davebugs

Search for "head gaskets" unless they were recently done using Suby gaskets. And even then if done wrong it could still be HG's. I don't think the AC has anything to do with it. After all how did the original bubble get into the cooling system? If you're sure it was burped it's probably HG's. Welcome to a large club.

I deal mostly with the older stuff (95-2000). 2.2's are seemingly bullet proof. Especially the 95's but that's older than you're looking for. 2.5's - well choose your HG ussue preference. But it's really the rod knock that bothers me about them. HG's are fixable. GF has a 2006 Impreza with probably 70-80k (I forget) that has been trouble free. It has a 2.5. Only comment on it was to make sure you service the tranny. I started a thread last year (IIR) about how dirty the fluid was after like 50k miles. Plugs are a PITA but not as bad as the DOHC 2.5's. I hope the HG issues are truely cured. But I just don't know much about the newer stuff.

Blue smoke could be from changing plugs and getting oil in there. On a 95 I think the plugs are in the middle of the heads and there are Orings around the plugs. But the last few I did were DOHC's and 97 2.2's so I haven't seen a 95 recently but I do have one on the trailer. Just too lazy to go out in the dark and look at it. Or if the engine was on a stand and you twirled it around someitmes that seems to cause it. CEL with no codes doesn't sound kosher. You need a better reader. My 50 dollar one works well so I wonder what you're using. Did you look at how yucky the throttle body was when doing the swap? Did the engine run without hesitation in the 95? You had to redo some small vacuum lines due to the charcoal canister being moved from the front (on the 95) to the rear (on the 99) so perhaps something went wrong there. I forget what goes where but I think you may end up plugging one of the holes in the intake manifold above cylinder #3. I get them mixed up what year engines into what year car body's causes which work arounds. All things to check. Does it still burn blue at the start? If you get a CEL you really should be getting a code and probably pending code(s).

Come to think of it I just sold one that had about 3 extra quarts of ATF in it and I never checked the diff level. I was in a hurry - car was basically sold before I fixed it. Family wanted the car ASAP. Tranny/diff didn't whine though. They saw the rear diff was weeping so I pulled that plug and fluid started oozing out. Never thought of checking the front. Perhaps I missed a potential issue. Bummer. Usually I'm pretty darn thorough.

At this point drain them both and start over. Both get filled through the dipsticks. The short passenger side one gets gear oil. Less than 2 quarts. The long one with a yellow top dipstick should take 3.5 or so - between 3 and 4 quarts it seems(see torgue converter, etc. discussions) of ATF. Let us know what you get out of each. Color and qty.

You may not be too bad off. Definately not as bad as if you put diff oil into the auto trans. The diff takes less than 2 quarts. Drain it and fill it with the correct stuff like 80w90 or whatever gear oil. I forget - it's up in the garage. Check the ATF level - it is probably real low if you originally drained red/dirty fluid. Figure adding roughly 3.5 quarts there. May be worth removing the 17mm drain on the ATF again so that you are sure you're starting with the pan empty. Fill it through the same hole that you used to check it on the long dipstick with a yellow top. The dipstick with a metal loop pic where the new gear oil goes. Take your time. Do one at a time. If this works you'll probably end up drain/filling the diff again after a few miles (atleast I would).

You filled the DIFF!!!!!! The ATF is by the brake booster on the drivers side hidden by some hoses - where you check the ATF at - same hole. On the passenger side way down on the tranny is where the DIFF fluid goes. Now you need to drain that. It's supposed to be heavy oil in there (and probably non-detergent). Certainly not light high detergent ATF.

