davebugs

Definatley recommended. I try and hit them a day or two before with Liquid Wrench. I think it penetrates better and leaves behind an oily film if you have the time to wait. I use a lot of PB - but usually for stuff I'm basically dis-assembling basically immediately. Another pointer. There is a rubber gasket and those screws typically are tight even when the rust is broken for several turns. And you don't wanna screw up the heads. I frequently use one of those impact drivers to get them started. Then I use it for the first few turns since it's big and meaty and easy to get a grip on and keep sufficient pressure on the bolt. I have scrapped cars with like new filler tubes because the screws/bolts got buggered up and it's not worth the risk of burning down the garage to use a Dremel or something to cut a slot in them.

Waste of time. And harder to fix later. All that crap gets into the heater core, radiator, engine, WP, etc. I'd say either park it, sell it, or fix it right. Anything else is pissing into the wind. A waste of time and money. Do yourself a favor and do a little searching here. Cause next thing you know if it's all about the money you'll be buying an EBay HG kit (due to the price) and get to do it twice. That really sucks(but it goes much quicker the second time). Infact it was probably a waste of my time with the response.

Yea - and start mulitple threads! I just answered the "other" one with basically the same info that these folks gave you.

Search here for "resetting security system" or similar. Common issue. On Legacy's there is a black button with under the steering column or by the hood release. Not that formiliar with Foresters. Do a search, find a flashlight, and stick your head on the drivers floormat and start looking.

I'm usually doing it all. But I believe the WP doesn't need to be removed at all to do the oil pump. But I do buy the OEM WP gasket if one is needed. Yes - when you remove the oil pump (you'll need a new crank seal - OEM recommended) you'll be able to see the screws on the back. Make sure they are tight. Some here use Loctite. I install the crank seal after the oil pump is re-installed. But there was a thread about that recently some folsk install the seal while the pump is on the bench.

He's probably talking about the rubber vacuum line that goes to the brake booster. It's got a few bends in it and a check valve built into it.

Tom, What I would need in particular is the striped for a rear wheel well side. Then I'd have a pattern and the color to take and see about getting some made. So if anyone has a side they aren't using for around the wheel well in particuler that they could sell at a fair price or loan to me for a few weeks I could get an answer. At this time it just doesn't make sense for me to buy a set to use as a pattern. Infact the only car I currently had that could have used this repair sold last night. But I'd expect I'll see more. Would be one of those things that would be nice to know for the future and if other may be interested that's even more incentive. Usually they like to cut full sheets. The place I usually use does a lot of emergency vehicles so they are used to the long stripes. Infact they are used to installing them as well which may be an option for me.

Yep. And that part that porc showed is a tight fit to get back in there. Clean well and assembly lube and take your time. I've found it easier to install it using the 2 bolts a turn or two at a time each after aligned than trying to "work" the piece into almost fully seated then starting with the bolts.

The more I thought about this thread and these tires I ordered more on monday. Local tire shop about the same price as tirerack.

I use only OEM on 2.5's but if you're using some weird off-brand that could be the issue. Fel-por isn't a weird offbrand but are almost the same cost as OEM so like I said on 2.5's (and now 2.2's) I only use OEM. But if you have something generic in there - a good guess would be that's the source of the problem.

The oil pump screws were suggested as one of the first posts in the old thread. I'd certainly take the time to check them when doing the seal.

It only works for removal, and re-installation is actually more critical.

Sounds like you may have it done. But a little DOT3, wrench for the bleeder and a rag to put under it wouldn't be a bad idea to take with you.

they have/had atleast 2 threads going about this swap. So the exhaust and stuff I had mentioned in that thread - the thread where they have the engine serial# and want to know what your it is. I believe some searching and reading is in order by the poster rather than starting mulitple threads asking common questions. But that's me. Just giving others a heads up. Several of us answering the same common questions deosn't make any sense to me. Especially when searching would have easily turned up the info to begin with.

