davebugs

I believe the OP was for an Impreza and the wires come out at the top on the drivers side at the hatch. I can't tell from the Legacy illustration for sure where they go on the Legacy - it looked more to me like they went down the drivers post. But I could easily be wrong. But on the Legacy drawing it looks like the wires to the hatch come out the other side (Passenger side) and I believe they were on the Drivers on the one that I had to fix.

A poor design area for sure. Especially since you can't "pull" enough out of the interior compartment to make a good repair. I ended up splicing every wire twice in an attempt to "push" the first splice into the headliner so that it wasn't a flex worry, and have the second splice in the hatch for protection.

I have one already off somewhere around here off a 96 Legacy sedan. But I couldn't have shipped it in time. I also should have one on the 95 Legacy sedan - but again couldn't get it removed and to you in time. Hope your local search turns something up.

Mine are 195/65 15's so they aren't as tall as the 205/70/15's on the OBW's. I usually set cruise about 90 on I80. Lots of windy roads arounds here (hills and all) and VW's handle good to begin with(one of the reasons I drive them), and it usually gets driven "spirited". I haven't noticed a sidewall issue at all. And now that I think about someone else's comment about them being quiet - I think they are. Compared to the prior Goodyears, I can't recall about versus the OEM Continentals, and I forget everything inbetween.

I've had they for a while on my VW diesel. When they were new (a year or so ago) Tirerack had a deal and a rebate on them do I bought my first ever tires from Tirerack. They have been good. Due to other issues I had to rotate them one time and the rears are too unevenly worn to re-rotate so they are all gonna die where they are. Very good on rainy roads. They have 25k on them and are wearing about as I'd expect (other than the abnormal wear which isn't their fault). The 01 VW Golf isn't really a very small or light car. Overall I've been pretty happy with them. And am debating about getting new tires for winter since it looks like I'll be traveling a bit. If the roads really get bad I take my AWD Astro Van. So these have been good, but I don't know what I'll get next. The Promo was General Altimax HP 91H’s fom tirerack 232 + 42 shipping then a 50.00 visa card rebate for 195/65/15's on 7/10/8. YMMV (literally)

Don't know why you'd pull O2 sensors for this code. The knock sensor - is easy. I highly recommend you learn the search function. But basically open hood, stand at the drivers front wheel, bend over. Just before the throttle body down on the engine you'll see it. A black round thing about 1" around with a bolt in the middle. Seaqrch for the instructions. There is some science to the route the cable attached to it take it seems. So you want to note how it is now. It also doesn't take much torque - again - search is your friend. Whether it's your issue or not I don't know. Only one cylinder misfire and not the accompanying cylinder?

Yes the 95-99 should work. But look at the ashtray "tracks" first. I've sold quite a few of them and had a lady here saturday that needed the "tracks" in addition to the ashtray. That's why the ashtray was missing.

Thanks for looking. I thought there were 2 shades on the doors and I figured part was paint, part vinyl decal. I could have had 20 of these fixed last year, and probably 10 fixed this year. If I keep doing Subaru's perhaps I'll buy a set and take them to a vinyl shop to see if they think they can reproduce them cost effectively. What came with your set - all the silver/grey decals for above the rub strip on the doors, and all the silver/grey area on the fenders?

I always wondered a few things - and by now I've scrapped enough that I should have investigated but I always forget. What is decal and what is paint of the silver/grey stuff - especially on the bottoms of the doors. Around here all almost all the rear wheel well's have the jap rust. I have a guy who can fix them but have always stayed away from having it fixed on OB's. Any comments of redoing the lip around the wheel well with decal or paint? Lastly - there are now Vinyl shops in every other garage it seems. Anyone tried having any of this made?

Gary, You know this but I always just yank the engine. It's not that hard with the few handy tools. I worry more about what else to do while the engine it out. I ALWAYS replace the clutch fork clips and have the flywheel done. But things like a timing belt job and related (seals, WP, idlers), I always throw new plugs in while they are easy. Those may be the expensive plugs but why not unless the ones in there are real fresh? Valve covers are easy at this stage. Coolant. That's a late enough model with the metal baffle plate that it's up to you whether to reseal it. I always do whenever I have a Suby engine out. Like I've also stated on the older ones that I usually work on I've been having bad luck with slave cylinders after engine R&R so now I just budget for one. But I'm doing 95-99's with 120-180k on them so they have significant age and miles. Have fun.