Wondered how the turbo diesel was doing. I drive a VW TDI everyday now. Actually I have 2 right now an auto that gets 40 mpg and a 5 speed that gets 50 mpg (that's for sale). I'm with those that can't wait to get a Subaru diesel with the torque, AWD, and longevity of the diesel. Emissions - well, sore subject. My VW exhaust STINKS since VW put a cat on it. I'd much rather smell regular diesel exhaust. By the time the diesel gets here I wonder how effective GM and Mopar will be with all the gov't and union involvement. I would suspect protectionist measures since I doubt our native vehicles will be competitive in 5-10 years. They will be designed with the interests of the gov't and unions rather than the consumer. I see "foreign cars" becoming the method to fill the gap of what customers really want even more than now. For the first time in over 25 years I'll actually evaluate a Ford for my next new vehicle (truck/van).

It's too late now but next time. Check the fluid while it's dirty and easy to read. Drain the fluid and measure it. Put the same qty of fresh ATF back in (clean ATF is MUCH harder to read). I'm thinking it's 3-4 quarts usually. Last one was overfilled several quarts so that one has me not remembering what is correct(between the Pella and then draining it I got 7 quarts!). But I think I added 3.5 quarts or so.

Tried it on an 06 Impreza today without success but it could be because when I got in the car she just HAD TO HAVE THE OTHER DOOR UNLOCKED she couldn't WAIT until I did the 30 second precedure. Anyone have a woman like that? How long did you keep her around? It's her car - I'm the one that doesn't wear the seatbelt and her son is too large for it to fit around. I didn't have the patience to try it again today. So I'd be curious on what years/models it works on.

You can loosen the gas cap. But you're gonna get fuel. Just place a rag under it to catch the fuel and a rag over it so it doen't spray in your face. After the new filter is installed cycle the key a few times (fuel pump runs) and you're good to go.

Poke around here. Here is an old link and I had others I'm not finding right now and don't have much time to look. If you strike out PM me sunday eve. I have it in a folder here on my laptop. I believe Nipper has in the past offerered some ossistance. http://www.onlinefreeebooks.net/automotive-machinery-power-equipment-ebooks/subaru/1999-subaru-legacy-service-manual-pdf.html

I start with the PB. Long shafted thin screw drivers from Sears (several now have bent ends). Work up the more regular screw drivers, then huge ones. I always try and get the drivers side to be the "lead". Since it's the most congested area and often that roll pin is the most stubborn. Anything involving a truck to seperate them isn't a good idea. Make sure the motor mount bolts are free of the cross memebr and TC bo9lts are out(if an auto). Cardboard infront of the rad/condensor.

One of my pet peeves is a useless location - I've brought this up often. There are a lot of good folks here who just may stop in to assist if they know where you are at. Or you may be able to stop by their place. I've had it happen to me and I've done it. Please put a useful location in your profile - not just a cute one that only locals would know. The second topic. This is the second time this week that someone wants parts sent priority. Funny thing is that I need a valid ADDRESS. Think about this when you're in a hurry. Anyone sending you parts needs your mail/shipping address. Folks loose a day like this all the time. If you're in a hurry it backs you up a day or costs you a lot more. Most folks aren't on the USMB all day long so by the time they get around to checking their PM's it's too late to get the part(s) out that day. Just a little venting. You gotta give a little more info before folks can help you. Almost as bad as posting asking for help with no specs - year, engine size, auto/manual, etc.

Gary, On the tilt. I don't see that working. I'm thinking it would have to be done from the top of the engine and don't see how to tilt the engine with the mounts, rad, condensor, etc and be able to clean the surface and make a good job of it. And probably all the same stuff would need disconnected as pulling the engine to be able to get much tilt. From underneath I'd think it darn near impossible to reach with the cross member and all. Just my thoughts. Anyone ever done this?

I shouldn't say because I haven't done it. But I believe that I could get a few local garages to do it in under 4 hours. Not that tricky but look for someone that knows Subaru's if possible. You gotta figure if you're starting the process is a good thing or a bad thing as far as them knowing what to do in what order, etc. Then you gotta find someone who will pickup on a job you already started. I don't know but I'd imagine that'll be tough due to legitimate reasons and possibly finger pointing if there are any issues. You may want to have exhaust parts ready for that flexjoint infront of the second cat.