Use the flywheel from the 2.5 (it's the only one you have anyways).

Someone will definatively know but I don't think any external tranny filters existed until 97 or 98 or so. I do a lot of 95's and have never seen one on any of them.

No puller needed but a tool to hold it while crank bolt is romoved and more importanlty to hold it when crank bolt is later tightened.

Welcome. Use the search function. Common swap. As far as the year of the donor engine. As long as it has EGR you need to look at the exhaust to see if it's a 95 (dual port - like your 2.5) or later with a single port exhaust. If it's a single you'll need the matching Ypipe. Other than that is basically whether the 2.2 is interference and sometimes plumbing for vacuum lines. I put itming belts, etc on them before installation. But you may want to update your location with something useful. There may be a helpful member near you who has already done this. But lots and lots here using the search about this.

I appreciate the well though out response. I am having tools made and selling them without all the hassle. Small scale 6-10 at a time. There is no tool real close to this, existing Patents I don't know. I had basically come to the conclusion Patenting wasn't worth the effort. The "tool set" I'm currently selling for 200.00. Even if someone had one of these to copy and free machine time I still don't think it would be worth cranking out copies. They are costing me about 160-180 ea. So far all have been sold local (amazing how news like this spreads amongst tech's) but I hope to sell them for 200. Should leave me with a few bucks each and my friend will have some work for his shop. A larger margin would be great as some payback for the development, trial and error, investment in material, hardware, and machining. But I think at this price point folks will be more likely to buy. This will lead to a much better experience for them performing the bushing replacement and I'll make a few bucks. I didn't design the tool to sell it - just for my own use since nothing quality and affordable was available. Actually my return is pretty poor even if they sell for 200.00 with my cost and the hassle of it all. I'll see how it goes. Between Lawyers and foreign ripoff outfits I figured three things would happen. I'd spend even more money, more time, and still be pissed off when it was copied later. Thus the low pricing.

A search should turn this stuff up. The "harmonic balancer" is also the "crankshaft pulley". It does have a rubber section between the bolt in the middle that goes into the crankshaft and the 2 places on the outside that drive the accessory belts. Read it again. He's telling you to put the screwdriver on the ALTERNATOR - actually both ends of it. You can't check the harmonic balancer by listening with a screwdriver. However often if it's seperating (or loose) you can see it wobble when the car is running. Answered while OBW99 was answering so some duplication.

Knowing what year/model might help a bit. If it's a Legacy thypically the harmonic balancer runs BOTH accessory belts (PS and alt/AC comp).

I have an AC Delco. Not bad, better than a cheap pneumatic, but not as good as a good pneumatic.

Someone came to look at a car and I can't get the hood up. Seems attached to the "handle" inside the car jsut fine and had about the typical resistance when I pulled it. Tried one pulling and one bouncing the hood to no avail. Did a search and turned up a thread about using an old hood cable to remove windshields but not what I was looking for. Any guidance? How to get the hood "freed" to get it up to check things out?

This thread caused me to visit tirerack last night. For my size (195/65/15) the Altimax's were rated #2 and were 63.00, the #1 rated tire just beat it and was 110.00. I'm thinking of getting more of them to rotate in with the 4 that I have with abnormal wear due to other issues with the car that have since been fixed (althought the new tierods today will help). Gotta love how tire companies marketing tactics for the past several years is trying to force a person to buy 4 winter tires for non AWD/4WD cars.

Gary, They are very annoying to bleed. I've tried suction and other methods. One of the last things I do is unbolt the slave (if necessary) and push IN on the plunger with the cap to the master off. Often this will get more bubbles. Something else I often do is as soon as I have some pedal I take it for a short ride. I swear it helps get some of the bubbles out - or atleast have them consolidate so they purge better when I get back. Good luck. I'd love to see a definitive how-to on this like the radiator burping instructions. If I know what always worked I'd gladly write it up myself. Dave