davebugs

Gets my vote since both don't work. If the car had airbags that light would probably be on as well.

jellyman - as GG says you need to specify exactly what years/size engines you're working with. But I'd say (along with others here) that if you're gonna make the 2.5 jump from pre 2000 2.5 DOHC to something after 2000 it's not worth the effort. And there are folks here who don't mind a good challange who have already responded. Even if the donor engine was free you'd be further ahead to buy a pre 2000 2.2 and put it in there. As stated it will physically fit. BUt as a starter the wireing connectors are different at the eng/trans bellhousing on the pass side. The pre 2000 has 3 connectors, the post 2000 has 2 connectors. So right away you're looking at an unpleasant challange (I see wireing as definately unpleasant). Then you start with all the sensors, cam/crank notches that the sensors can read, it's just much simpler to get another engine. Heck - just sell the engine you were planning on using. If it's a 2.5 you should get enough money out of it to more than pay for a 95-99 2.2 and that's a pretty easy swap.

Get the wobbly harmonic balancer checked ASAP. You could be on your way to a bit of a miserable and usually rather expensive repair if it is loose and it gets run that way for a length of time.

Now there's an understatement. I don't know how you find all of this stuff. But I certainly appreciate the links. And I'd imagine others do as well.

If it doesn't run I'm never able to get codes. Perhaps you will be luckier.

Suby's tap when put back together. MMO is great for this - don't ask me why. It was suggested here and I had never used it before. I let it warm up a few times to heat cycle it, pull coolant in. I wait until the fan kicks on then shut it off and let it cool for a long time (preferably over night). Check coolant, refill overflow to proper line. Restart it, let it warm up, take it for a drive. After a few minutes make it a "spirited" drive. With the MMO in there and a few miles of actual driving they usually quiet down. Atleast thats been my experience.

The Sea Foam is cheap and easy (just makes TONS of white smoke). Hey - it may even help clean the O2 sensor. I've done this to several cars, then put about 1k or more on them before selling them waiting to have the CEL come back on and it never did. When or if it ever came back on I can't speak to. But for the price I've had tremendous success.

I forget how many miles you said your car had - or the year - other than it's late model. But on the older ones the slave cylinders are around 50-55 bucks. Can be a bit of a pain to bleed.

Year? Miles? I've had pretty good success with the Sea Foam treatment for "catalytic performance below threshold" or whatever it's called. Others here will tell you to try an O2 sensor or two first. Do some searching.

These cars last a long time if taken care of. I fix and resell them until they hit about 200k for still decent money. They frequently go 250-300k with some care and maintenance. Perfect for College kids with the AWD, room for hauling stuff (in the wagons) and they can take a hitch for a U-haul. Keep the tires matched. When doing the timing belt do all the seals and components, and you should be fine. Only other pointer is use the regular old NGK V-groove green spark plugs - nothing exotic. If you wonder what the oil leak leaking onto the Ypipe is it's called a baffle or oil seperator plate NOT the rear main. Still have to pull the engine or trans just to redo the RTV on it. Excellent resource here. And you have an advantage in that you already use the search function (unlike a lit of Newbie's). And now folks know what area you're in.

Welcome. I do admire the fact that you found the search function and found this old thread before starting a new one. It's just a pet peeve of mine when folks don't post where they are from. There are members in your area who you may hear from now that may have a used Harmonic Balancer for instance. Or the tool to hold the balancer when tightening. The "outer" piece of the harmonic runs the accessory belts. It'll also wear into the timing belt cover if allowed to wobble. It still needs replaced. Just not quite as critical from the timing belt perspective. It alone won't ruin the engine (unless you don't get the bolt tight). But it could ruin the cover and/or not run the accessories properly. You know it's gotta totally fail soon. It still needs replaced.

o.k. let me try this again. Where is Edgerton? I have no clue - and I'm sure many others don't as well. How about a city/state large enough that actually means something? Yes - you need a harmonic balancer. Make sure the new thermostat is in the correct way (I believe OEM's can only go in one way). Usually in my experience if the hoses were o.k. and the car wasn't bottomed out and broke the plastic neck then it's the gasket that leaks. Hardly ever the pump itself. You'll need a harmonic balancer for sure. After someone can actually tell where you live they may offer a used one that would be much less expensive than a new one. You're gonna have to search around here to see the work around methods to get the crank bolt real tight if you don't have the correct tool. The harmonic balancer doesn't have any timing marks on it - it just drives the accessory belts.

Please update your location with something useful. You're gonna need a better tool than a chain wrench - and now you need a new harmonic balancer as well. In addition to whatever you were originally needing to fix. What engine, mileage, and know maintenance history? Did you check the LITTLE hose coming off the water pump. Have you looked for the WP gasket leaking?