Thats the plumbing and wireing I spoke of. Last week is the first time that I didn't pull the rad and just pulled the fans. You need to do a skill, committment, and time assessment like GG basically said. I work at my own pace (slow, emails, USMB, stock trading) and figure roughly 4 hours out, 4 hours in, 4 hours to work on the engine (HG's, seals, idlers, TB, etc.). I do most everything myself. Sometimes I'll have my dad come help with engine alignemnt, seperation, and have him start the car while I'm outside the car. But really I do all the work. I do have a cherry picker, engine stand, and a car lift. The lift is really because I have a bad knee but it does give some advantage on this job. Some folks claim to be real quick. I prefer to be thorough. Now it's been 2 weeks ago that a Suby tech helped me fix a bad crankshaft end. We were both used to working alone. We had the engine out in about an hour. Fixed crank(weld, grind, Dremel keyway, grabbed parts off 3 parts engines(harmonic balancer, crank bolt, oil pump, TB cover) , TB, idlers, seals, WP, Oil pump O ring, etc. A little Pizza, etc. Trip to parts store (exhaust gaskets and I forget what else) Reinstalled and running within 5 hours. He came at 10am and left before 3 but I didn't really keep track of how long it was taking us. But it was intense - definately not my usual speed. There are some excellent Endwrench articles on the whole process. And a link that I can't find from comcast.net skipnospam or something.

I've got used ones for 20 bucks plus shipping. Mostly Diamond brand. They rarely go bad (especially these Diamonds). But if you plan on keeping the car a good long time I'd probably buy a new one to have a firmer foundation in the future when accessing wires and plugs.

It's just one of those feel things. I'm guessing about 1/4" to 3/8" deflection with decent pressure applied with your fingers? If I think about it I'll look at one today. That's what I do on most cars and Suby's included. Perhaps on the tight side for most folks. Of all the alternator, PS piumps, AC compressors that I've ever replaced very few have been from bearing failure that may be able to be blamed on too tight of a belt.

GG, On the 99 Impreza that I had issues with the wires were hideing. They literally had to free up the fuse block. They were stuffed behind it. Dave

Just curious. If you redo the HG and hopefully use a Suby one tell us how different the torque procedure is. Personally I'd pull the engine again (should be much quicker this time) and do both HG's again. I mean if you already have trouble with one, I'd think the second one was suspect.

Pull the engine. It's no that hard and you can take advantage of it being out to do other major maintenance items. I've yet to pull a Suby tranny. A 14mm swivel socket is almost mandatory for those lower eng/trans nuts. Helps with AC lower bolts and other situations as well. Start spraying down the dowel pins for kicks. Other than plumbing and wireing it's mostly 4 (or 8 if 99) eng/trans bolts, 4 flexplate/TC bolts if an automatic, 2 front motor mounts, dogbone, to pull the engine.

They are tight. Sometimes I loosen up the PS pump to get the belt on. I tried a slightly longer belt and couldn't get it to tighten. I always install a little shorter belt on the AC compressor. Something about that adjuster almost being the whole way to the end that I don't like. I would think it should have some adjustment left. The alternators can be stubborn in the slide going the whole way down to get out of the way. But sometimes I swear it just can't be done. So I do the PS move.

I bought a long wanted tool this week. From Ebay a new MAC 1/4 air ratchet. The head is adjustable in 90 degree increments. NIB, manual, etc. I used one from a friend while working on a 95 LSi last week (I posted a thread about the chewed up harmonic balancer, etc.). First time I pulled the fans and not the radiator. This tool was made for that it seems - even tightening since it stops at 20 lbs. I found lots of other uses for it as well with it's slim design and low torque. Air tools - gotta love them.

Yep. Well worth the money. I'm "saving" mine a bit. I only use it when I need it - not for regular duty.