I'm a bit ashamed to say that I don't know what a Yahoo list is. Last time I really played with the VW's was probably more than 10 years ago and the 'net has come a long way since then. Only site I even really know of is thesamba and I'd say it's onle fair. Haven't relly spent much time looking though. If you have any links I'd appreciate them. Looking like the buggy may wait until next year. Perhaps I can start with a 97 2.2 that I have setting here and get to work on it, the wireing(I HATE wireing), etc. I don't currently have an ECU but I have a running 95 to part on the trailer.

Wherever you're buying them from will know. You can do some searching here. For one of them folks have had luck with the generic ones, for the other not so much luck. I usually have used ones. And if none of them work I go new OEM and am done with it. My soldering skills are a bit challanged. And the last thing I wanna be doing is playing with expensive cats because I'm not getting the correct info from an O2 sensor. But that's me.

A suby tech that I know thinks I shoudl throw one of the good 2.2's I have setting around into the buggy. It needs rebuilt/engine swap. 40 PSI in all cylinders and blows oil out of the engine due to the pressure. Like now a quart of striaght 30 weight every 30 miles? I figure Kennedy makes an adapter. But it's the plumbing and radiator that I really don't want to mess with. It's a pristine Blue Metallic (molded into the Gelcoat) so I certainly don't wanna mess with the body. The wrecked '73 I'm expecting to be the motor donor for the buggy. I also have 2 NEW longblocks that I've had since they announced closing the factory in Mexico probably better than 10 years ago. With a decent VW 1,600 it's got plenty of power. Perhaps if I find easy swap instructions I'd reconsider it. But in order to move onto the next project I'll probably jsut swap VW engines. I'll crack this one open first to see if jsut jugs/rings may be all it needs. I assume you saw the thread here where someone is putting an old style Suby engine into a 59 bug. Looks like a lot of work but he's basically done with the mechanicals. And it's looking good.

01 TDI Golf daily driver 181k. 62 sedan (VA car - low miles - been apart and primed for 15 years?), 62 single cab 24k?, 71 deluxe bus pushing 100k?, 79 triple white convertible - pushing 100k, 69 bug 22k?, street legal Blue metallic dune buggy, wrecked 73 bug. I think I'm forgetting one. May be getting a 74 Thing(local) and 64 bus(from Maryland). They even have their own "house". I've been working on too many Suby's to play with them for a few years. But I just started working on the bus recently. Now I can't get any Suby's into the garage!

Someone here will have the specs. I do them as tight as I can get them - probably 170-180 lbs but in my opinion that takes a real tool and not just a screwdriver stuck into the flex plate while the engine is in the car. I get nervous about tightening something that tight with a "make shift" solution but many here do it.

2.2's are sturdier and have less annoyances anyways (piston slappers and oil pump screws as well as HG's and Rod Knock come immediately to mind). I still drive a VW TDI everyday(181k uneventful miles) and have 7 air cooled's - in the middle of putting the engine back together for my 71 bus and am now tied up with "real" work. Been years since I totally redid a VW air cooled. This one I left the case, jugs, and heads together. It was just such a pain to pull. I was originally just gonna replace the fuel tank, leaking rear main, and clutch kit. It was such a PITA to get out of the bus that I figured I'd reseal it, clean it up after years and years of a rear main leak. The fan and shroud had about 1/4" of oil residue/dirt on them. Then I have several others that need minor maintenance. I also have sold 3 VW MARKIII's in the last month and have a 98 Golf 5 speed for sale now and perhaps a 97 GTI 5 speed(haven't decided to fix or part it). The 2.0's are bullet proof(I can get one delivered for 85.00 with a warranty), the auto tranny's and 5 speed's reverse not so much. Nothing rides or handles like a VW in my opinion. A much heavier car than even the luxury Jap cars in my mind including Acura, Infinity, Lexus - that's why I drive one. 40mpg in an automatic and expected life of 500k doesn't hurt either. I always get 200k out of Chevy's. Haven't had a Toyota or Honda in a while - but of the 2 I prefer Honda's. Just a crappy ride and handling. If you'd like some other engines to do and have an idea of the cost let me know. I'm in no hurry. After I pick them clean of most parts/sensors I scrap them. I should probably be thinning the heard anyways. ABout the time of the year to try and stuff too much stuff into the garage for the winter. Last year I had to let a wrecked 73 bug set outside that had been inside for probably 12 years. But it may be worth the trip to bring a few engines over if price and workmanship is good to see if this makes sense.

