one first. Figure I don't need it to have the additional stress of being the last nut/bolt broken loose. DOn't know if it matters or not. Worst thing would be to round off that nut - that would really be unpleasant. Buy the correct tool. I've taken to having 2 Sears. That way when I break one I still have one until I get it replaced. I believe I broke 4 last year and 2 this year. Then again I'm in the rust belt, and pull a few Suby engines.

Yep. Them grommets get tight. But the motor's just pull/pry off.

That's how I do it. I think I get them delivered for 100 bucks or just over that. I don't even bother pulling them from cars I'm going to scrap since that makes them unable to get off the lift and onto the trailer to scrap. For 100 bucks for me it's money well spent.

They are the same. But sometimes the plumbing for the little EVAP hoses is different. I don't remember more than that. I usually ask for a pic of what they have (on the top - while it's still on their engine) to match up to. I probably have 10 or so left on 2.2 and 2.5's. I've had one return spring break on a throttle body on a 97 Outback, one TPS go bad, and sold a few throttle bodies due to TPS issues.

I typically swap the whole throttle body - I find that easier. You don't say in your profile where you are located. I sell a few per year. Others probably have some as well. Read the procedure for setting a new one. That's why I install a whole throttle body assy.

Wagner Thermo-Quiet is about all I use. Seem to be consistently high quality. Now rotors - there is a crap shoot.

If you're not in a hurry I'm parting a 95 2.2 auto sedan that the rear driveshaft came loose. So the switch should be fine. But it would be a couple weeks until I could get it off. Don't know about shipping to Canada, or if you could return what you have purchased.

The "first" question. Are you sure the DOHC bottom end is good enough to consider to do this amount of work on?

Advance's "jobber" Powerflow filters are Purolator. But I've never seen a cutaway of one. But it's what I use on 2.2 and 2.5's except the much later ones with the bypass valve in them - them I use OEM. Looking at the jobber filter's check valve the OEM valve seems more substancial.

I have a thread here abotu fixing one of these within the past year - it has pics. Well it has pics of everything but the fixing (welding, grinding, slot celanup) on the crank. But you can clearly see how trached the sprocket, harmonic balancer, oil pump, etc was and we were able to fix it.

FWIW I've seen WP gaskets go bad - but never the WP itself. But I do all seals(OEM), idlers, WP & OEM gasket. Occasionally I skimp on the new style tensioner due to the price. Depending on the miles on the car and how it seems when I compress it.