Yep, and crank seal, you'll have the pump cover off anyways. I usually do the spark plugs as well thile I'm doing the major maintenance. I get aftermarket all metal WP but use the OEM gasket - I think they are a much better design/quality. Usually Cardone or Advange's "signature" series. Subaru for the cam/crank seals and WP gasket in my opinion. I'm one that Gary speaks of using the Ebay idlers and getting a different timing belt for an interference engine. I also replace both accessory belts when I'm putting it all back together. If you don't know - READ HERE about the MAJOR problems from not getting the crank bolt tight enough. Frankly if you don't think you can get it tight enough you should pay someone to do the whole job - it'll be cheaper in the long run.

Excellent Progress. Lookin' good.

Yea - you weren't the one sleeping with one eye open in the mountains Saturday night. She went a bit psycho to say the least. Almost 5 years, atleast I don't have to buy this one a house, that gets expensive. As a friend says - "only thing worse than being alone is wanting to be alone" - well actually that's my saying but he literally had a sign made he liked it so much. If you haven't been married I hope you haven't experienced this. I'm quite happy alone, but it's also fun to share things with someone special. The good had been outweighted by the crap for some time now. Since this is a car forum here were some of the original very minor strikes against her. Can't drive a stick and doesn't want to learn how. Doesn't understand why a fella has more than one vehicle. "It's all about me" isn't just a saying but a way of life (need to add her kids and grandkids in there as well). I own 10 cars, trucks, vans, perhaps 11 soon. 7 are sticks, most are antiques. Then there are the cars I fix and sell. She's a neat freak - I'd rather be doing something more enjoyable than cleaning (especially with her if you know what I mean). Why don't women like this date gay guys from the city who are neat, and have one automatic car? I'm sure most of us have lived through this more than one time (I, personally have seen this movie before) on both sides. It always sucks at some level. But I'm about to get the bumper sticker "How can I miss you if you won't go away?". Good news is that she lives 50 miles away, we mostly weekended together so there isn't splitting of stuff, just returning some of her bath robes, slippers, and trinkets(here at the house and in the mountains). But I'm expecting a last stand or two - she had it pretty good and I don't see her giving up that easily. Yea - dating sucks - can't wait to start it all over again! For those of you truely happily married - congratulations, I do believe it's rare. For the rest of us that are single, well, there are worse things. I do believe in Marriage, just not for me at this stage in my life, or my financial life.

Poke around. I just sold some used hitches. I think etrailers.com had some listings. You may want to call Schreck Industries locally in Washington twp. at (724) 727-3444 I worked there years ago. They handle quality stuff and have the expertise to do anything needing done. If you end up going there let me know if you'd like to stop in - perhaps a mile from my house. I don't have much experience with Subaru's as new as yours and I don't work on other folks cars anyways. The GF's 2006 Impreza I kinda have to work on, and I believe that won't be lasting much longer (her - not the car). There are a few relative locals on this MB from time to time several I have met.

Hope you don't mean the one I sold you that needed HG's or an engine - I forget. Then again I really didn't spend much time on it or I would have fixed and sold it myself.

Never seen a plug for the front diff. Try again. Lean over the passenger side fender, see the transmission bellhousing, follow it backwards as it gets skinnier. It might just be a metal loop or the bright plastic as the other dipsticks. I forget since I've been working on my VW lately I may be getting confused abotu it being metal. It's a very short dipstick that you get to front the top passenger side. I've never seen a plug. There could be one on yours but I've never seen one.

Hey - what'd you do for the cooling? Kennedy adapter for the trans?

Yea - a foot or so infront of the brake booster and down 6 inches or so (from memory) under a few hoses. It's a bright yellow loop - same color as the oil dipstick top. You may literally have to push some small hoses aside to see it - you have to push them aside to reinstall the dipstick or to make way for a funnel to add ATF. But that's where it is.

Please update your info with a meaningful city/state. The ATF dipstick is hidden by some hoses. It's right infront of the brake booster. There are a couple of hoses in the way. It may be easier to see from the front of the car - look for it - its yellow. Beware that sometimes they are stuck into the tube.

Sounds oil pressure related to me. Pump is most suspect but could also be Oring on the pickup tube. When I say it sounds like the pump usually they do not need replaced but just the backing screws tightened. But if I were paying someone to do the job I may just install a new one. If things like crank/cam seals weren't done at TB job time I'd consider them, possible idlers and possible WP. The engine will be have to be torn down to a level where they wouldn't be much more labor - just $'s for parts.

Glad you got it wrapped up - again. Never would have guessed the clutch disc backwards or that it was possible.

Hey - if it only lasts a few seconds are you sure it's not the oil pump/backing screws? Piston slap seems to last several minutes, not seconds.