Learn to do the bearings. You can buy them all day long with bad bottom ends and HG's. If I had more expertise I'd consider it myself. But it's a hobby for me. From what I've seen the 95-99 2.5 DOHC's are bad with HG's probably leading to the bearings. Piston slap aside (it's just annoying). My only experience with 2000 2.5 SOHC was way bad. Took a few engines to get one with a good bottom end. Heck - you're in Columbus. I do probably have a dozen 2.5 DOHC's that could be split and fixed. If you're up for it, know what you're doing, and reasonable, and I have the time to do the swaps, I can probably give you one a week to do. I've got some here if you'd like to tear them down "for science sake". I'm buried with work but would gladly host a "redoing the bottom end" GTG here - I even have engines for folks that don't. But I don't know of anyone local that has the knowledge. I'd actually love to do it. A local VW tech wants to tear one down. He's thinking of doing his wife's bearings in a 2000 2.5 SOHC while he's doing HG's so he doesn't need to basically ever yank it again. I have a bad 97 2.5 for him to play with - it may actually be beyond repair.

Hey - you make it sound like I didn't warn you.... Anyone coming for a 2000 2.5 SOHC with bad bearings? I have a lady coming for front body parts in the morning. GG is correct. I have about a dozen 2.5's here with bad bearings (to varying degree's) that I use for parts. If it's just HG's I usually fix them. I also have a few 2.2's with HG issues where oil/water mixed or were overheated so I simply replaced them. Also a 97 2.2 that checked out fine in the car but had too much oil sludge for me to put in a car to sell. And a 96 2.2 that I never heard run that I pulled where the car had a fuel delivery problem I got tired of trying to solve that I had a thread about several months ago. Also a good running 95 2.2 in a car on the trailer. But I've done enough of them now and have enough repeat customers that they learned to ask for 2.2's in the Outbacks. Gary - it went pretty smooth this evening - better than expected. Also I may have another shot at a Blue 97 OBW on tuesday - probably needs an engine and I'm full up with cars and getting buried in real work. May you be interested?

I'm parting a 95 sedan now. I'll look and see if it has ABS. I removed the front bumper assy for a lady coming tomorrow to get it. I've never driven the car - the tranny went. The only one I have on the shelf is from a 99 OBW.

I'm thinking of about a foot long metal pipe that is near where the engine meets the trans on the drivers side. Perhaps it's on all Suby's and I'm mistaken. All the rubber hose mess is on the intake along with the actual EGR. Perhaps someone more firmiliar with non-EGR engines will chime in. A key question is whether the 95 2.2 is from an Automatic (has an EGR). I myself don't know about the heads.

Common issue not worth fixing. I have several radio's and folks are frequently contacting me asking about a radio with a light that works and all of mine have the same issue. I don't even check that anymore - just if they play and that the LED's are o.k. Wish it was as easy as the HVAC lights to fix.

First thought there may be an issue with the EGR metal pipe that's abotu a foot long that comes outta the block (near the bellhousing) and into the drivers side head. If it's a block from a non-EGR car it's gonna be a pain. Better post what year block you're thinking of and whether or not is has EGR.

This could be lots of things. Including rod knock. Who did the work - by that I mean did they check the oil pump screws and such?

How far and spirited did you drive it? I've had it take 100 miles or so. I'd do that first. I take a 50 mile trip to a mall. Shop, let it cool down, drive back home. This also puts 2 cycles on it to see potential codes like O2 sensor, cat, etc.

If you value your time and sanity you should get a 95-99 2.2 w/EGR. 95 is the best, 96 is next best - you'll need a single port Ypipe. 98-99 will work but you may have to spend a little time with charcoal canister plumbing. Search around here - lots of info already covered for this common swap.