davebugs

I don't do these kinds of swaps. But gas in oil is typically one of 3 things. Bad fuel pressure regulator Injector is bad and/or leaking down Fuel return line is plugged.

Basics please. Legacy/Impreza/Forester, year, perhaps even miles. That kinda stuff. I'm having similar issues with a 97 Legacy L wagon.

I believe you'll need to drill and tap the block for that metal tube that I believe ties into the EGR system thats about a foot long IIR. That would be a bit of a pain. Unless you don't need the EGR stuff.

I seem to remove a lot that are black, newer, and leaking. I just get them at the dealer. They are still under 10 bucks each. They are an item I've not chanced using something other than OEM. If someone has used something else with long term success I'd love to hear about it - especially if the price is significantly different.

Post this in the New Generation forum. Do some searching there on head gasket replacement and you'll probably find all your part#'s. If not your dealer will have the part#'s since you want all dealer gaskets anyways. Acutally the Subaru head gaskets are a must. The exhaust and intake I use OEM or Fel-Pro. But search in New Generation AND post this question there.

SEARCH! Common issue if it's due to rust. I forget but try pulling the handle out THEN lock and unlock from the power lock botton or remote. Then pull on the handle again and it will probably open. If that doesn't work try the opposite. Push the handle IN while the hatch is down, lock and unlock using the power botton/remote whatever then try and open it again. Relatively inexpensive and somewhat easy fix. I want to say the parts are still less than 40 bucks. Assuming it's the typical rust issue.

I believe that you may be correct. Thus my request for a photo of that area behind the intake for cyl#3. I guessing either he's missing the T or the plug is in the manifold (where the 2 holes are close together above cyl#3) and he needs to remove the plug and put in a nipple.

Not ringing any bells for me. Perhaps someone else knows. A pic of the back side of the intake (lower left in the existing pic - behind intake for cyl#3) would show whether there is a T in the line back there and other lines. Do all lines appear accounted for? Sometimes I end up with a plug in the top hole (of the 2 holes) in the intake above cylinder #3, sometimes I don't. I just work through each one. I'm shutting down for the night. Hopefully someone can recognize this and assist you.

Yea - do some searching. Off the top of my head. OEM crank and cam seals. Idlers(perhaps new tensioner). If you plan on having it for a while I'd probably just yank it and do the HG's while I was at it. Also check the baffle plate - actually I'd reseal it. I also wouldn't touch the rear main. Valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, Oil pump Oring (and check the screws). Do some searching.

Search will tell you all you need to know. Then ask SPECIFIC questions if you have any. A lot of us do these swaps frequently.

I definately have difficulties searching Endwrench. So much so that there is an Endwrench folder in my Bookmarks where I save links.

Hash marks only!!! Ignore arrows and such.

I get mine (when I can due to time constraints) from Ebay. I get the Valeo ones and pay like another 20 bucks to get the one with all American and Japanese parts. For 20 bucks less you get parts from all over the world in the kit. Valeo is a major OEM supplier. I used to obtain most clutches loacal in a kit named "Rhino Pak" and the actual clutches (and some other components) were Valeo it's just on Ebay they are much cheaper. I always get the flywheel surfaced - but a lot of folks don't.

Possible knock sensor? Runs sluggish? Look at it and see if it's cracked for a start.

o.k. lets start with year, model, engine that should have been in the original post. For the 95-99's I use Advance's universal stuff - looks like Mountain Dew. Of course I'm pulling the engine and doing the heads or swapping engines, typically having the rad flushed and pressure tested. So I have most of the coolant out of the system. In the later model and 6 cylinder cars I'd probably pay up for the dealer stuff.

There was a rash of these last year suddenly. I sold 3 in a few weeks and that's all that I sold last year. Do some additional research. I'd consider swapping the whole throttle body rather than trying to set that sensor. I'm a little electrically challanged though. So resetting it looks lika e huge pain to me. The screws that hold in that sensor I use an impact on - they are easy to screw up the heads on.

That IS the ignitor.

If you're lifting a 2.2 or 2.5 there is a tab where the eng/trans meets by where you disconnect the wireing on the back. Then on the drivers front I use the alternator bracket where the AC compressor was. Doesn't perfectly balance but it's not bad. Neither of those are sharp.

I use a beam that has 2 short chains. Has a crank to change the fulcrum(?) point to change the pitch of the engine. I think it was 50 bucks? Most auto parts that carry "engine crane's" have them. Otherwise I'd just go to the hardware store. Noone will be under the engine anyways. You're assuming the risk though.

Dot and hash marks(dot has a hash mark on the back anyways just under the cam sensor on the block. . NEVER arrows or anything else. Hash marks on the cam sprockets and the timing belt covers

I used to run gates belts and hoses. They are difficult to obtain locally anymore. I have been using Dayco for several years with no issues for timing and accessory belts. Radiator hoses as well. The "house brands" I have only bought one time to get a car home at Advance. It was crap. I'm feeling better about the Dayco belts and hoses as several I've installed in Subaru's and VW's have 100k+ on them. Probably 6 years ago I had issues with a gates hose and belt in the same week. Until that unlucky week that had always served me well. Never tried the Goodyear products but the place I buy my idlers from online I believe has them as an option now. So perhaps it's worth checking with them "theimportexperts.com".

Do some searching. It's done all the time. Infact there are a few active threads on it now with folks having minor issues.

When this usually happens you often need to mess with the vacuum line plumbing around the EGR, Throttle Body, and above the intake for cylinder#3 where they are tied into the intake. What year car are you working on? I'm guessing atleast a 97 but for sure 98 & 99's don't have the canister up front. I do enough that I get confused. Might be helpful to other folks trying to help you out knowing what year the car is and the 2.2 going in.

Is htat sensor really behind the harmonic balancer on the tip - if so it's the crank sensor. IIR the alternator makes it a bit tough to get to. The cam sensor is more "at the corner" of the engine on the drivers side, the top corner by the oil dipstick.

Glad you got it wrapped up!